Be advised about AGX (or, for that matter, any AG[other letters here] type of fuses: they are not vibration-rated: they are made for stationary applications (often called "appliance applications"). This means they will not stand up to physical vibration and shock while carrying current. Their tiny (skinny) portion of the element inside the glass gets very soft when carrying current near their rated load, and this is when road bumps then break the element. It then "blows" as if there was a short, and looks the same.
For a while in the early 2000s we were using upsized such fuses (like 20A in a 15 slot or 10A in a 7A slot) to try to prevent the hot-break scenario. It sort of works, but it also puts the wiring at risk if the current is actually higher than as rated for the wire size (15A or 7A, etc.). I repeatedly blew 20A and 25A main fuses in my 750 while riding and hitting potholes: not the best way to ride in rush-hour interstate-speed traffic! That's how I started using the modern ATC fuses instead.
The SFE (automotive-rated) fuse type had supports along the length of the element up to the edges of the narrowed area, or else it had a 'doped' section in the middle of the element that had more resistance than the whole length of the element, so it would concentrate the heating just at the very center of the fused link. Thus the rest of the length of the element was there to support the hot section. The AG(any letter here) type of fuse is a full-length-doped element, and can blow anywhere along its length. It also gets hot and soft all along the length.
That's the big-deal difference.
