Author Topic: Late CB750 K0 Mold to Gold, the nugget. (Read 37378 times)

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #275 on:** May 27, 2021, 06:52:47 PM »

I just bought a new pair of RaceQuip boots and they are really nice and priced right. Made in Romania. When I was club racing (two or three track sessions a day, on a crowded schedule) the gear came off between track times. Boots and gloves lasted for 10 years.

At the Endurance races, we stay fully dressed for pit stops (driver changes and refuelling every 90-120 minutes). Spending all day in the boots and sometimes 3 hours/day “pounding the pedals” destroyed my last pair in two seasons! No complaints. Wearing out race gear means I’m still alive. Love it.

Don R · « **Reply #276 on:** May 28, 2021, 02:59:34 PM »

These may be 10 years old, I can't really say. I don't think they have an expiration date like the rest of her gear. The last time I drove I took her gear to tech and drove with my almost new, but no sfi# suit. Stock car stuff.

Don R · « **Reply #277 on:** May 29, 2021, 07:55:15 PM »

Words of wisdom. If you hand mount your own tire just use the old tube because you'll probably just pinch it anyway. It's been a long time since I ruined a tube, I think it wadded up near the stem and tore it's self. I added air and let it deflate several times the stem still wants to be on an angle.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #278 on:** May 29, 2021, 08:28:11 PM »

Don....so annoying! I usually inflate slightly and then deflate, before popping the second sidewall over, so I can see how the tube is laying. Doesn’t always work either!!

Don R · « **Reply #279 on:** May 31, 2021, 09:21:21 AM »

The tire delay has changed my plan, now it's just re-assemble and get it rideable. I cleaned the carbs last year and drained them, I can swap from the pods to the stock jets and airbox any time later. I am also curious how good it can possibly run with the pods on it. My time riding in the pits at the drag strip, it seemed to run pretty well.
I have way too many projects and want this one off the list (and lift) for summer.

Don R · « **Reply #280 on:** May 31, 2021, 06:55:29 PM »

Tire and wheel on, shop cleaned up, (sort of) The tail light comes on with the key. I remember a black to brown jumper in the headlight bucket, that may be incorrect. I can also try a different switch or replace the right control with some gently used parts I got at the Davenport swap meet. I'm a gas tank away from a start-up.
A friend came by with pics of a nice looking green k1 or k2 and a harley inspired 750 mashup. I got a phone number. Also got a call from a buyer looking for some flippers.

Don R · « **Reply #281 on:** June 02, 2021, 01:58:52 PM »

Starts and runs, hardly wants choke, still has the pods and non stock jetting. Carbs one and two both leak. Of course. I had drained them of a no alcohol gas with seafoam mix after test riding a year ago, they do not care.
The bowls have a mish mash of drain plugs, I'll replace them with a set of new ones I have in the parts box. That may free up a small one for another set of carbs that need a smaller one.

Don R · « **Reply #282 on:** June 05, 2021, 10:09:30 PM »

https://photos.app.goo.gl/b4gFMEJdbFkqZTDv5

I got the Honda family out for some exercise, an inlaw photobombed it. The gold 70 is still on the lift

RAFster122s · « **Reply #283 on:** June 05, 2021, 10:41:57 PM »

Nice line up Don...

Don R · « **Reply #284 on:** June 07, 2021, 09:45:21 AM »

It's almost shocking how little $$ I have in all of these bikes. Only one was over a thousand. The Vetter gl1000 was a hundred, really a gift from a guy that wanted it to have a good home. I had offered to repair broken sidecover tabs for free and he said, just come get it.

Don R · « **Reply #285 on:** June 07, 2021, 04:25:45 PM »

I rode the Gold one today it runs a little rough and shows signs of the cylinders being off at some point. It has a shellac type sealer near the gaskets edges. I left the pods on for a test ride and will be removing them shortly. Timing and dwell are proper, I replaced the #3 plug and all 4 are firing but not great.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PWSE8ZotYEH7xCPC7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jY5ANu6MxsrQcyUW9

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #286 on:** June 07, 2021, 05:04:43 PM »

Sure looks good! I’m thinking my K1 May become GOLD. Too many red ones!

Don R · « **Reply #287 on:** June 08, 2021, 08:27:30 PM »

Thanks, the paint is the best part. It's not a sweet runner. I suspect the airbox fell apart and it hasn't been right since then. Timing, dwell and advance are good, new caps, recent plugs that are black. It's time to abandon the pods. They were just an experiment anyway, it does have 2 filters in the fuel lines, they gotta go first.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #288 on:** June 08, 2021, 10:49:51 PM »

I replied to your FB post Don, but I'll post again here, if your K0 doesn't like the choke, then it's running too rich. The pods if anything would make it run lean, so check your main jet sizes and needle positions. As you know from reading my K0 build thread, mine's running rich now after installing the slide top seals that were missing when that Ebay carb "Expert" supposedly rebuilt them without installing the seals, so I'd lifted the needles a notch, and now of course that I've sealed (pardon the pun) the slides, it's running rich.

I was meaning to pop the slides out and drop the needles a notch, but I started working on the K2, rebuilt the engine and gave it a cosmetic makeover, then started rebuilding the Suzuki T350 and somewhere in between started building the 849 engine for Dion's K2, and I haven't gotten back to the K0. I better dump the fuel out as I haven't ridden it for a few months now.

Don R · « **Reply #289 on:** June 09, 2021, 07:36:42 AM »

Thanks for the info Terry. I've been in the carbs and was hoping I'd have a proven set of jets/pods to set aside for another day. I remember it running better at the drag strip a couple years ago though. The paint set came with a new airbox so it was always the plan to go stock.
When I checked the dwell I remembered doing the ignition tune-up, no noticeable sparking at the points. I used an old points file and polished them with coarse paper. An oil change is in order and now that I've noticed the gasket sealer painted around the base of the cylinder and rocker cover I am curious and afraid what wonders await inside! I might have to pick up a camera and have a look in there.
I'm trying to remember the name of that dark brown sealer that came in a glass bottle with a brush in the cap. I don't think it is permatex, it looks like it went on thinner.

Don R · « **Reply #290 on:** June 09, 2021, 12:36:51 PM »

Tight seal and Indian head shellac was what I was trying to remember, permatex avaition seems to be the survivor.
Break time report, the jets are stock now, it idles awesome already, too much (1/8 turn) slack in the 4-1 cable as before, and out of adjustment on the cable up on top. I just got the new velocity stacks on the new airbox and am heading out with a beer to put the top on followed by the bottom. I saved two sweet 8 head flange bolts for the airbox. Not sure if they are correct but should be.
Something on the short chain guard rubs the chain on occasion, sounds like a bull frog.

Don R · « **Reply #291 on:** June 10, 2021, 12:24:10 PM »

As I was looking at putting the airbox on I realized the carbs are drooping and 3 of 4 air vent hoses have gone missing. Time to shop the parts bin. The new velocity stacks slipped right on the carbs, I just could not line up the airbox to tab bolts.

Don R · « **Reply #292 on:** June 10, 2021, 05:57:00 PM »

I got all of the intake clamps polished and tuned up with good screws and anti seize. Rolled the carb intake rubbers with my Dad's big old wood handle screwdriver and channel locks. I got the air box on, rolled the rubbers back to where they were. ?? and it's mostly sealed up.
I must have used my bulk purchase of gas line up, and I think the carb plate may be upside down, there are notches at the bottom. Maybe where the fuel line goes through? I could look at another bike I guess. I want the inline filters gone so I'll get fuel line before putting the tank back on.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #293 on:** June 11, 2021, 03:28:19 AM »

Because I'm such a helpful feller Don, I raced outside and checked my spare set and there are notches on the bottom like yours, so I don't think your plate is upside down.

K0 carb plate by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

Don R · « **Reply #294 on:** June 11, 2021, 08:31:41 AM »

Thanks Terry, sometimes I just think too much. I got a few feet of proper Honda gas hose ordered, until then I'll put it back as is because I can't wait a week. I re-checked the ignition specs and valves because I don't keep a chart of which bikes I've done the 3,000 mile service to when they get here. I did adjust #2 ex. probably because the switch is in the way and I wasn't confident it was right.
I hope it runs better today, it certainly idles better and still starts easily.

I bagged the big jets and will clean the pod filters and bag them too. I remember this bike running better two years ago so maybe the carbs just needed another cleaning. I wasn't willing to invest the time to see right now.

Don R · « **Reply #295 on:** June 12, 2021, 01:11:00 PM »

The pic that took 10 years to set up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ux8fPL6ri9BdA8HG7

It runs WAY better, the idle hangs when it gets warmed up though. The airbox makes a Waaaaaahhhh sound like my firebird's quadrajet with the air cleaner lid flipped. It still needs the 4-4's though, I was waiting to see if no number pipes become available so the reproduction 341's I have can go on my brother's K4.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Psu1HMZhzJQCYvL6A

754 · « **Reply #296 on:** June 12, 2021, 03:48:37 PM »

Hey, if the valve stem is cocked DONT run it, Break the bead, and rotate tire to straighten.
That is why I never tighten the nut on the valves stem, I usually run two nuts, jammed together about 1/4 inch above. That way uf tite turns in rim you may have some warning.... better than only finding out after its gone flat..

Don R · « **Reply #297 on:** June 12, 2021, 04:58:30 PM »

Thanks Frank I did just that. The light weight mark was off so I put that next to the stem too. I got 'er up to 55 in a 40 zone, I plan to try again on the highway now that it's cooler. I'm thinking it's got a slide hanging or vacuum leak in the top of a carb.
It died a 1/4 mile away, re-started and ran rough, the choke was part way closed. It cleaned out by the time I got home and seemed to be on 4 again. More riding today.
We took the lowers off the gl1000, it rides cooler that way. Other projects are calling.

It runs like a cb750 should but no comparison to either big bore 750's I've ridden. Maybe the sealer I see is from a nickel washer / head gasket repair. The cutch still drags a bit, I'll adjust the lifter. I was thinking it was just sticky from sitting. It has 15/50 Rotella oil but is due for a flush out change. The clutch lever effort is significantly higher than the green bike that has new cables on it.

Don R · « **Reply #298 on:** June 14, 2021, 09:07:24 AM »

Shellac style sealer pic.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pysLLyq2eVWvzZiX7

Don R · « **Reply #299 on:** June 14, 2021, 07:31:55 PM »

I got a 3' piece of 5.5mm fuel line. It seems 19 and 35 cm may be the correct lengths.

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Author Topic: Late CB750 K0 Mold to Gold, the nugget. (Read 37378 times)