Topic: timing chain symptoms of too tight, the 400f

[Redline it]

cam chain adj question: how do i do it without it ratting after doing it?

[Bodi]

"make a long story short"...??
TL:DR - sorry.
Seems like a question on cam chain tension. With engine running, loosen until it rattles. Tighten until it JUST stops rattling then lock in place.

[Redline it]

"make a long story short"...??
TL:DR - sorry.
Seems like a question on cam chain tension. With engine running, loosen until it rattles. Tighten until it JUST stops rattling then lock in place.

10/4. tl:dr? you missed the best parts. i try to be clear on details in case some new guy, unless i'm only one, runs across the finer points that are always left out by guys that know more about working on them, the main point  was, "not to loosen the adjuster push rod lock bolt when the cam is off." and that was directly related to one of the masters here said to leave preload on it while top end is off. i didn't know what he was saying so i asked and never got the answer. i figured it out, thought i blew a hole in a case it snapped out so hard. thanks for your details here for sure. TTYL.

[Bodi]

You don't want to loosen the adjuster lock when the chain is slack (ie cam out), it isn't the end of the world but the tensioner will be snapped to "full tight" by the springs. You can push down on the bottom blade mount at the rear of the barrels to go back "slack" then lock the adjuster again. This is a good idea when replacing the blades - new ones will be thicker, making the chain pretty tight - and hard/impossible to get installed on the cam sprocket - if you don't back off the tensioner.

[Redline it]

You don't want to loosen the adjuster lock when the chain is slack (ie cam out), it isn't the end of the world but the tensioner will be snapped to "full tight" by the springs. You can push down on the bottom blade mount at the rear of the barrels to go back "slack" then lock the adjuster again. This is a good idea when replacing the blades - new ones will be thicker, making the chain pretty tight - and hard/impossible to get installed on the cam sprocket - if you don't back off the tensioner.

sure would of been nice to have seen a message like this before it happened, i knew the horseshoe was working, and when the bolt was loosened there was some power behind that spring. i seen somewhere online putting the crank in a certain spot and pushing the tensioner in to just above the cover gasket level. there was measurement like a 1/16th or something,  i can't find it again. no manual gives a description except from spit cases stage putting the pushbar in.