Topic: straightening the frame under seat methods?

[Shtonecb500]

how would any of you go about fixing this, getting back to near stock without causing more damage.

should i just leave it alone?

should i cut it off and weld on another cross member from another bike?

should i use heat and a wood block?


..Im going to take the rear fender off, grab bar, and take apart my shocks and polish everything. Figured while all that is off I might attempt this?


I was thinking heat up both sides cherry, take a wood block and hammer up in the center?

[CycleRanger]

Yeah, that can be carefully straightened with a decent hammer, no need for heat.

[Don R]

 I agree do it cold and a lot of tiny hits are better than a few large ones. I like the wood block idea too.

[BenelliSEI]

Do everything from below. You may have to open it up from below, straighten, then close it up (weld and grind). No one will see underneath!

[pjlogue]

Many stamped parts become work hardened and this adds to the strength of the part.  If you heat them up cherry red and let them cool they become softer and will deform more easily because heating removes the work hardening. 

As stated above, You should be able to gently work the piece (cold) back to near stock shape with some hardwood blocks and a hammer.  Work slowly, take your time.

-P.

[Shtonecb500]

Roger that, no heat applied, Ill take the slow cold route. I imagine some heat would help though just not cherry, right?

I was also thinking about removing everything, sticking small block of wood under the crossover run two bolts through it just like the fender then with two straps lifting up on the bike from that point (straps going under and hooking above the bike.... and then using a hammer on the sides...letting gravity help me out. I wonder how this happened, the frame looks like it was brushed over with black paint in this area, same paint they used to cover up scratches on the pipes so they wouldn't rust.

Another weird thing is the gold 500 on BAT right now has the same damage just not as extensive...you can see it slightly bowing out on the right side of the bike if u take a look.

[Little_Phil]

Another weird thing is the gold 500 on BAT right now has the same damage just not as extensive...you can see it slightly bowing out on the right side of the bike if u take a look.

Two up use.

[ekpent]

Put some hardwood blocks and c-clamps in the arsenal also. Have straightened out some bent fork ears that way in the past.

[TwoTired]

Put some hardwood blocks and c-clamps in the arsenal also. Have straightened out some bent fork ears that way in the past.

That’s what I was going to suggest, too. Not only blocks but dowels too, so you can more easily control where the pressure points are.  No heat needed.  You can also shape the wood into a from to match the contours needed.  Heavy duty C clamps can then apply just enough pressure to do the job.

[jgger]

I have found in many cases that using clamps requires just a tad of over bending as the metal wants to spring back when the pressure is removed.

[Shtonecb500]

It moved really easily with no heat at all, I used a hammer and dolly and got it as close as I could...at least back in its proper position.

thanks for all suggestions, greatly appreciated.

[HondaMan]

Put some hardwood blocks and c-clamps in the arsenal also. Have straightened out some bent fork ears that way in the past.

That’s what I was going to suggest, too. Not only blocks but dowels too, so you can more easily control where the pressure points are.  No heat needed.  You can also shape the wood into a from to match the contours needed.  Heavy duty C clamps can then apply just enough pressure to do the job.

That's how I've done it, too, TT.

[Tracksnblades1]

Put some hardwood blocks and c-clamps in the arsenal also. Have straightened out some bent fork ears that way in the past.

That’s what I was going to suggest, too. Not only blocks but dowels too, so you can more easily control where the pressure points are.  No heat needed.  You can also shape the wood into a from to match the contours needed.  Heavy duty C clamps can then apply just enough pressure to do the job.

That's how I've done it, too, TT.

+4..

And strategically placed hydraulic jack(s), blocks, and tie downs can do heavier tasks as well..