Topic: Rattle Can Spraying an Assembled Engine

[papi_sosaa]

I’m still nowhere near ready to paint the engine yet but I wanted to know what would be the best approach to doing so.

Currently I have the clutch cover and the clutch out as I'm cleaning the gasket area and checking clearances.

The cylinder head, cylinder base, cylinder head cover, and tappet covers were sent out to a machine shop for some work and got vapor blasted. They're preserved in a box waiting for reassembly.


My plan is to finish cleaning the block (I did not crack open the crankcase), reassemble it with new gaskets, then put it into the frame so I can start planning and setting up the wiring. Once the wiring was done, I was going to start it up, test all my connections, and see if the engine is leaking. If everything checks out, I was going to take apart the bike again, send the frame out to get powder coated and then rattle can the engine in my garage.

I don’t think I’ll be able to strip the old paint off the block 100% so I’m just going to make sure whatever is left on is clean and dry.

Epoxy Primer, 2-3 layers of black high temp paint, and if I can, a layer of clear coat.

I was going to paint my spare oil pan separately as to avoid it getting scratched and then swap out the pan once the engine is in the frame.


Does that sound okay?

[HondaMan]

You'll find that getting the bottom end clean enough to paint this way is hard to do(!). It is covered with old paint, old grease & dirt, and oxidized layers of aluminum bits where the old paint is gone. The new paint won't stick to that very well, causing it to flake off in about a year.

If you decide to take the bottom apart for cleaning you can also change the primary chain, which will make for a quieter, better-running engine afterward.
Have the bottom end parts cleaned in a machine shop's parts washer (about $50-$90, depending on where you live), bolted together as one part, with the crankshaft's main bearings removed (I store them in an empty egg carton, labelled each one as to its position, top or bottom, and #1-#5 locations).

[Stev-o]

Epoxy Primer, 2-3 layers of black high temp paint, and if I can, a layer of clear coat.

Sounds like overkill to me.  On my Honda engine rebuilds, I just used VHT paint. No primer or clear, but the aluminum was not bare, you may want to prime those.

https://www.vhtpaint.com/motorsport/vht-black-oxide-case-paint

On my last Kawasaki motor rebuild [H2 750], had the entire motor vapor blasted and it still looks great several years later.

[papi_sosaa]

Epoxy Primer, 2-3 layers of black high temp paint, and if I can, a layer of clear coat.

Sounds like overkill to me.  On my Honda engine rebuilds, I just used VHT paint. No primer or clear, but the aluminum was not bare, you may want to prime those.

https://www.vhtpaint.com/motorsport/vht-black-oxide-case-paint

On my last Kawasaki motor rebuild [H2 750], had the entire motor vapor blasted and it still looks great several years later.

Yeah I'm most likely going to use the VHT paints. I had sprayed some calipers with their products a few years ago and they came out looking perfect.

I wanted to use primer as most of the engine is already down to bare aluminum. There's still some hard to reach spots of painted surface on the engine that I'm going to leave alone but at least make sure is clean.

[papi_sosaa]

You'll find that getting the bottom end clean enough to paint this way is hard to do(!). It is covered with old paint, old grease & dirt, and oxidized layers of aluminum bits where the old paint is gone. The new paint won't stick to that very well, causing it to flake off in about a year.

If you decide to take the bottom apart for cleaning you can also change the primary chain, which will make for a quieter, better-running engine afterward.
Have the bottom end parts cleaned in a machine shop's parts washer (about $50-$90, depending on where you live), bolted together as one part, with the crankshaft's main bearings removed (I store them in an empty egg carton, labelled each one as to its position, top or bottom, and #1-#5 locations).

If parts were easier to get than I would 100% open the crankcase. I have the oil seals for both sides of crankshaft and the countershaft but I don't want to open it unless I absolutely have to.

The engine ran ok before I disassembled it. I'm afraid I'd find something that would need replacing with a discontinued, hard to find, part and make the rebuild process take that much longer. I'm already forced to reuse the tensioner and the one out of my spare engine is not a suitable replacement.

[M 750K6]

I used brass brushes in a dremel and got the old paint off. They come in pointy cone, inverse cone and flat brush shapes, so you can get into the inside corner castings. I went over it by hand with 1200 grit to key the surface by taking off any shine. Then etch primer, then VHT. Left it to cure offnfor a couple of weeks, with a fan heater on it the first couple of days, then engine lacquer to improve resistance to fuel. However, for the cylinder fins I just did a really light frosting with etch primer and the same with paint, no lacquer. Right or wrong, I thought fewer layers might help cooling.

Happy with the result. Only a thousand miles on, but looking fresh.

[Flyin900]

VHT engine paint is my go to product and a self etching primer over a very clean engine is a good choice too. Don't go overboard with 2-3 coats of the VHT engine paint. If you do so it will take ages to cure and stays soft when the motor is run in to bake the paint if too thick multi layers are applied.

I like to let the paint sit for an extended period before doing the engine firing to cure, yet the idea of using a heater to assist the curing sounds like a solid idea. I painted the top end only of the engine on my CB1100F last fall and let it sit over the winter to cure and off gas in the garage. This isn't always an option though for most rider bikes.

This is a combination of the Dupl-Color Engine primer and then the VHT semi gloss engine enamel from last fall. Motor in frame so tons of work to get it clean enough and wrapped for the paint process.

[papi_sosaa]

If you decide to take the bottom apart for cleaning you can also change the primary chain, which will make for a quieter, better-running engine afterward.
Have the bottom end parts cleaned in a machine shop's parts washer (about $50-$90, depending on where you live), bolted together as one part, with the crankshaft's main bearings removed (I store them in an empty egg carton, labelled each one as to its position, top or bottom, and #1-#5 locations).

I ended up splitting the case because I couldn't get the starter clutch out through the oil pan and the starter clutch made me use a bunch of tools in order to take it apart. I'm going to call up the shop were I got the head vapor blasted and ask him to do the bottom end as well. Anything else worth getting the shop to do?

I'm on the fence about changing out the chains but I feel like I might as well since I'm this far into it now

[jakec]

I kinda wish I painted by cases when I did my 400 engine, I got it vapor blasted and did not paint. If you ride it a lot the water, oil, and dirt from the road makes the cases look crusty. It will clean off, but it would probably look better right now if it was painted.

[grcamna2]

If you decide to take the bottom apart for cleaning you can also change the primary chain, which will make for a quieter, better-running engine afterward.
Have the bottom end parts cleaned in a machine shop's parts washer (about $50-$90, depending on where you live), bolted together as one part, with the crankshaft's main bearings removed (I store them in an empty egg carton, labelled each one as to its position, top or bottom, and #1-#5 locations).

I ended up splitting the case because I couldn't get the starter clutch out through the oil pan and the starter clutch made me use a bunch of tools in order to take it apart. I'm going to call up the shop were I got the head vapor blasted and ask him to do the bottom end as well. Anything else worth getting the shop to do?

I'm on the fence about changing out the chains but I feel like I might as well since I'm this far into it now

How many miles/kilometers are on the bike ?

[papi_sosaa]

How many miles/kilometers are on the bike ?

Not sure, haven't looked at the odometer in a year haha.

Pretty sure it was like 35000-37000 kms.

[Tracksnblades1]

VHT engine paint is my go to product and a self etching primer over a very clean engine is a good choice too. Don't go overboard with 2-3 coats of the VHT engine paint. If you do so it will take ages to cure and stays soft when the motor is run in to bake the paint if too thick multi layers are applied.

I like to let the paint sit for an extended period before doing the engine firing to cure, yet the idea of using a heater to assist the curing sounds like a solid idea. I painted the top end only of the engine on my CB1100F last fall and let it sit over the winter to cure and off gas in the garage. This isn't always an option though for most rider bikes.

This is a combination of the Dupl-Color Engine primer and then the VHT semi gloss engine enamel from last fall. Motor in frame so tons of work to get it clean enough and wrapped for the paint process.

Looks good..

Have you been caught out in the elements yet while riding ?

Just wondering how well the wet road film comes off after being baked on during the ride..?

[Flyin900]

VHT engine paint is my go to product and a self etching primer over a very clean engine is a good choice too. Don't go overboard with 2-3 coats of the VHT engine paint. If you do so it will take ages to cure and stays soft when the motor is run in to bake the paint if too thick multi layers are applied.

I like to let the paint sit for an extended period before doing the engine firing to cure, yet the idea of using a heater to assist the curing sounds like a solid idea. I painted the top end only of the engine on my CB1100F last fall and let it sit over the winter to cure and off gas in the garage. This isn't always an option though for most rider bikes.

This is a combination of the Dupl-Color Engine primer and then the VHT semi gloss engine enamel from last fall. Motor in frame so tons of work to get it clean enough and wrapped for the paint process.

Looks good..

Have you been caught out in the elements yet while riding ?

Just wondering how well the wet road film comes off after being baked on during the ride..?

Well it hasn’t been back on the road yet as it is still just starting into riding season here and I am still doing the reassembly. I have used this method for years mostly with the engine removed vs this one in frame. I don’t ride in bad weather, yet have been caught a number of times in pretty heavy rain resulting in a dirty bike/engine afterwards. No issues with cleaning the motor., or the bike in general. I use the  same style of DupliColor caliper paint on various non motor items too and they clean up well with just a soapy wash brush and water hose pressure.

[M 750K6]

VHT engine paint is my go to product and a self etching primer over a very clean engine is a good choice too. Don't go overboard with 2-3 coats of the VHT engine paint. If you do so it will take ages to cure and stays soft when the motor is run in to bake the paint if too thick multi layers are applied.

I like to let the paint sit for an extended period before doing the engine firing to cure, yet the idea of using a heater to assist the curing sounds like a solid idea. I painted the top end only of the engine on my CB1100F last fall and let it sit over the winter to cure and off gas in the garage. This isn't always an option though for most rider bikes.

This is a combination of the Dupl-Color Engine primer and then the VHT semi gloss engine enamel from last fall. Motor in frame so tons of work to get it clean enough and wrapped for the paint process.

Looks good..

Have you been caught out in the elements yet while riding ?

Just wondering how well the wet road film comes off after being baked on during the ride..?

Well it hasn’t been back on the road yet as it is still just starting into riding season here and I am still doing the reassembly. I have used this method for years mostly with the engine removed vs this one in frame. I don’t ride in bad weather, yet have been caught a number of times in pretty heavy rain resulting in a dirty bike/engine afterwards. No issues with cleaning the motor., or the bike in general. I use the  same style of DupliColor caliper paint on various non motor items too and they clean up well with just a soapy wash brush and water hose pressure.

I've done just over 1000 miles on mine since rebuild. I was careful when washing the engine, at first. It is holding up fine. Last couple of washes I just washed like normal. I have to wash after each ride. I live the wrong side of a tidal causeway. When the road's damp, it throws up salt water spray. When it's dry, salty dust.  I get to know the nooks and crannies of my bikes!

[grcamna2]

VHT engine paint is my go to product and a self etching primer over a very clean engine is a good choice too. Don't go overboard with 2-3 coats of the VHT engine paint. If you do so it will take ages to cure and stays soft when the motor is run in to bake the paint if too thick multi layers are applied.

I like to let the paint sit for an extended period before doing the engine firing to cure, yet the idea of using a heater to assist the curing sounds like a solid idea. I painted the top end only of the engine on my CB1100F last fall and let it sit over the winter to cure and off gas in the garage. This isn't always an option though for most rider bikes.

This is a combination of the Dupl-Color Engine primer and then the VHT semi gloss engine enamel from last fall. Motor in frame so tons of work to get it clean enough and wrapped for the paint process.

Looks good..

Have you been caught out in the elements yet while riding ?

Just wondering how well the wet road film comes off after being baked on during the ride..?

Well it hasn’t been back on the road yet as it is still just starting into riding season here and I am still doing the reassembly. I have used this method for years mostly with the engine removed vs this one in frame. I don’t ride in bad weather, yet have been caught a number of times in pretty heavy rain resulting in a dirty bike/engine afterwards. No issues with cleaning the motor., or the bike in general. I use the  same style of DupliColor caliper paint on various non motor items too and they clean up well with just a soapy wash brush and water hose pressure.

I've done just over 1000 miles on mine since rebuild. I was careful when washing the engine, at first. It is holding up fine. Last couple of washes I just washed like normal. I have to wash after each ride. I live the wrong side of a tidal causeway. When the road's damp, it throws up salt water spray. When it's dry, salty dust.  I get to know the nooks and crannies of my bikes!

I understand a bit of that salt air;the stuff is relentless.