Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 47458 times)

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #750 on:** February 10, 2022, 03:01:15 AM »

Ha ha, that sounds like Trevor in Warragul's hydraulic press that he bought in Melbourne, to be delivered 60 miles to his place. It went to Sydney, then back to his place.......

I just checked the tracking on my cams, they were sent from Terry in in England on Tuesday night our time, they're now in Melbourne! Woohoo! I hope they get delivered tomorrow, UPS, not Aussie Post, so with luck "3 Day Priority shipping" will actually happen, woohoo!

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #751 on:** February 20, 2022, 05:56:07 AM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on February 09, 2022, 07:02:35 AM

I'm hoping for the best, it may just be that snail mail is slower than snails.

Frustrating! Hopefully shows up soon.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #752 on:** February 20, 2022, 07:44:40 AM »

The labels and stickers have not arrived, I'm assuming that by now they would have, oh well.
I still don't have the tank and body stuff back.
In the mean time I'm working on a large home project and I've decided that when I return to the Z1 I will take the engine back apart to satisfy myself there are no oil delivery issues that I missed. Lots of work but I don't see any other way to quell my worried mind. In short, I'm not convinced I know what went wrong.

PeWe · « **Reply #753 on:** February 20, 2022, 08:49:11 AM »

I understand your worried mind.
I have redone things when I think I have missed something. Not long time ago valve cover was just assembled when I got thoughts about o-rings under cam holders. Only one way forward to get piece in my mind. Redo it. When lifting the cam holders for a look, 2 knock pins were close to jump into the cam chain tunnel

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #754 on:** February 20, 2022, 12:48:59 PM »

I know the feeling Steve, I assembled my Z1B engine from random parts that I bought on Ebay, using the parts manual to tell me what I needed, so it was a “heart in the mouth” situation first time I fired it up 2 years after I’d built it.

It didn’t blow up, which was a good thing and when I took my cam cover off to swap out my cams on the weekend it was good to see oil where oil had never been before. Better to do it twice than ruin it.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #755 on:** February 20, 2022, 04:16:13 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on February 20, 2022, 07:44:40 AM

The labels and stickers have not arrived, I'm assuming that by now they would have, oh well.
I still don't have the tank and body stuff back.
In the mean time I'm working on a large home project and I've decided that when I return to the Z1 I will take the engine back apart to satisfy myself there are no oil delivery issues that I missed. Lots of work but I don't see any other way to quell my worried mind. In short, I'm not convinced I know what went wrong.

Check.... You’ll sleep better!

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #756 on:** March 10, 2022, 04:09:30 PM »

Steve.... still waiting for stuff?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #757 on:** March 11, 2022, 01:15:28 AM »

Did you get your stuff from John Clifton Steve? I sent him a message on Sunday saying I needed a tach drive for my 1428cc engine for my next Kawasaki build, he messaged me back that he'd sell me one for $40 ($30 USD) including postage, I sent him the dough, and received the part on Wednesday.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #758 on:** March 11, 2022, 07:18:44 AM »

We've been emailing back and forth. Nothing has arrived yet, still waiting to see if it shows up.
I have not been able to get back to it yet and the tank isn't done so no worries.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #759 on:** May 16, 2022, 07:08:41 PM »

John refunded me and then he found that they had somehow gotten stuck in customs in Oz. I’m trying to buy another set but for some reason I’m not seeing him on PayPall, we’ve not communicated recently, I’ll keep trying.
In other news
After a foray into a pretty large home project, (tear out front yard, get lava rock wall built, do a lot of wood work) I’m back to the Z1.
The failed intake cam bearings, twice, really has spooked me. I removed the engine, split the cases and I’m looking for a reason. I thought the culprit may have been “pc 30”, the o ring type seal between the cases and between the oil pump and the lower case. Had to split the cases to see the one between the cases. Both are intact. I’ve included a photo of the one between the cases. I’ll now have to go through every aspect of oil delivery checking the pump dimensions (again), passages, cam bearing clearances, etc. when I finally reassemble I’ll need to somehow try to recreate oil flow to the head without running it. I want to see flow up there.
Needless to say, it would be easier if I found some obvious screw up, I’d be mad at myself but at least I’d have a reason. This is very frustrating, I’m not accustomed to this type of thing. It’s a simple oil system.
If I can’t find a way to fix it I’ll have to part it out and lose a lot of cash.
Tank and body work still at paint shop on Oahu, waiting for paint, repairs are complete. Slow process.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #760 on:** May 17, 2022, 01:38:20 AM »

Geez that sucks Steve, put it back together after you've checked everything and it'll be fine. I had a problem recently with the little truck I bought started blowing huge clouds of smoke when at the shop for a "Roadworthy Inspection", and so I took it home, scratched my chin, did a Youtube search and found that it's a fairly common issue with EFI cars where an injector fails and dribbles raw gas into one cylinder causing a huge plume of smoke that the "Keyboard mechanics" will (incorrectly) diagnose as anything from bad rings to a blown head gasket.

I bought new injectors and new plugs, spent two hours twirling spanners and it's all good now. I was a bit concerned that I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with the injectors that I replaced, but once the smoke from the first start up after I put it back together (leftover from the fuel sitting in the exhaust system) cleared, it was all good. Some times you'll never find an obvious problem, so just clean everything immaculately, put it together with extra care, and it'll be fine.

As an aside, the mail man just dropped off a set of 1973 Z1 engine cases and all of the 1973 outer covers, that I paid a fortune for in a booze fuelled Ebay bidding war in the US a few months ago, and then paid another 1000 bucks to get it out here. I still don't know why I bought it, but I may as well build an engine out of it, so if you come across a cylinder block and head for a '73 engine, let me know?

ken65 · « **Reply #761 on:** May 17, 2022, 02:07:07 AM »

HeHE, #$%* stirrer Terence. Love it.

Alan F. · « **Reply #762 on:** May 17, 2022, 04:36:43 AM »

Stir like it's God's work Terry!

MauiK3 · « **Reply #763 on:** May 17, 2022, 08:22:30 PM »

I rechecked the oil pump dimensions today, the gears have a tight 0.0025” to 0.003” inch clearance to the body, service limit is 0.004”.
I also back flushed the oil passages in the head to the stud holes, everything flows well.
Moving on.

PeWe · « **Reply #764 on:** May 17, 2022, 10:04:27 PM »

Oil pump has got the air lock fix?
Drill a small hole... see page 92 (p 6 too) where various oil pump related issues are described.
good reading for all kind of info if you have not seen this.

https://www.z-club-germany.de/10-Download/Extern/0003%20Kawasaki/1972%20-%201981%20Service%20Bulletins.pdf

MauiK3 · « **Reply #765 on:** May 18, 2022, 07:50:01 AM »

Great info, thank you
I love this forum

MauiK3 · « **Reply #766 on:** May 18, 2022, 02:59:24 PM »

Just verified my oil pressure switch has the unobstructed hole, which is one of the three fixes for air release from the oil pump. I’m working my way through the engine looking at oil passages and using air to help detect any blockages. Nothing wrong so far. If there isn’t anything to find, I’m going to strip the head and install the cams and bearings to see I’d there is anything wrong there.

ekpent · « **Reply #767 on:** May 18, 2022, 03:04:13 PM »

That's some good info Per posted up, got that bookmarked for future reference. Good luck getting it sorted out.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #768 on:** May 19, 2022, 07:50:23 AM »

I am not finding anything in the oil system that concerns me. I did however find something yesterday.
I removed the valves and springs.
I set good bearings in the saddles, set the cams in with some lube, lightly set the caps on and lightly torqued them, just enough to seat the caps.
The intake cam locked up, the exhaust cam turns, if a bit tightly.
I could loosen everything, rotate the intake cam a bit and re-tighten but it still locks up. Since I have two sets of now unusable cams I tried the other intake cam, it locked up too.
The head was not assembled on the cylinders and cases so the definitive test would be to assemble the cylinders and head and torque it down and do the whole thing again, which I may do but I think I have the unfortunate luck of having a bent camshaft. I tried to check it using a lash up with my wheel truing stand but it was too crude. I will need to buy some V Blocks to get a better setup to check the next cam set.
I will flip the engine right side up and try this again with the cylinders and everything torqued up.

craz1 · « **Reply #769 on:** May 19, 2022, 08:55:10 AM »

Highly unlikely you have a bent cam, but yes check it with v blocks. If I were you I would bolt everything up without valves and check with plastigage. You should be able to Do this with the head by itself. Just to be sure you could bolt everything up and recheck with plastigage. One question I would have is to make sure those cam caps are in the correct position. Also do you know if those are the original cam caps or did you purchase separately or did the previous owner purchase a different set of caps. They are a machined set.. You could also use a straight edge across the area of the head where the caps bolt to and see if you have any issues there. If that cam locks up either off the bike or while you have everything bolted up and torqued (without valves) I would not use that head.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #770 on:** May 19, 2022, 11:49:51 AM »

Quote from: craz1 on May 19, 2022, 08:55:10 AM

Highly unlikely you have a bent cam, but yes check it with v blocks. If I were you I would bolt everything up without valves and check with plastigage. You should be able to Do this with the head by itself. Just to be sure you could bolt everything up and recheck with plastigage. One question I would have is to make sure those cam caps are in the correct position. Also do you know if those are the original cam caps or did you purchase separately or did the previous owner purchase a different set of caps. They are a machined set.. You could also use a straight edge across the area of the head where the caps bolt to and see if you have any issues there. If that cam locks up either off the bike or while you have everything bolted up and torqued (without valves) I would not use that head.

Thanks,great information.

Steve,are the cams you're installing NOS ?

ekpent · « **Reply #771 on:** May 19, 2022, 01:15:54 PM »

A good friend of mine got a lead once on some Z1 parts talking to a guy and we followed him home for a look. He bought some parts but wouldn't buy the head because there were no original cam caps and mentioned to me they must come as a matched package or its a boat anchor.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #772 on:** May 19, 2022, 02:12:18 PM »

I’m pretty sure they are original. I checked them today and they seem to line up. I checked the head with a pretty good straight edge I have and it looks good, could not pass a 0.0015” feeler gauge under it anywhere. I’m ordering v-blocks and I’ll do that check too. In the mean time I’m going to stare at it some more to see if I can come up with any other ideas. I’ll do plastigauge checks too. It just seems the cam should turn nicely when assembled with lube and no valves.

craz1 · « **Reply #773 on:** May 19, 2022, 04:56:06 PM »

Yes that cam should turn freely. You could also take some Dykem blue and brush on the lower journal first and rotate the cam(once you check runout) and check for irregular wear, or marks on all the journals, then with the caps. I would slowly tighten them until biding occurs while rotating. That should show any area that was binding.
There is no way you could visibly see the alignment with you eye. You are going to have to resort to the methods above.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #774 on:** May 20, 2022, 08:01:16 AM »

Yes, I did a blue check yesterday, I need to do it again now that I think I know what to look for. It looks like a few are pinching at the split. I'll need to analyze this to see why.
I re-set up my truing stand and checked the cams and they are straight. The setup works fairly well I decided.

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Author Topic: Maui Z1 1973 (Read 47458 times)

ken65