Author Topic: New Screws  (Read 1887 times)

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revjim

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New Screws
« on: March 03, 2008, 03:39:29 PM »
All the phillips head screws that were in covers on the engine are toast...are you guys replacing with the same or with a different type of head for easier removal.   I have a 76 sohc engine.  Thanks guys.

Offline clearcan

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2008, 03:45:13 PM »
Hex head, much easier to get in and out.
1978 750K

Offline 736cc

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2008, 04:14:33 PM »
   If you like the stock look, and want the bike original, use oem screws. With right tools, they work fine. Personally, I think the hexheads stand-out in the wrong way on an otherwise stock machine. Can't strip them, though.

revjim

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2008, 05:49:47 PM »
where do you get them????

Offline TwoTired

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2008, 06:04:45 PM »
I don't think you want hex head screws.  Allen heads are another matter.

Phillips or cross points work well, as long as you use the correct, properly fitting driver. And, replace the driving end when it gets worn.

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Offline MikeD718

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2008, 06:25:06 PM »
'76 CB750F
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Offline hopterfixer

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2008, 08:16:43 PM »
I think I paid $25 for a full 750 engine polished stainless allen head set from Stainless Cycle off of ebay two years ago.  Good folks, good kit.   

Offline purf_man

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2008, 03:44:02 AM »
I wish people sold pan allen heads in teh kits instead of the socket heads.  look more OEM, sit lower and polish easier.
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Offline eurban

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2008, 05:42:12 AM »
I wish people sold pan allen heads in teh kits instead of the socket heads.  look more OEM, sit lower and polish easier.

You are refering to what the industry calls "button head" screws.  I did my 78 750s engine covers with these.  Couple of issues though . . . .It is difficult if not impossible to find the longer lengths in button heads.  I was buying stainless bolts for just about everything on the bike from a fellow in Europe and he offered to have the longer lengths welded up.  Not particularly cheap but problem solved.   The button heads use a much smaller allen key than the equivalent size allen cap screw would use and with the softness of stainless, it is very easy to strip out the head.  Also, my supplier made a poor choice when he electropolished the buttons (rather than hand polish) because this process removes just a bit of material.  End result was a sloppy fit with even a new correct sized allen key.  Soft stainless, small allen key, sloppy fit, and the result is that many of my cover bolts are just about toast even when only torqued to the minimal amount speced.  I will have to at some point replace the easy to get shorter lengths with hand polished ones or just switch over to the ugly allen cap screws.  The buttons do look really sweet but I can't say that they worked very well in (or on :D) my case.  I would guess that the stainless phillips screws would be much more susceptible to stripping than mild steel ones and would be a poor choice as well.  All in all, for stainless engine cover screws, there seems to be some wisdom to using the allen cap screws rather than other alternatives, at least for long term function.  Here's a pic of the engine with the button heads.  Its kind of hard to tell the difference between them and stock bolts in this pic, but I guess thats the point isn't it?
« Last Edit: March 04, 2008, 06:10:56 AM by eurban »

Offline 75750SS

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2008, 01:01:18 PM »

Offline BobbyR

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2008, 01:57:49 PM »
I am going to try the button heads myself. The hex heads just stick out too much 
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revjim

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2008, 02:04:21 PM »
How do I buy from the guy at Metrocast?  Good price, but there is no way to buy it.

Offline 75750SS

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2008, 05:14:02 PM »
From the 'Purchase' instructions:

The fastest way to purchase sets is to view the details about the sets you want, and click the Add to Cart buttons to use PayPal. I also accept money orders and checks. Email me with the sets you would like to purchase at the address below.

If you decide to pay by PayPal without the automatic Add to Cart buttons, send the total amount due to the same email address, and send me a separate email explaining exactly what you need.

Click on 'Screw Sets' then click on the icon left of the model you're looking at.  The next screen gives you a 'Add to Cart' button.

Javier

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2008, 06:49:38 PM »
you may have already chosen what to go with, but of all the things I like the most on my 78 750K the most, it's the joy of knowing I won't be tapping any stripped out phillips screws anywhere, anytime, anymore. I went with the stainless allens, and once I got all my f-ed up phillips, and put in my allens, I may have shed tears of happiness. And you can always use the proper tools for the proper head phillips as with anything else, but if you already have to replace them, and you the got the bike that way.... anyhoo good luck  -  Javi

Offline jtb

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #14 on: March 05, 2008, 05:39:13 AM »
If you buy from Jim Spillane, be sure to tell him you're a member here.  If I recall, he gave me a discount for that.
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Offline SteveD CB500F

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #15 on: March 05, 2008, 06:19:56 AM »
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Offline goon 1492

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #16 on: March 05, 2008, 06:57:45 AM »
be carefull when buying stainless they are usually made for specific applications considering most stainless hardware has only 12% chromuim that makes for a soft screw head that can post the risk for strippage (and i don't mean the night club :P) if you can get them to tell you the precentages of the metals
(most will not ::)) but it will help you with what application you can use them on.
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Offline goon 1492

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #17 on: March 07, 2008, 05:44:51 AM »
some more info for everyone using stainless, theres more on wikipedia about different hardness series too if interested..


In metallurgy, stainless steel is defined as an iron-carbon alloy with a minimum of 11.5 wt% chromium content.[1] Stainless steel does not stain, corrode or rust as easily as ordinary steel (it "stains less"), but it is not stain-proof. It is also called corrosion resistant steel when the alloy type and grade are not detailed, particularly in the aviation industry. There are different grades and surface finishes of stainless steel to suit the environment to which the material will be subjected in its lifetime. Common uses of stainless steel are cutlery and watch straps.

High oxidation-resistance in air at ambient temperature is normally achieved with additions of a minimum of 13% (by weight) chromium, and up to 26% is used for harsh environments.[2] The chromium forms a passivation layer of chromium(III) oxide (Cr2O3) when exposed to oxygen. The layer is too thin to be visible, which means that the metal remains lustrous. It is, however, impervious to water and air, protecting the metal beneath. Also, this layer quickly reforms when the surface is scratched. This phenomenon is called passivation and is seen in other metals, such as aluminium and titanium. When stainless steel parts such as nuts and bolts are forced together, the oxide layer can be scraped off causing the parts to weld together. When disassembled, the welded material may be torn and pitted, an effect that is known as galling. This destructive galling can be best avoided by the use of dissimilar materials, e.g. bronze to stainless steel, or even different types of stainless steels (martensitic against austenitic, etc.), when metal-to-metal wear is a concern. In addition, Nitronic alloys (trademark of Armco, Inc.) reduce the tendency to gall through selective alloying with manganese and nitrogen.

Nickel also contributes to passivation, as do other less commonly used ingredients such as molybdenum and vanadium
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Offline bikehenge

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Re: New Screws
« Reply #18 on: March 07, 2008, 08:13:33 AM »
purf_man,
I also prefer the button head appearance to the "traditional" allen head more readily available.  I have not been able to source the longer screws required for the valve cover in button head. 

Rob