Topic: crankcase bolts + loctite?

[paulages]

what do you guys use on the 6mm case bolts? red loctite? i've never found any upon disassembly, but it sure always seems like good idea to me. 5-8 ft lbs. aint much torque...

[dusterdude]

dont use red,you`ll never get em out.use blue if you must use any.

[78CB750CAFE]

I like to use Anti Seize on stuff like that. I did some SS bolts on an older build without it, and I got a lot of brinelling (sp?) and stuck bolts, no problems yet with the ones I have used anti seize. See if you can get the stick form of blue loctite and anti seize, they are way neater and very convenient, I never use the liquid stuff unless I am using red on something that is already assembled.

Drew

[754]

I am pretty sure Honda figured out if it will hold before printing the torque spec..not only that but a flanged head bolt should hold much beter than a regular bolt and lockwasher..

Use red on stuff you dont want coming apart..or are willing to use a torch to remove it..just asking for trouble using red on case bolts IMO..

[MRieck]

 I use red to hold heavy duty cylinder studs and main studs.....that's about it.

[paulages]

thanks guys. yeah, i'm hesitant to use loctite in almost all situations, from my days as an auto-mechanic and the nightmares that accompanied removing frozen bolts on a flat-rate pay structure. some of the case bolts on the motor i'm finishing up right now just don't feel right. the torque wrench will click at 5 ft/lbs, but at 7 the bolt just keeps going like it's either still tightening or is on the verge of stripping. it really feels like the former and not the latter, but damn i don't want to strip one.

[scondon]

the torque wrench will click at 5 ft/lbs, but at 7 the bolt just keeps going like it's either still tightening or is on the verge of stripping. it really feels like the former and not the latter, but damn i don't want to strip one.

   When I get in that situation I use a regular socket wrench to "feel" how the bolt is tightening down. Really easy to strip out a bolt hole using the long torque wrench, you never "feel" it. Once you get it snug there shouldn't be more than a 1/4-3/8 turn left using the torque wrench. Difference between 5 and 7ft lbs is like a 1/32 turn. If memory serves.

  I have a really cheap "click type" torque wrench that doesn't measure well below 10ft lbs. I've adopted the method of tightening those bolts by feel, each one feeling equally tight. Haven't had any leaks or troubles with the cases after 9000 miles.

[paulages]

the torque wrench will click at 5 ft/lbs, but at 7 the bolt just keeps going like it's either still tightening or is on the verge of stripping. it really feels like the former and not the latter, but damn i don't want to strip one.

   When I get in that situation I use a regular socket wrench to "feel" how the bolt is tightening down. Really easy to strip out a bolt hole using the long torque wrench, you never "feel" it. Once you get it snug there shouldn't be more than a 1/4-3/8 turn left using the torque wrench. Difference between 5 and 7ft lbs is like a 1/32 turn. If memory serves.

  I have a really cheap "click type" torque wrench that doesn't measure well below 10ft lbs. I've adopted the method of tightening those bolts by feel, each one feeling equally tight. Haven't had any leaks or troubles with the cases after 9000 miles.

i usually go by the "tendon" method for 7 ft/lb range...right about then your wrist tendon pops out if using a 1/4" drive ratchet with your thumb around the beginning of the ratchet and the handle in your palm. i was really using the torque wrench to double check them after they were feeling strange.

two of the bolts won't bottom out at all.  must be some glass bead or some other crap in the hole that wouldn't blow out. i've gotta make a thread chaser tonight to try and clean them up.

[MRieck]

the torque wrench will click at 5 ft/lbs, but at 7 the bolt just keeps going like it's either still tightening or is on the verge of stripping. it really feels like the former and not the latter, but damn i don't want to strip one.

   When I get in that situation I use a regular socket wrench to "feel" how the bolt is tightening down. Really easy to strip out a bolt hole using the long torque wrench, you never "feel" it. Once you get it snug there shouldn't be more than a 1/4-3/8 turn left using the torque wrench. Difference between 5 and 7ft lbs is like a 1/32 turn. If memory serves.

  I have a really cheap "click type" torque wrench that doesn't measure well below 10ft lbs. I've adopted the method of tightening those bolts by feel, each one feeling equally tight. Haven't had any leaks or troubles with the cases after 9000 miles.

i usually go by the "tendon" method for 7 ft/lb range...right about then your wrist tendon pops out if using a 1/4" drive ratchet with your thumb around the beginning of the ratchet and the handle in your palm. i was really using the torque wrench to double check them after they were feeling strange.

two of the bolts won't bottom out at all.  must be some glass bead or some other crap in the hole that wouldn't blow out. i've gotta make a thread chaser tonight to try and clean them up.

Stick the tube from a can of brake cleaner down there and give it a few blasts before the air. That is unless the cases are freshly painted.

[paulages]

the torque wrench will click at 5 ft/lbs, but at 7 the bolt just keeps going like it's either still tightening or is on the verge of stripping. it really feels like the former and not the latter, but damn i don't want to strip one.

   When I get in that situation I use a regular socket wrench to "feel" how the bolt is tightening down. Really easy to strip out a bolt hole using the long torque wrench, you never "feel" it. Once you get it snug there shouldn't be more than a 1/4-3/8 turn left using the torque wrench. Difference between 5 and 7ft lbs is like a 1/32 turn. If memory serves.

  I have a really cheap "click type" torque wrench that doesn't measure well below 10ft lbs. I've adopted the method of tightening those bolts by feel, each one feeling equally tight. Haven't had any leaks or troubles with the cases after 9000 miles.

i usually go by the "tendon" method for 7 ft/lb range...right about then your wrist tendon pops out if using a 1/4" drive ratchet with your thumb around the beginning of the ratchet and the handle in your palm. i was really using the torque wrench to double check them after they were feeling strange.

two of the bolts won't bottom out at all.  must be some glass bead or some other crap in the hole that wouldn't blow out. i've gotta make a thread chaser tonight to try and clean them up.

Stick the tube from a can of brake cleaner down there and give it a few blasts before the air. That is unless the cases are freshly painted.

that sure would be a good way to test the durability of VHT paint, huh?    might have to try it anyway...