If you want a quick and dirty test of whether the engine will run, you don't need much time or money invested.
You can start it with open exhaust ports, don't run it for a long time like that though. It will sound incredibly weird... don't worry about that either - with pipes it will sound normal.
You need the oil tank with a dry sump (750) motor. Watch out if it's sat a long time, you may now have a full sump and empty tank if the check valve leaks... if you fill the tank you'll get an oil gusher from the tank when it pumps the sump out. I would remove the drain plug and check that personally.
Fuel is required obviously. I soldered a plumbing petcock (probably for a heating radiator air vent, I dunno... Home Depot) in the bottom of an old metal syrup can and a wire hook to the top: with a pint of gas in it I can hang it on a nail beside & above the bike.
Electricity is very simple for kickstarting: 12V battery, "-" terminal to the frame, "+" terminal to the ignition coil black wires. You should have a switch of some sort in the + wire. For electric start it's a bit more complicated to do a "nice job" but in a pinch I have just used a (separate) car battery and jumper cables... connect the black "-" cable to frame and when you clip the red "+" wire to the starter motor wire or the solenoid terminal (if attached) the starter motor will run.
If it has linked carbs you can manually rotate the cable wheel to open the throttles, if it's a really old one with four throttle cables you will need at least the cables and 4-1 splitter to get any useful throttle action (pull on the cable end...).