Topic: Best coil , caps and spark plugs combination.

[jarbas noronha]

     Hello. I am changing all the electrical parts from my honda CB750 1977. it was sitting for 18 years and I will take it to a very long journey ( from Alaska to Brasil ) . I would like to know what is the best combination of coils caps and spark plugs for a smooth and reliable long trip.
    Thanks

[TwoTired]

All the stock components in proper condition, will (and have) run thousands of miles for many decades.

Nearly all my bikes still use all stock components.

Why do you demand a change?

Cheers,

[Bankerdanny]

You definitely don't need to change just for the sake of change. Replacement parts are often not as good quality as the originals, especially when you are talking points and coils.

Test the resistance of the caps to make sure they are within spec (the specifics are in the repair manuals you can find here at the site). I would start with new spark plugs (NGK seems to be the preferred brand, but I have had trouble finding them so my bikes run Champion) and, if the plug caps test out fine, trim 1/4 inch off the end of each plug wire then just screw them back on. When I take long trips these days on bikes running points I bring spare points and condensers with me (spend the extra $$ for good quality Tec), where you are going I might even carry a single coil with lead lengths long enough to reach both the 1-4 and 2-3 plugs because vintage parts are already hard to find in the US and will be almost impossible in rural Canada and Central and South America.

[sixthwisconsin]

Quite an undertaking.
These guys just did it recently if you haven't seen this.
http://wheretheroadendsmoto.com

[Deltarider]

     Hello. I am changing all the electrical parts from my honda CB750 1977. .

Why?
Just bring extra plugs and plugcaps and avoid torrential rain. That's it.

[PeWe]

I should invest in a new complete point plate with new points and condensers. The old as spare if functional. If using NGK caps, 1 extra of each model since they can crack if a stone hit them. I cracked one when I checked the arc on an extra plug against valve cover and I dropped it with plug in against engine from max 10" height, probably less.

 Silicone caps might be more durable.
New chain with sprockets. Chain lube and lube it often. Long ride in rain will kill it if not lubing very often. Maybe every second tank refill.
New tires with fresh Michelin tubes.

Stock coils more reliable than Dyna where the HT- lead easy can slide out from its auto connection type if not strapped into the frame close to the coils.

New battery before that trip.
Good 20W-50 oil.

Ensure charging functionality.

 Add a voltage meter as I have which is great! You'll see how the charging system work and the time it takes to reach +14V after slow city riding and why battery must be fully charged when adjusting the voltage regulator.
I have it plugged into the green and black wiring inside headlamp. I intended to use it as a tool only when verifying the regulator, it sit there for good.

[jarbas noronha]

     This motorcycle was sitting in Alaska weather for 18 years. I bought it in 1995 ( with only 9000 mi) and  used until 2000. Last year I  started to work on it. Every rubber and plastic part were dried out and brakes, cables and lines stuck. Luckily the engine did not suffer and only one of the carburetors had rust damage to it. The idea was to have some easily replaceable parts on it.
   

[rotortiller]

jarbas noronha, Because a long trip usually means wet riding here is my take. Take it out for a good run in the rain and see if the coils/wires/caps break down and start missing. If it's a non event leave it be.

[jarbas noronha]

I should invest in a new complete point plate with new points and condensers. The old as spare if functional. If using NGK caps, 1 extra of each model since they can crack if a stone hit them. I cracked one when I checked the arc on an extra plug against valve cover and I dropped it with plug in against engine from max 10" height, probably less.

 Silicone caps might be more durable.
New chain with sprockets. Chain lube and lube it often. Long ride in rain will kill it if not lubing very often. Maybe every second tank refill.
New tires with fresh Michelin tubes.

Stock coils more reliable than Dyna where the HT- lead easy can slide out from its auto connection type if not strapped into the frame close to the coils.

New battery before that trip.
Good 20W-50 oil.

Ensure charging functionality.

 Add a voltage meter as I have which is great! You'll see how the charging system work and the time it takes to reach +14V after slow city riding and why battery must be fully charged when adjusting the voltage regulator.
I have it plugged into the green and black wiring inside headlamp. I intended to use it as a tool only when verifying the regulator, it sit there for good.

Thanks a lot. Where do I get these voltage regulators?

[Scott S]

 If ever a bike needed a Hondaman unit, this is a perfect example.
 I'm all about electronic ignition swaps. Ease of use and tuning....no contrast.
 But if they failed in the middle of the jungle (or tundra), you're screwed.
 With the Hondaman unit, swap a few wires around and you're back on (preferably brand new) points and condensers.

 And for your trip, the better question is "what spares should I carry?".

[rotortiller]

With that kind of reasoning only antique points driven bikes should be ridden under adverse conditions. I'd trust a modern ignition a lot further than a points fired machine.

I'm all about electronic ignition swaps. Ease of use and tuning....no contrast.
 But if they failed in the middle of the jungle (or tundra), you're screwed.

Excellent advice below.

And for your trip, the better question is "what spares should I carry?".