Author Topic: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not  (Read 841 times)

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Offline Fezzler

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My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« on: August 25, 2019, 08:36:05 PM »
I trued the rear rim before having tire installed and balanced.  It had about 2mm or less side-to-side which was fine before the tire and balance.

Well, I got her started and in gear (see Making Some Progress thread) but noticed a ton of wobble in the rear.

So now I'm going to try and true again with tire on.

I've re-watched a ton of how to videos.  So I find the highest point where my guide aligns with the rim and in areas with gap I tighten 4 spokes on left and loosen corresponding spokes on right?

I've done this before but I swear I had success by what felt like luck as I was chasing the true settings.

Any tips appreciated.

   
1975 Honda CB550f in parts in progress
1978 Honda CB550 Four K4
1971 Honda CB500 Four K0
2008 105th Anniversary Edition HD Road King
(Sold) 1998 Honda Shadow ACE Deluxe VT750
1973 Schwinn Stingray (Blue Deluxe - RIP Jack and Rose)

Offline PeWe

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Re: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2019, 09:53:09 PM »
Rotate the wheel on the stand. Use a marker pen you hold and slowly move closer to rim side until it hits. You need something that support your hand.
When done you'll see where pen made marks. Release spokes a little, those spokes that pull rim to the marker side and tighten the other.
I guess the rim on other side of hub need the same but opposite if it is straight and not bent.

Clean pen marks and do it again
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline Fezzler

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Re: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2019, 08:27:54 PM »
Thanks.

I gave this a go tonight and got it real close to 100% true.  Now, I've experienced chasing perfect I end up chasing a 100% true rim.

Is any amount of side-to-side safe and acceptable?  Right now I have it dialed in to only the width of a credit card in a few spots.  This will be a low mileage Sunday rider.
Some PB Blaster helped loosen up tight nipples.

 


Rotate the wheel on the stand. Use a marker pen you hold and slowly move closer to rim side until it hits. You need something that support your hand.
When done you'll see where pen made marks. Release spokes a little, those spokes that pull rim to the marker side and tighten the other.
I guess the rim on other side of hub need the same but opposite if it is straight and not bent.

Clean pen marks and do it again
1975 Honda CB550f in parts in progress
1978 Honda CB550 Four K4
1971 Honda CB500 Four K0
2008 105th Anniversary Edition HD Road King
(Sold) 1998 Honda Shadow ACE Deluxe VT750
1973 Schwinn Stingray (Blue Deluxe - RIP Jack and Rose)

Offline Don R

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Re: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2019, 08:58:27 PM »
 There is often a lump at the weld. I've had good luck whacking it with a plastic mallet. I did it on a rolled rim once and then couldn't believe I just did that. It did what was needed with no ding at all.
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Offline PeWe

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Re: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2019, 11:39:03 PM »
I have also seen a bump where the rim is welded. I saw that with dial indicator hooked up.
That bump was the rim outside only not affecting the tire. I got same number about 4" after the weld as 4" before so I knew it was nothing to adjust with spokes. I measured at the inside surface too if I remember right.
The D.I.D. rims should be better welded.

The weld area were grinded very rough before chrome. I grinded down the sharp edges and covered it up filling the sharp grind grooves with the paint I had, engine paint alu color. This was the inside surface where tube is located only.
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline bryanj

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Re: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« Reply #5 on: August 27, 2019, 05:03:36 AM »
Honda tollereance is 3mm up and down or 3mm side to side
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Offline Fezzler

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Re: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2019, 08:39:54 AM »
I may be good then.  I may fine tune with little adjustments so I don't loose my progress.

Has anyone else experienced that?  You have it very close to true, but in an effort to get it perfect you reintroduce wobble and end up chasing it around the wheel?  Am I nuts?

Honda tollereance is 3mm up and down or 3mm side to side
1975 Honda CB550f in parts in progress
1978 Honda CB550 Four K4
1971 Honda CB500 Four K0
2008 105th Anniversary Edition HD Road King
(Sold) 1998 Honda Shadow ACE Deluxe VT750
1973 Schwinn Stingray (Blue Deluxe - RIP Jack and Rose)

Offline 754

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Re: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2019, 08:57:42 AM »
First check that tire is seated.

3mm sounds like a lot...I always thought  .030 thou  1/32 of an inch, 3/4 of a millimeter        1 mm tops.
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Offline Tracksnblades1

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Re: My aim is true but my rear wheel is not
« Reply #8 on: August 27, 2019, 11:04:53 AM »
Sometimes one has to accept within specs...?

I generally do not like average, but at times struggled for that..?

My old M70 in 7mm mag will send them true. First two side by side @300.
3rd was after a one click down Elev.

After $6.00 of brass it’s close enough for its  gun safe duties.

Good luck with your wheel.
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