Topic: Total Loss system question

[hogsnhondas]

I checked the FAQ before I posted (I am relatively new here) and did not see anything referenced. Anyone with an explanation of "Total Loss" electrical systems. I have a 71 CB350 twin I am preparing to race next season. Any info on what is best or where to get more info?

Greatly appreciated.

[dusterdude]

basically,total loss refers to not running an alternator or any other device to keep the battery charged.you will need to charge the battery yourself between races/rounds.

[ohiocaferacer]

Same as DD said.....basically you run your positive lead from the battery straight to your coils. Battery provides current for the spark and once its low......no more spark.
Definately have to recharge the battery every time the bike is parked or shut down.

Later,
Greg
www.OHIOCAFERACERS.com

[754]

Works great on CB 750 as well

[Sam Green Racing]

Further to what the guys have said above, a 12v 11amphour battery should last you a meeting, depending on the duration and number of races.
A mate of mine runs that set up and it lasts for 4 laps of the I.O.M. TT course (150.92miles) with life still in it.
The advantage's of running total loss are two fold. First, the battery weighs less than the generating system, second, when a generator is working to produce power, it is a resistance on the motor and is sapping power.
It allways pays to have a spare back up battery just in case the other one should fail.

Sam.

[turboguzzi]

running total loss in my racer and even 9 Ah is fine for a weekend with two 20 min practices, two 15 min qualifying sessions + 25-30 min race, that is assuming you are running an electronic system and not points that sap much more juice.

Cheers
TG

 

[Triffecpa]

On my vintage race bikes, I run a hot lead (with an in-line blade type fuse) up thru the stock kill switch (or better yet an after market toggle switch mounted near the handlebar) and then down to the positive side of the coils.  That gives you an "ignition switch" to turn the bike off and on.  Also, don't leave the switch in the "on" position if you are not riding the bike as it tends to drain the battery (using a Dyna S ignition anyway).

The other good news is that the wire up thru the kill switch and back to the coils and the igniton wires from the coils to the Dyna make up the entire wire harness for the bike.  You can toss everything else.  More weight saved.

Tracy

[750deepsouth]

Thanks guys as this was a subject I needed advice about as well.


Hi Sam. Did I tell you me wheels are getting built as we speak. I hope 

[kayaker43]

Yeah, total loss is the way to go for racing, I used small batteries and swapped them for every race or practice. Then you can remove the Dyno or even cut off the crank end,... less flywheel, less weight, no charging drag..

These days you could come up with a much better and lighter Lithium polymer battery pack for the R/C model industry.