Topic: front fork maintenance to avoid stiction

[Deltarider]

I suspect a little stiction in the legs of my CB500.
When I loosen somewhat: the axleholder nuts, mudguard fasteners, bottom tree nuts and top tree nuts and then pump up and down a few times, what then would be the appropiate order to fasten things in order to avoid stiction as much as possible?
The Haynes Manual suggests from the bottom up, so:
1. axle holder nuts
2. mudguard fasteners
3. bottom tree nuts
4. top tree nuts.
Is this right or should I start with the mudguard fasteners as Bryanj suggests in an other thread?

[TwoTired]

I had a bike that developed stiction after I hit a curb pretty hard.  Forks bent.  (Was better than getting hit by a car.)

I straighten the forks with a hydraulic press until they would roll flat on my cast iron table saw top.  They weren't bent by much, as I released the front brake as I hit the curb.

Still had stiction.

Using a flat plate of glass on the fork tubes to assemble and align the fork trees perfectly parallel, the stiction was gone.  I think the accident tweaked the top tree with the lower alignment.

Then as before, I installed the lowers, the fender brace and the front axle with the wheel.

This was the bike in my avatar 77 CB550F.

[seanbarney41]

This can really become a serious issue when attempting to use a fork brace.  Trying to put one together right now that is serious... minor stiction until the final bolt of the fork brace is torqued and then the suspension for all intents and purposes locks right up.  I have tried several different torqueing sequences...gotta tear it back down and inspect more closely.

[BenelliSEI]

Good question! I use the Haynes sequence and it seems to work. If your fork tubes have been locked in the tree since day one, try loosening them up and rotating them 90 degrees. Most of the wear is on the front and back, so this rotation should add some life?

[robvangulik]

Fresh fork oil can make a big difference.

[robvangulik]

Oh, and do not loosen the top and bottom tree bolts at the same time, that can litterally bring your bike to its knees.

[Quattrocilindri]

Good question! I use the Haynes sequence and it seems to work. If your fork tubes have been locked in the tree since day one, try loosening them up and rotating them 90 degrees. Most of the wear is on the front and back, so this rotation should add some life?

Makes sense. But can this measure also help in extending the fork seal life and prevent seepage?

[Deltarider]

Good question! I use the Haynes sequence and it seems to work. If your fork tubes have been locked in the tree since day one, try loosening them up and rotating them 90 degrees. Most of the wear is on the front and back, so this rotation should add some life?

Makes sense. But can this measure also help in extending the fork seal life and prevent seepage?

Best way is to keep or install gaitors. Mine have done close to 140.000 km and do not show any sign of seepage.
To be clear on my question: I am not 100% sure there's stiction. There's a minor unrest at around 70 km/h which may well have to do with a not perfect fit of the front tyre, due to rust build up on the rim's inside.
A tip in general. When you're to replace a tyre, first remove rust from the rim's inside. Once a 'kwikfitter' refused to put a new tyre on, not before I had removed the rust with a steelbrush...

[bryanj]

Will crocs do?

[Quattrocilindri]

Good question! I use the Haynes sequence and it seems to work. If your fork tubes have been locked in the tree since day one, try loosening them up and rotating them 90 degrees. Most of the wear is on the front and back, so this rotation should add some life?

Makes sense. But can this measure also help in extending the fork seal life and prevent seepage?

Best way is to keep or install gaitors. Mine have done close to 140.000 km and do not show any sign of seepage.
To be clear on my question: I am not 100% sure there's stiction. There's a minor unrest at around 70 km/h which may well have to do with a not perfect fit of the front tyre, due to rust build up on the rim's inside.
A tip in general. When you're to replace a tyre, first remove rust from the rim's inside. Once a 'kwikfitter' refused to put a new tyre on, not before I had removed the rust with a steelbrush...

My 350F does not have gaiters, but metal shrouds, and the right seal occasionally seeps a bit; only a drop or two, which keeps the tube lubricated and avoids stiction, I guess......