Topic: Looks like I need new timing points for my 550K

[jbswearingen]

Well, with a timing light, I'm able to get the 1/4 cylinders to fire right at the F mark at idle, and advanced properly at 2500rpm.

BUT, it seems that no matter how far I retard the 2/3 points assembly, it's still firing a few degrees before the F mark lines up and at before the advanced markers at 2500rpm.

Should I replace both pieces, just the one, or the whole plate?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Are both sets of points properly gapped when the cam follower is on the heal of the cam (points fully open).  That has to be right first before attempting to time the points.

Assuming you did get them gapped correctly before attempting to time them, then it does sound like 2.3 is either eroded at the contacts or the cam follower is warn.  New points are fairly cheap, so replace them both.  When you install the new ones, clean them by soaking a business card (white part) with brake cleaner, close the points on the card and draw the card out.  Continue until you don't see any more streaking on the card.

[jbswearingen]

As far as I can tell they're fully open.  Is there a marking point that shows where they should be fully open?

Should I set the timing plate to a certain point BEFORE I set the gaps, like centered on the screw slots?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

First, check the points faces.  They should be clean and shiny and free of pitting.  If pitted, get a points file (or metal fingernail file) and file off the pitting.  If dirty or if freshly filed, soak a white business card in brake cleaner and press the card between the points.  Draw the card out.  Repeat until the card no longer shows streaks.

Now you are ready to set the gap.  When you rotate the crank by hand, watch the points.  You will see that they are at max open.  When they are, loosen the screw holding the 1.4 points to the main plate until it's just snug.  Use the blade of the screwdriver between the two posts and the notch in the points frame to open/close the gap..  Adjust to between .012 and .016 inches (if memory serves).  Tighten the points screw back down.

Repeat with other points.  This time, loosen the screw between the points frame and the sub-plate.

Now that BOTH points are gapped, loosen the three screws holding the main plate.  Time the 1.4 points.  When satisfied, tighten the plate down again. 

Now, for the 2.3 points.  They ride on a sub-plate.  Loosen the screws that hold the sub-plate to the main plate and time the 2.3 points set.

There is also an FAQ section here that may explain this all a bit clearer.

[jbswearingen]

Oh yeah, went through all that just as you described (following the Clymer manual to set the points).  Even have a timing light.

Unfortunately, I can't retard the 2.3 points enough to get them to fire at the right time.

[gene03079]

I just installed the Dyna system on my 550 this week. Got rid of the points and it runs much better. Best move I have made. Much better spark now and easy to set up. I ordered mine from Z1 and had it in 2 days.

[jbswearingen]

Yeah, the Dyna is the way to go, if you ask me...But it's not my bike.  It's to be the first bike of a girlfriend.  Once she's sure she'll love riding (I'm pretty sure she will), the $150 pill might not be so hard to swallow.  As it is, new tires, cables, and other such goodies need to be replaced.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

You stated that you know you need to replace the points.  Others have jumped on suggesting you go with an all electronic ignition.  There is a third option.

A member here, HondaMan (Mark) builds an ignition amplifier.  What this little gem does is, instead of the entire current load from your coils passing through your points, the amplifier send only a minute trickle to the points.  This reduced load extends the life of your points dramatically!  If you install new points with the amplifier, then your grandchild will be the next person to replace them!

The slick part about Mark's system, in my humble opinion, is that if the amplifier fails, you can reverse the wiring and be back to stock points in under a minute (a few seconds if you get the deluxe model 2 version of the amplifier that has the rewire built into a switch!).

True, I don't hear a lot of complaints about the all electronic systems failing roadside, but if it did, you are pretty much done for unless you carry a spare.  At $100 plus, it's not really something I would carry, that's for sure.

[TwoTired]

Oh yeah, went through all that just as you described (following the Clymer manual to set the points).  Even have a timing light.

Unfortunately, I can't retard the 2.3 points enough to get them to fire at the right time.

Check out:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=5752.msg47539#msg47539

You might have a loose main plate, worn points rubbing block, or both.  I sometimes shim the main plate to get the 1-4 points nearer the center of the adjustment slots, and then find that the 2-3 has enough range to adjust timing properly.

Cheers,