Topic: Johnie's 76 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow Build

[Mikey G.]

Oh yeah, that's definitely worth repairing.  You might be able to get some ABS angle stock and make a decent replacement tab.  That's what these covers are made of already, so an ABS cement will literally weld the pieces together.  Even if you have to piece something together from sheet stock it's not a super-stressed part.

Honda really had a good design with these sidecovers.  It's a shame they didn't use it more often on other bikes.

[BenelliSEI]

I’d make up a “u” shaped section in thin aluminum, to match the good one. Glue it in with contact cement and touch up the outside with a brush……

[Don R]

 The PO of my 78 said a guy was looking at buying it and wanted to see under the side cover, he handed the guy a screwdriver and the guy promptly broke off the tabs. I had repaired one before with aluminum tabs, and JB weld and offered to fix his. He said, you would fix those for me? I said yes, and then he offered to give me the bike. I paid a hundred for it after sitting 20 years in an attached garage.
 I made the tabs, sanded them and the sidecover area with 50 grit to rough it up and drilled a few small holes in both pieces for the JB weld to stick into. I re-marked the locations and stuck them on. Two bikes and no failure yet.

[Johnie]

All good suggestions. I contacted the daughter of the deceased PO. She said they have a number of boxes with small stuff in from her dad. That's where she found my key. She's going to look in those boxes and keep to see if that broken piece is in the box. Says her dad saved everything. Fingers crossed. I know where to get the AL stock, but Lucien where do I get ABS stock and ABS glue...hardware store?

[newday777]

All good suggestions. I contacted the daughter of the deceased PO. She said they have a number of boxes with small stuff in from her dad. That's where she found my key. She's going to look in those boxes and keep to see if that broken piece is in the box. Says her dad saved everything. Fingers crossed. I know where to get the AL stock, but Lucien where do I get ABS stock and ABS glue...hardware store?

ABS glue was in all hardware stores until several years ago. I had to order it on line last year.

[Mikey G.]

The only place that still stocks the cement around me is Ace Hardware, but most big box hardware stores should be able to order it at least.

The sheet stock I had to order online.  A 1'x4' sheet of the stuff cost less than $15 if I remember right, and I still have most of it left.  Just be sure it's actual ABS, and not stuff like styrene, PVC, polyethylene, etc.  I just checked, and Amazon has plenty of it.
 

[Johnie]

So would JB Weld quick set work too?

[Mikey G.]

It would.  You just have to rough up and prepare the surface first.  I prefer ABS because it literally melts the two surfaces into each other, whereas JB Weld is a strictly physical bond.  That said, it's a fairly low-stress joint, so either would be fine.

[newday777]

So would JB Weld quick set work too?

JB Weld is a more brittle joint than ABS Cement gives you.

[Johnie]

Got the 20 year old fuel out of the tank. About half gallon. Used a small brush to get the loose stuff out with a home-made scoop. Let it air out and dry over night and used my vac to get the rest of the stuff off the bottom. Bottom and most side walls look pretty good with the most rust at the top. My shop is at 60 degrees and the Metal Rescue says it needs 70 to be effective. I just happen to have 3 gallons around, but going to check the Evaporust out too.

[grcamna2]

Johnie,will you consider removing the tank from the bike and treating it to a warm spot of 75 ?

[Johnie]

Johnie,will you consider removing the tank from the bike and treating it to a warm spot of 75 ?

Bill, I can raise the temp in the shop or even wait until May or June. From what I read it is really a big task to remove that tank (tire, swingarm, shaft, wiring, etc.). I will do it in the bike and see how it turns out. Will use the shop vac to remove the cleaner. In the meantime I could use my auxiliary tank to fire it up, sync and ride it just to see how it runs. Removing the tank will be done if I am not happy with the results. I have certainly seen tanks worse than this.

[BenelliSEI]

Johnie…. I had to switch out the tank on my GL1000 and you are right. Do as much as you can in place. It’s a real pain and yours looks OK to me!

That bike uses a huge filter, before the fuel pump. Changing it a few times should keep your carbs safe.

[grcamna2]

Johnie,will you consider removing the tank from the bike and treating it to a warm spot of 75 ?

Bill, I can raise the temp in the shop or even wait until May or June. From what I read it is really a big task to remove that tank (tire, swingarm, shaft, wiring, etc.). I will do it in the bike and see how it turns out. Will use the shop vac to remove the cleaner. In the meantime I could use my auxiliary tank to fire it up, sync and ride it just to see how it runs. Removing the tank will be done if I am not happy with the results. I have certainly seen tanks worse than this.

Do you have enough 'rust treatment fluid'/Evaporust?  to fill the tank all the way up ?

[Johnie]

Johnie…. I had to switch out the tank on my GL1000 and you are right. Do as much as you can in place. It’s a real pain and yours looks OK to me!

That bike uses a huge filter, before the fuel pump. Changing it a few times should keep your carbs safe.

I appreciate that John. I have the new OE filter in place and was even thinking of adding a 2nd one in line, but not sure if the pump can handle 2 filters. Correct the tank really looks good, but will improve with at least one good cleaning.

[Johnie]

Johnie…. I had to switch out the tank on my GL1000 and you are right. Do as much as you can in place. It’s a real pain and yours looks OK to me!

That bike uses a huge filter, before the fuel pump. Changing it a few times should keep your carbs safe.

I appreciate that John. I have the new OE filter in place and was even thinking of adding a 2nd one in line, but not sure if the pump can handle 2 filters. Correct the tank really looks good, but will improve with at least one good cleaning.

Bill I do have enough to fill the tank to the top. I'll even set the bike on the center stand and will rotate it to the side stand. Plan to also lift the front of the bike up on the lift to tilt it with straps so it gets the cleaner in all areas...

[Mikey G.]

I can confirm that gas tank removal is a massive PITA.  Not only does most of the back end need to come off (wheel, brake, fender, exhaust), the shelter frame needs to be unbolted and lifted up to clear the filler neck.  If you can get it good enough in the frame, it's definitely preferable.

[Johnie]

I can confirm that gas tank removal is a massive PITA.  Not only does most of the back end need to come off (wheel, brake, fender, exhaust), the shelter frame needs to be unbolted and lifted up to clear the filler neck.  If you can get it good enough in the frame, it's definitely preferable.

Thanks for that Lucien. After reading the reviews I decided I'm going to go with the Evaporust. What did you guys do to reduce flash rust when you drained it?

[newday777]

To rinse the tank after the Evaporust treatment(full tank of Evaporust is important to get all the surfaces covered, I buy 5 gal cans of Evaporust from home depot online) then drain Evaporust back into a 5 gallon bucket. (Use a hand siphon pump to drain)
Get a 1 gallon garden sprayer, put in fresh diesel fuel and spray the tank all around to rinse well.(the oil in the diesel fuel will prevent flash rust). Do this by removing the fuel sensor to access the inside of the tank. You can use a brush to scrub the walls and ceiling of the tank too.
Then drain the diesel fuel into another clean 5 gallon bucket. You can let the diesel fuel mixture set in the bucket until the moisture settles to the bottom and after a few days I bucket out the clear diesel fuel into a diesel fuel container to reuse on next tank cleaning.
Use clean rags to wipe out any moisture and diesel fuel.
Then rinse again 2-3 more times with clean diesel fuel to get out all traces of moisture and wipe clean.
Then I coat the tank with fresh 2 stroke oil to preserve it. On your tank wipe it on with an oil soaked rag.

[grcamna2]

I know it's quite a bit of labor to remove the tank;I did it once on a GL1200I for a customer.
I would remove it to do what you're doing Johnie;I've got lots of time..

I'm accustomed to throwing 500-1000 BB's in a tank and shaking it every which way over a course of time,then rinsing every last bit of 'rusty dust' & sediment out with multiple rinses;it is a type of 'low speed bead blasting' and works very well.
The GW tank would be quite a physical work-out;you would need two people to shake that heavy tank.

[Mikey G.]

Newday said it best.  I threw in a bit of 2-stroke oil and made sure every surface was covered, and then did my best afterward to keep the tank fueled up as often as I could. 

[Johnie]

Can a guy use Fogging Spray and/or Marvel Mystery oil to prevent flash rust?

[BenelliSEI]

Don’t see why not.

[newday777]

Can a guy use Fogging Spray and/or Marvel Mystery oil to prevent flash rust?

Honda used to recommend fogging oil back in the 70s.
I think MMO will work.

[Stev-o]

I buy 5 gal cans of Evaporust from home depot online

I could not find it there so got it at Summit Racing... 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-er018