Topic: I went shopping last year, inside the 836

[desertrefugee]

Yes! Those are your rods. Now let the steel ones sit on the shelf. They won't suffer quite as much wear and tear..

[desertrefugee]

  The crank may have been balanced with the steel rods. I'm not too sure if it matters that much on a 4 cylinder inline motor.

The rods don't make a difference....if the crank is balanced you can install whatever you want.

I would at least weigh each of the rods and, if necessary, remove material on the heavier ones if it's a significant difference.

[MRieck]

  The crank may have been balanced with the steel rods. I'm not too sure if it matters that much on a 4 cylinder inline motor.

The rods don't make a difference....if the crank is balanced you can install whatever you want.

I would at least weigh each of the rods and, if necessary, remove material on the heavier ones if it's a significant difference.

I took for granted he would at least check the overall weight of the rods.

[Don R]

 To be honest, I wanted to throw rings on it, slap on the fresh head and put it back together. I had not planned on basically building a new engine around the crank and rods.
 
   That said, I believe this motor was built by a professional. The PO said the two guys that built it ran pro stock bike on a Suzuki and retired in the early 2000's.  I would expect, judging by what I see they built it right. Miles and boost didn't kill this motor, barn moisture and mice did.

[Don R]

 I'm removing the Goodyear road race tire tomorrow and will try to ID the spokes, they are shorter than Honda 18" and longer than Honda 17" spokes. The hub's retainer threads are stripped so I'm retiring the hub and will lace the rim up to a new one whether I re-finish these spokes or find new ones.
  I'm taking the lesters along and will shop for new tires for them. I want tubeless radials speed rated so it will be legal for the half mile.

[seanbarney41]

Don, I was just today having tires mounted on a set of TL dot Lesters and the problem is the valve stem holes may be odd sizes.  My 18x2.5 front worked ok with standard size valve stem, although the part of the rim the stem goes through is thicker than modern designs.  My 18x3 rear had a smaller diameter than standard.  A size that fits is available, but it is unlikely that normal mc or tire shops are gonna stock it.  Still trying to source a functional valve stem for that rear, so I dunno...might just end up settling with a tube.

[Don R]

 Thanks for the heads-up. I'll be taking them home naked for some cleaning and painting, that will make time for finding a proper stem or modifying the hole.
  The shop owner has been a 750 honda guy since 1969 so he hopefully has seen it all before. He has the 69 diecast he assembled after me sandcast and still has it with Lesters on it although they are the old tube type.
 
   Edit, the younger Chas left early and me and the Dad had to work the tire machine. The upside is, I know how a tire machine works now. The goodyear road race tire didn't want to let the rim clamp get a grip so I grabbed his box cutter, went out in the driveway and cut the sidewall through in a groove on each side. Then slid the tread off and pulled the beads off with my bare hands. The Lesters worked a little better but 25 year old Metzler and Continentals do not give up easily.

[Don R]

 Today I said WTF and got a battery in my temperature gun and a fresh tank of maap gas. I chucked each piston into the vise and heated each one up to 400* I used an o ring pick in the end gap to open the ring a little and a modified flat blade screwdriver to tap the ring ends until they all popped out. I got them all without ruining anything except the rings.
  I'll go back out later to clean and measure the grooves to see what I'm dealing with. They had one piece oil rings on one through three, and a three piece oil ring on the number four piston. It appeared to have a different sleeve also.  I believe they are Venolia 65mm flat tops. Pics in reply #94. No name apparent, my 64mm RC Venolias are marked.

 Rings appear to be top 1.45 mm with my cheap dial caliper, gap around 1.5mm
                          second 1.45 mm.                                      "     
           one piece oil ring 2.40  mm. hmmmmmm. 

  The grooves clean up good, the rings needed the rust and carbon scotchbrighted off before I could measure them.  looks like the old 1.5/1.5 and 2.5mm or .060", .060"and .100" I'm not sure they still exist.

[Don R]

 Hastings has a set of 1.5/1.5/3mm x 2.559" or 65mm rings. I'd buy them and toss the 3mm oil ring if I can find the 2.5mm oil rings elsewhere.

 They have a set that thickness in 65.5mm dangit. 2.579 is .020 over 65mm.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403544308743?hash=item5df51d7c07:g:Cx4AAOSwr~piMbAv&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8KmaE25JOpZfJ8qsGQC0jPGNq9o9F4o9zIaxXjo90lBzkaf6K%2FcSyOrEVs86zFOs90NkQmmxeBsCecmYn9GHod4pOsL8QWhBkjshTeTs1FW3ginVTK90QjEp5XPYCf%2F2NSDFK46qyY6S8b0akKCV6%2B6P2oJ3NVpnM%2Boh7vxQ8AwgUbsp7vYtC%2FJQO90ZPeEHEEC3k0GYQI%2Bypc6vc6XeesBHRcyQJoHMOhvREHjGsWPjzqT%2BgtuJg7Jgf9YVeHo6GeOzcF%2B7LlZ7MajFh1x%2B7WBK2Cbmgm3whLlUi6AXrCjdS1EY9PL8eokvv5J3Qfi8QQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwJzUt5xh

 Edit, I found the 836 rings on ebay. I had looked at the ad before but didn't notice the ring thickness. 1.5/1.5/2.5 they have the 812 rings also.  With a chrome top ring also.

[Don R]

 My 812 has the same ring thickness so I'll order a set of those also. The pistons have some odd marks where the valves rubbed, one exhaust has valve marks on it and the next cylinder the valve rubbed the intake. At the least someone set the valves poorly and tried to crank it.
  It "ran when parked" so I'm sure it's fine now lol.
 I also got a new old stock Wiseco 812 10.25/1 kit. 64mm.

[Don R]

 In my project thread I mentioned getting the non-turbo 836 running and riding. It didn't run really well, it smoked  and soft seized on the way home after a check out/ heat it up, test and flush the oil ride.
  Today I took it apart and while on a break inside I thought didn't remember seeing the condition of the cam chain guide. Went back out and yup, I couldn't find one. The chain had been sawing the front of the case a little, I guess that may alter cam timing a bit?  Somehow it didn't jump time. I had adjusted the tensioner before the ride but it went more today. The pistons aren't scuffed and the cylinders only show the rust stain where it was stuck when I got it. Still not sure why it siezed except the crazy cam timing and a mile on the highway.

[dragracer]

Hopefully it'll be a simple fix and you can get it going again. There are several races in the midwest that might be of interest to you in the MAN Cup and super eliminator series. Sure would be nice to see you make at least one event this season.

In my project thread I mentioned getting the non-turbo 836 running and riding. It didn't run really well, it smoked  and soft seized on the way home after a check out/ heat it up, test and flush the oil ride.
  Today I took it apart and while on a break inside I thought didn't remember seeing the condition of the cam chain guide. Went back out and yup, I couldn't find one. The chain had been sawing the front of the case a little, I guess that may alter cam timing a bit?  Somehow it didn't jump time. I had adjusted the tensioner before the ride but it went more today. The pistons aren't scuffed and the cylinders only show the rust stain where it was stuck when I got it. Still not sure why it siezed except the crazy cam timing and a mile on the highway.

[dragracer]

Here's the Man Cup schedule.

[dragracer]

 
Here's the full super eliminator schedule.

DRAFT of our SE 2023 Schedule would look something like this: 

ManCup Dragway 42:  Jul 14-16
ManCup Rockingham: Aug 18-20
Bike Shootout US131:  Sep 16-20
ManCup St.Louis:         Oct 20-22
ManCup Valdosta:        Nov 17-19

[Don R]

   I did the gas calculations last year and my tow rig would suck up $800 worth of gas to Valdosta and back. We could race at St. Louis for a lot less than that though.
   Our last time at St Louis we were in the staging lanes and a super gas car backed over the front of our Dragster. Friday night, waiting for a  time run for the shootout, we never made it onto the track. It bent the body, wheels and a arms.   
 

[Old Scrambler]

Race-vehicles should not be allowed to have a REVERSE gear............same goes for old-farts in RVs ......especially when pulling a trailer

[Don R]

 I still cringe whenever a race car backs up in the lanes.

[dragracer]

I still cringe whenever a race car backs up in the lanes.

I'm way more concerned about the dang idiots who insist upon checking there transbrake at full throttle while sitting in the staging lanes. Total definition of stupidity without regard for the safety of other.

[Don R]

 I totally agree, it should be grounds for sending them home.
  I taught my crew to never walk between two vehicles when either one is running. Also never turn your back to the track while watching the burnout box. We always stand sideways, never next to the engine or transmission and remember that flying parts most often go out the right side.
 Those are this old Dad's track rules. 
 I have new bike rules to learn. I still am unclear about bikes at Cordova. I don't see a bike class.
 
  I heard a weird noise on track once while towing back and when I looked to see what it was, I saw Tom Klemme on his Z1 at the 1/4 mile mark with a car's driveshaft head high, traveling next to him. Since then, I haven't been  a fan of car vs bike racing.