Topic: Adjusting Cam Tensioner question

[Mossy]

Hi Gents,
I'm still working on my "barn find" 350F. I wanted to adjust the cam chain tensioner. I followed my Clymer manual. Using the kick start, I set #1 cyl to TDC on the compression stroke (verified both rockers were loose) then moved forward 15 degrees. The bolt was rusty so I removed it and cleaned it up. When I reinstalled it it went back in with the washer
stopping the bolt. I tightened the locknut at that point. (which is where I believe it was previously.) Is this the correct way to do this?
Thank you.

[Nurse Julie]

The tensioner itself is self adjusting, that's if the cam chain isn't beyond spec, the pivot on the horseshoe isn't seized and the springs have enough spring left in them to push the bar. I've never done it the way you describe but I've never used Clymer either. Look at the procedure in the Workshop Manual which is simple, as long as everything is working correctly.

[MauiK3]

I have never really like Clymer or Haynes manuals, they try to cover too many models and it gets confusing.

[Mossy]

Thank you both. I guess I'll see what it sounds like.

[Mark1976]

   As long as you followed the procedure, it is what it is.  Once you start up you'll know, or maybe not, if your still unsure and don't have a trained ear as to what your listening for, do it while it's running at idle. Loosen the adjuster and then push or tap on the adjuster rod (use a longish narrow screwdriver) , if its out of adjustment you'll immediately hear the cam chain go quiet, otherwise its fine. It's not uncommon for the adjuster on the 350/400 to stick, lack of maintenance, the chain stretches and gauls the pivot point on the adjuster or the lock bolt that sets the adjuster rod gauls the adjuster and it refuses to slide in its bore. Either way, a tap is what is required to free it up.

[Mossy]

Thank you Mark. I'll definitely do that. I want to make sure I can get it running. If I do, I'll completely restore it as it needs brakes, tires, new wiring, etc.