Author Topic: Bike from scrapyard Saudi (Read 22604 times)

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #25 on:** January 23, 2021, 04:39:33 PM »

What “electric speedo” did you use?

Gamma · « **Reply #26 on:** January 24, 2021, 12:15:30 AM »

Quote from: BenelliSEI on January 23, 2021, 04:39:33 PM

What “electric speedo” did you use?

It’s a KOSO like the taco. I made this alloy support for a tachometer and speedo and volt meter. Also the usual lights

Gamma · « **Reply #27 on:** January 24, 2021, 12:17:23 AM »

More on the engine.
I installed a new set of points for initial running, but have bought a Dyna S for later.
Had the same trouble as many others with setting the points up

PeWe · « **Reply #28 on:** January 24, 2021, 01:03:59 AM »

Those grommets work really fine! My K2 build got them. I have another carb set in parts waiting to be assembled.

I have given some sets to friends and also spread the info on the forum.
Look almost as stock with very good fit. I lubed them after install.
First with thin oil, later with silicone grease to help throttle return.
I replaced the way too hard stock spring with a softer Webike Japan sell. Not cheap, but throttle works much easier.

Gamma · « **Reply #29 on:** January 24, 2021, 03:08:20 AM »

That’s great news about those grommets. My set of carbs are still in the box after I rebuilt them. I have a set of CR29’s for my project bike.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #30 on:** January 24, 2021, 08:38:54 AM »

Great project.
I missed the part about the throttle return spring, where does it come from?

Stev-o · « **Reply #31 on:** January 24, 2021, 08:53:03 AM »

The twin disc setup is a work of art!

gsb · « **Reply #32 on:** January 24, 2021, 08:55:55 AM »

Very clean build Gamma! I have seen you have use allen bolts for motor rebuild -also for cases .Are they V2A or zinc plated?What grade bolts are you used ?
gsb

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #33 on:** January 24, 2021, 08:59:59 AM »

Quote from: Gamma on January 24, 2021, 03:08:20 AM

That’s great news about those grommets. My set of carbs are still in the box after I rebuilt them. I have a set of CR29’s for my project bike.

If you need the carb top rubber seals (sort of push in “0” ring) I have a box of +100, for postage.

Gamma · « **Reply #34 on:** January 24, 2021, 10:03:53 AM »

Quote from: gsb on January 24, 2021, 08:55:55 AM

Very clean build Gamma! I have seen you have use allen bolts for motor rebuild -also for cases .Are they V2A or zinc plated?What grade bolts are you used ?
gsb

I used stainless steel Allen bolts for the cases
I also blanked off the Tacho drive on the cam cover with an alloy plug and also blanked off the starter motor
I’m now not sure if removing the starter motor was a good idea.
More about that in a later issue😀

PeWe · « **Reply #35 on:** January 24, 2021, 12:13:55 PM »

Those grommets for carb top seals Gamma recommended in another thread 2017 still available.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/1672987145

Softer throttle spring for stock carbs, expensive. Must be possible to find at a hardware store selling that type of springs.

https://www.japan-webike.se/products/21727211.html

gsb · « **Reply #36 on:** January 24, 2021, 01:45:31 PM »

Hi,
Thanks Gamma for Info about bolts.
gsb

Gamma · « **Reply #37 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:21:24 PM »

Thanks for the complement Stev-o. I had plenty of spare time in Saudi when not at work.
I was using the F1 frame but I didn’t want a rear brake disc. So I polished the K7 hub and striped the K7 swinging arm. Because the geometry of the K7 hub and its 630 sprocket will not align correctly with the front 530 sprocket of the F1 engine, you have to remove 10mm from the face of the hub where the sprocket mounts, (I’m writing this from memory). So I removed the sprocket studs from the hub (double nut method) and bolted the sprocket to the inside, Cush drive side, of the hub. This allowed my mate to machine 10mm from the stud side by using the sprocket to hold it in the lathe
I then drilled the stud holes deeper, tapped them and re-installed the studs.

Gamma · « **Reply #38 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:22:21 PM »

Rear hub ready for machining

Gamma · « **Reply #39 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:24:17 PM »

Replaced bearings and re-installed studs

Gamma · « **Reply #40 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:28:43 PM »

Need to drill and tap stud holes 10mm deeper
I do hope it all lines up ok

Gamma · « **Reply #41 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:30:48 PM »

Polished brake holder

Gamma · « **Reply #42 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:36:05 PM »

I wanted a cable operated rear brake, so used a Suzuki GT750 one. And ended up with the operating lever at the top and a cable stop on the swinging arm. This will mean a chain adjust will also require a quick brake adjust

Gamma · « **Reply #43 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:37:17 PM »

Cable operated rear brake

Gamma · « **Reply #44 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:38:55 PM »

I made a chain guard at work

Gamma · « **Reply #45 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:44:44 PM »

On my old F1 that was stolen I had RAASK rear sets, they were ok, but this time I bought Tarozzi ones.
The alignment did not look right, they appeared to put your left and right feet in different positions, so I made a mounting bracket for the right hand side at work out of aluminium

Gamma · « **Reply #46 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:45:47 PM »

RH rear set mount

Gamma · « **Reply #47 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:46:33 PM »

RH rear set mount

Gamma · « **Reply #48 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:48:39 PM »

The LH side I added an additional support. The idea I got from Mike Rieck I think

Gamma · « **Reply #49 on:** January 24, 2021, 02:52:26 PM »

RH mount

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Author Topic: Bike from scrapyard Saudi (Read 22604 times)