Topic: What shocks are you using? CB750

[Scott]

Far out, great news.

I left the shock upright clamped in the vice over night, but in the morning it was the same.  It went almost all of the way compressed before any resistance.

So this morning with cup of tea in hand and shock still clamped in vice I worked it up and down in that very small stroke that had resistance and after 3 or 4 minutes it started to "suck the oil up" and get better and better until now the shock is fully bleed and from the very top of stroke there is resistance.

I'm wondering if on the next one I try to fill the inner part of the shock first.

I'll take photo's that explain what I mean by the inner part and also show you what rivet not to drill out when I do the second shock.

[flatlander]

oil needs to be added into the damper tube. so if you added the right amount but the tube was empty inside then that's your problem.
this is described in the zimmerframe link in the post i gave you before. have a look again.

[PeWe]

I have Ikon shocks on both my CB750.
Ikon with progressive springs on my K6, non progressive on my K2.
Both bikes have progressive springs in the fork, Wirth vs Progressive. They look very similar side by side.

Progressive shock model my K6 has much better. Very comfortable and has good handling at the same time.
Purchased from Classic Cycle City Germany (eBay). Chromed version with caps, almost CB750 stock look.

My K2's are either too soft or too hard.  I have tried all combinations with spring setting and dampening.
Since it is stock and my wife's favourite it has the soft setting. This model also chromed with caps.

I recommend the progressive version, huge difference.

[Scott]

G’day Flatlander

I could probably make this a bit easier if I read that.  When I saw it looked a bit different I didn’t read any of it mainly cause I’m a slow reader (and now I’ve come to realise I’m a slow thinker)

Mate I’ll definitely read through it before I start on the second one. Thanks

I’m going away for a week and a bit tomorrow and taking my chook chaser so I’ll have a go that shock in a couple of weeks with a clear head.

[Scott]

Almost as much time of the road as on, but fully sorted for sure.

[Scott]

I looked up on you tube and found this idea for compressing the spring to get the thing apart

[Scott]

Not the right tool, but it works and causes no damage that will affect the shock

[Scott]

Stinky messy oil, but doesn’t take long to clean up.

I used petrol and a tooth brush then finished the job with carny cleaner

[Scott]

One shock came apart easily and the other one I used a brass drift and gave it a couple of taps on the lip of this top piece to get it apart

[Scott]

Take the bolt out off the bottom and keep the parts in order.

Under the bolt is a small washer and a larger washer. Some times with things like this I will get a small zip tie and feed the washers, spacers etc onto the cable tie in the order I removed them to make sure they go back the correct order.

[Scott]

I just used a socket that was a perfect fit with no gap to push in the new seal because the socket actually needs to go inside that retaining ring to push the seal all the way home

[Scott]

It’s hard to tell, but I have put 85ml of oil in there and then insert slowly the rest of the damping mechanism and screw it back together.

[Scott]

Once I knew how to do the job, I pulled the first shock off again and dumped the clean oil to make sure I measured exactly 85ml (I spilled some the first time) and I reckon you could do this job start to finish in about 2 hours for both shocks.

[Scott]

$140 Aussie for the parts

[Scott]

Seems obvious to have this on the lowest setting after I made it hard for myself by forgetting to do this on my first attempt.