Topic: R6 Internal Fork Lowering (2002 conventional forks)

[DaveBarbier]

Been researching lowering forks and I thought I knew what I was going to do but these R6 forks are different than the ones in the videos I’ve been watching. Apparently normally you cut the spring to the desired length and then add a spacer on the damper rod. Can anyone shed some light on what I’d need to do to my forks to lower it 3/4”? Using my photo you can use the inch graduations to refer to. Any help would be appreciated!

[DaveBarbier]

Bump. I think I have an idea. I believe I would cut the main big spring down to length and then add a spacer of that same length below the smaller spring on the right.

[seanbarney41]

Yeah, I think you are right.  I am curious why you want to lower.  Are the r6 forks longer than the cb550?

[DaveBarbier]

Yeah, I think you are right.  I am curious why you want to lower.  Are the r6 forks longer than the cb550?

Yeah, the generation of forks I got are about 1” longer. Plus, I milled my top triple to lower it closer to the steering neck. I’m using custom triples and the top triple is a little thick. Thanks for the help and further confirmation. I could get springs and spacers from RaceTech but it’s money I don’t think I need to spend.

[seanbarney41]

Don't forget!  Cutting spring WILL change the spring rate.  If I remember right, it will lower the spring rate.  How much?  I dunno.  And please confirm all that i have posted here.  I have not tried this stuff, only read about it.  And I have trouble keeping everything correct upstairs until I have had first hand experience.  I guess it is not a big deal to try cutting, and if the results are unsatisfactory,  give race tech a call

[RAFster122s]

Dave,
What year of conventional forks did you get? The FZ06 that used the R6 forks used a top triple with a conventional handlebar. That adds some unique twist for using an R6 design forks on a resto-mod. I am going that route with mine as I cannot do the forward lean due to neck issues and moderate carpal tunnel. I am planning on staying with a 19” front wheel.

I too am curious why you are lowering the forks...are you running 18” front and rear wheels If I recall correctly from your build thread that is the case...
Even with the top triple change, then I presume it is altering your rake and trail numbers enough to warrant the shortening efforts you are going to...
Care to enlighten us with why you are doing this... just trying to get my head wrapped around it to understand it better.

David

[DaveBarbier]

Thanks Sean, and yes I’ll definitely confirm before cutting things

David, I have custom triples that kept me the CB550 factory rake and trail from Cognito Moto. They have good stuff, but my only gripe is that the triples themselves are very thick. No doubt they might need the thickness for strength...? Although the original 550 top triple is not 6061 aluminum and much thinner so maybe the Cognito triples are overkill. I suspect they’re this thick in order to use the fork fastening method they came up with.

Anyway, the R6 forks are slightly longer than the 550 forks but with the thicker triple they were flush on top. There was an aesthetic disconnect between the top of the tank line vs the top of the triple clamp. The triple clamp was very proud of the tank line. I milled a pocket in the triple clamp that lowered it about 1” (giving it a nicer look) exposing the top of the fork tubes. I want to shorten the fork tubes to bring them back to flush with the triple. Rake, trail, offset; all that stays the same. That’s where I am now

So it’s either call Mike at RaceTech and spend a couple hundred bucks or do some internet poking and spend no money. As far as spring rate, I weigh ~145lbs and even the softest setting on the forks are too stiff for me. I think after this mod I might end up getting softer fork springs and doing the cutting again. There are also very good tutorials online for setting up forks for your weight. I’ll be doing that too.

Thanks guys!