Topic: Running out of timing adjustment range with points plate

[cado007]

I have run out of room on a 1978 Honda CB550K  2 and 3 timing plate-  and I am trying to employ two tired's shimming to the plate.
I am looking for clarification. Does the feeler gauge go under the plate or under the washer on screw above plate?. Is there an ideal screw of the 3 to insert feeler gauge- such as top- right or left? about what size feeler is usually used? Isn't there a way to influence movement with point gap size as well?
Thanks in advance

[M 750K6]

I had the same problem on my 750. I had incorrectly set 1 & 2 points gap, too wide. Once set correctly, I was able to get 2 & 3 timed.

[69cb750]

Isn't there a way to influence movement with point gap size as well?

Set point gap at .014"
If point gap is to large plate has to move far right to compensate.

[Redline it]

,if you're still having problems after trying these suggestions, know that when the plate(s) are turned the gaps can change. if running out of adj on the 2 and 3 timing light lining up. in the direction that you're turning that plate,  try before fininshing the setting of 1 loand 4, turn that main plate in the direction of the direction of loosing the 2/3 reach, just a bit, don't tighten the large plate any tighter than it needs to be, and try to time 2/3 first, stay with me, if it made a difference one way or the other keep that in mind. and semi correct the 1/4 plate so that when you move the 2/3 into position that 1/4 will follow to both being lined up perfectly. it takes a try or 2 to see what i'm talking about. get the gaps both about right first. you wont have to set the 1/4 plate too far off, once you know which way i'ts needed to go or will go by serting the 2/3 plate, its either that or set 2/3 oiff and move 1/4 around to see if you pass further on the 2/3 movement. i kind of forgot the details, if it' hasn't been erased. you might find it in a thread here somewhere. but it worlks like a champ to do. takes a couple tries to nail it i used to fight it, until i expiremented with it and found that it oddly worked. just don't bear down on the screws too thight.

[RAFster122s]

Gotta ask, are the points Diachi, if so you would be hard pressed to get them adjusted without mods …
Better to buy entire points plate from Honda with points and condensers than try to get them timed…

they are that difficult…they, diachi, aren’t made right and geometry is wrong causing the points to not line up and running out of adjustment…contact faces sometimes don’t even line up. Cheap Chinese crap product… the logo is a small 3 pointed propeller

[kerryb]

I have run out of room on a 1978 Honda CB550K  2 and 3 timing plate-  and I am trying to employ two tired's shimming to the plate.
I am looking for clarification. Does the feeler gauge go under the plate or under the washer on screw above plate?. Is there an ideal screw of the 3 to insert feeler gauge- such as top- right or left? about what size feeler is usually used? Isn't there a way to influence movement with point gap size as well?
Thanks in advance

Your description doesn’t make clear that you understand the purpose of the shim.  It goes on the side of the plate with the folded or bent part going under the plate at the screw to lock it down. 

[scottly]

I have run out of room on a 1978 Honda CB550K  2 and 3 timing plate-  and I am trying to employ two tired's shimming to the plate.

You shouldn't have to shim anything. The screws on the plate should be lightly snug when you check the timing and/or points gap. If adjustments to timing are required, loosen the screws, move the plate, snug the screws, and check again. Repeat as necessary. Once satisfied, tighten the screws fully.

[Deltarider]

Never needed to shim anything, but... I have no experience with aftermarket plates. Scottly's approach is right. My personal tip: do not be tempted to adjust the timing dynamically. There's this alternating back pressure going on from the breakerpoints springs resp. left and right which may make it difficult for you if you don't have the perfect 'degree of snug'. Instead: check (preferably by using a strobe) - then stop engine - adjust - check and repeat these steps till you're satisfied. Adjusting the breakerpoints gap by using a dwellmeter can be done dynamically though. Realise that (re)adjusting the breakerpoints gap always proceeds timing. As a matter of fact, you'll find more than often that just (re)adjusting the breakerpoints gap is all what it takes to arrive at the correct timing again. This makes sense.
Alas... many amateurs reading the manuals, conclude that adjusting the plates is always involved. Not so, not necessarily. The plates are firmly fastened and do not move. The only wear is at the breakerpoints. That's why professional mecs - provided the maintenance of your bike was always done by dealers - usually only needed to readjust the gap.
Below a pic of mine. It clearly shows that on a CB500/550 it can all be done and have everything practically in the middle of the adjusting range. When that pic was taken, the breakerpoints had already served some 55.000km (over 34k miles)...