Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[MCRider]

Good job Ron, I'll be interested in seeing how that ring goes back on, I have to restore a couple of gauges soon, and I've been putting it off because I'm a little leary of that ring. I wonder if a little pack of silica glued to the inside bottom of the gauges would work to remove any moisture? From memory there is a thin seal between the two case halves of each gauge. Cheers, Terry.    

I'll post the thread I'm using as a guide once I find it again. The whole thing was like alchemy to me, having grown up with the idea they were not to be serviced by mortals. The ring is to folded back over using a duckbill style needlenose pliar. One puts padding on the bill that touches the part of the ring that is exposed, and the other jaw folds the ring back over the instument. Should be straightforward, and one should go around the instrument 2 to 4 times folding the ring a little each time so that no distortions appear in the exposed part of the ring. Besides this one I have 4 more to practice on.

My need is that I have an assumed good K1 speedo that needs a new face and could stand a new housing. One of my spare instruments has a near perfect housing. If i replace the speedo face, I'll need to replace the tach face so they match. (Even tho the tach is pristine NOS K1) So the thought came to me to buy K0 faces. No red mark on the speedo and an 8500 redline (more appropriate) on the tach. K1 housings with K0 faces should be conversation starters.

Seems to be plenty of room in the tach anyway for a dessicant bag. Interesting idea. There is no seal on the tach I pulled apart. The housing came away from the metal base with no resistance at all.

[mystic_1]

Silica desiccant only absorbs moisture until the beads are saturated.  Once they are, they need to be dried out again before they will re-absorb moisture.  You can do this by heating them gently.

mystic_1

[MCRider]

Silica desiccant only absorbs moisture until the beads are saturated.  Once they are, they need to be dried out again before they will re-absorb moisture.  You can do this by heating them gently.

mystic_1

Since they would be permanentlly installed in the instrument, would they dry themselves out? When the ambient conditions would allow?

Better than nothing?

[Retro Rocket]

Hi Ron, if they release the moisture inside they will could just fog the gauges ? or even attract moisture from outside that isn't normally getting in...Just thinking out loud...

Mick

[MCRider]

Hi Ron, if they release the moisture inside they will could just fog the gauges ? or even attract moisture from outside that isn't normally getting in...Just thinking out loud...

Mick

Good points. I think the real fix is simply better faces. I think the original faces were sub-par. It was a new design instrument and they probably went with a new process for the faces and they just didn't hold up. I think the replacement faces are better, we'll see.  As I'd mentioned I clearly remember ordering in new instruments to replace ones that were cracked and faded under warranty, and the warranty on CB750s back then was only 12 months! I worked in Ft lauderdale for a while and Tucson for a while, both have long riding seasons and plenty of sun. Other locals probably weren't hit as hard as the bikes were indoors more. Took more than a year for the faces to crack and fade.

[MCRider]

here's one link of many I've reviewed before doing this. the tach is much easier than the speedo, but both are doable obviously.

http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/speedo/spedo1.htm

And another which has others in it:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=61527.0

Still looking for the one with the paint can opener. By far the best tool to at least get started with. I had to finish with a thick screwdriver.

Ah here it is, but the pictures have been moved, or at least they don't show up to me.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=58003.0

[MCRider]

Terry, yes indeedy do, there is a seal between the black housing and the steel body. (For others edification) the black housing has a lip where it sets on the steel housing, which also has a lip. The steel ring clamps on these two lips and the black housing and the steel body become one. The seal is a black, flat, probably rubber, ring, which stayed with the black housing on removal and is not particularly obvious. One could put s VERY thin bead of silicone or what ever there if so desired. Or not, doesn't seem to be anything there from the factory.

[MCRider]

No update to speak of this week. Swamped at work and gotta get some relief. I was going to miss next Sunday on a vacation, but we've cancelled that in favor of quiet time at home.

I did get down the Earl's Indy aka Earl's Performance Plumbing on Gasoline Alley. What a pretty store, no other way to call it. Neat, bright, shelve's stocked, work rooms clean and everything shiny with vibrant colors. No I wasn't having a flashback. Well... maybe...  

I'd gone to get some DIY parts for my brakelines. Turns out I have AN4 from Phaedrus I and all the new stuff is AN3, a slightly smaller diameter. I would like to use the old lines if possible for old times sake. They did have some parts I could use, stright in adapters and banjos, but not what i would like. They recommended converting to AN3 which is a possibility, but other than parts availability, no good reason. Till I decide, I'm still ... well... deciding.

I had asked our own pampadori at http://www.slingshot-cycles.com/ about a set. He declined as my request was too far from the norm for him to be comforoctabledoing long distance. I appreciate and respect that. No reason you shouldn't give him a shout for SS brake lines.

[MCRider]

Another day in the shop. 25 outside, heaters warmed to 55. Much warmer temps on way when I'll be able to do some soda blasting that has been delayed.

I got down to Earl's Performance Plumbing on the quest of exactly what I want for hose routing. I needed one more fitting and 3 inches trimmed from current hose. Before pic.


After"

That's at full extension, with a little weight on it it will be slightly more relaxed


From many angles, hoses not obvious. Installation now complete and ready to bleed.

Worked on wiring the LED Bullet turnsignals, found the pieces i need, and practiced soldering on scrap before going to final. I may want to remove the TS from the bike to do this. Using heat shrink over the mend.

More later.

[MCRider]

Removed the TS, cut the stems down, stripped and soldered proper colored male ends to plug into the new harness. Impressed with lamp quality, nice design, can't wait to see them lit. I need to review, I need some sort of special flasher or resister for the LEDs?

Had been procrastinating getting this done, not too confident with things like solder and wiring. Took the prod from Terry in Oz to solder them and use heatshrink wrap. But finally jumped in and all's well. Sample joints could hold a 10lb barbell.



Turn signal wiring complete:

Tip, use a heat gun on the heat shrink tubing, not a lighter. Its more uniform and complete.
Sample emblems from mycb750k6 for experimentation.


answered the question will soda blasting the black paint off hurt the plastic chrome? Answ: No.



Soda Blasted the shift drum and shift forks. They had picked up some surface rust from humidity in the garage. Bruce cleaned them and oiled them and bagged them to prevent further rust. I should have done this to begin with as this is the second time I've blasted them. Of course the real fix is to get them installed which is likely for next week. Along with making wires for the tailight. I've replaced the broken K2 fender with a new OEM K0 fender, bot when they were still available 10 years ago, its shorter than the K2 along with the smaller taillight.

[Zaipai]

Looks like a great job on the wiring. I like those lights also. Not sure about the flasher relay tho.. Hopefully some one that has done it can help you with that...

.: Scott :.

[Raef]

Not for sure, but I think the electronic flashers you can buy at the auto parts store will work with the LEDs.

I know they are much more consistent even with the irregular voltage out put of our machines, the turn signals flash at the same rate all the time.

Mark

[MCRider]

Not for sure, but I think the electronic flashers you can buy at the auto parts store will work with the LEDs.

I know they are much more consistent even with the irregular voltage out put of our machines, the turn signals flash at the same rate all the time.

Mark

Thansk, Z & R; I've actually bot a "3 prong" flasher from a forum member, supposed to be the ticket, but its so long ago, I forget the details, but I may be good to go. If not, someone here or the place I got the signals from will help I'm sure.

[wannabridin]

just hop over to superbrightleds.com or an equivalent website.  they have load equalizer/resistor (that's what you're looking for  ) and flashers in stock and even have some small ones.  all they do is make the circuit think you have a halogen in there to delay the timer.  i take it you don't like the hectic flashing of a system without it?

scroll to the bottom of this page: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html

and you'll see them.  super fast shipping there, prices aren't the lowest, but they customer service is great!

[MCRider]

18 deg F outside, but the shop came up to 50 so another session completed. Finished the taillight wiring. Having converted from K2 monster light to the petite K0-K1 I needed wires from scratch. Thanks to Terry for shaming me into learning how to solder and trim with shrinktube. I've soldered more joints this week and last than I have in my entire life. Hope they transmit electrons.


Cleaned up the shop and uncovered the bottom end, again. We last stalled out on the bottom end for lack of an ORing. Having bot the ORing, and a whole gasket set, we're all set. But I couldn't find the ORing in question. CycleX supplied it in a baggie separate from the gasket set. I couldn't find that baggie anywhere. That's the problem with projects that get delayed for weeks and months. Finally found it in the last place we looked. (The drawer where i usually keep ORings. I didn't think I had put it there.)  So we reviewed the stack on the countershaft, at first thinking the circlips and thrust washers were backwards. But no. But time ran out. Hope to get back out and make all final installs prior to clamping the cases together. I'll wait till next Sunday so Bruce can be part of that monumental event.

Oh yeah, a couple of questions:
There is a red/white wire with a male lead on it. Where is its home? Book says it goes to the rectifier, but I don't see how.
And... why does my flasher not have a home? Doesn't matter it can just hang, but I'm curious.


And finally:
Ding Ding Ding. The Phaedrus thread now has the most hits of any Project Thread. we just passed the thread of doug_id and his beautiful CB550 cafe.
This event has an asterisk as he finished his project much faster than I will have. And to his credit his thread concluded in July 2007, but is still registering hits in the multi hundreds, month after month.

[Raef]

she's gonna be a nice ride...
                                     ..........your patience and attention to detail is an inspiration.


I'm gonna have to come down and witness one of these sunday jam sessions, and bring Shea


Mark

[MCRider]

she's gonna be a nice ride...
                                     ..........your patience and attention to detail is an inspiration.


I'm gonna have to come down and witness one of these sunday jam sessions, and bring Shea


Mark

Thanks, and you'd be welcome anytime. Let me know in advance in case it might not be happening that Sunday. Might want to wait till its warmer though. We had to come in and warm our toes about halfway thru. Even tho the air temp is tolerable the floor will suck it out of you, even with a pad.

ITs not so much a "jam". We, meaning I, am particularly slow worker. Good thing I didn't choose wrenching as a career.

[Really?]

Momma's flasher did not have a home either but the PO had his day in there.  WoW, that just don't sound right!     For momma's there is something called a suspension that was supposed to hold it.  Does not look obtainable.

[MCRider]

Momma's flasher did not have a home either but the PO had his day in there.  WoW, that just don't sound right!    For momma's there is something called a suspension that was supposed to hold it.  Does not look obtainable.

Isn't that weird? I'm racking my brain to remember what was used to hang the flasher before. I've got a new harness and the battery box and the electrics bracket may not be original, I've lost track. Still its weird there's no place for the flasher.

Anyway, I have to use a different shape flasher with the LED turnsignals, so a tactically placed zip tie should do the trick.

Still wondering about the wire above the starter solenoid with the red sheath on it. Its a red/white wire but you can't tell in the picture. Can't remember where it goes.

[Really?]

Not sure Ron but that might go into the POS battery cable.  I am at work, boy has been in the Hospital all weekend so I have not seen the house much recently.  When I do, i will confirm what I have done.

[MCRider]

Thanks that's got to be it, red and white female and in the right place. Is that for sale? I'm sure I have the original one in a box but I'll have to find a nice fresh one.  Thanks puts my mind at ease.

[Really?]

I got it at BB and put it on with momma's new harness.  So, that particular one is in use. 

[Col Casco]

After Tipper's post about the cable I checked Bike Bandit and they have the 'suspension' for the flasher in the same parts diagram as that cable.  It's a little rubber thing that hangs off a tab on the battery box.  Cheap enough, if it'll still work with your new flasher.

edit :  My bad, there's a price but no way to enter quantity.  Unobtainable seems to be the case.

[MCRider]

After Tipper's post about the cable I checked Bike Bandit and they have the 'suspension' for the flasher in the same parts diagram as that cable.  It's a little rubber thing that hangs off a tab on the battery box.  Cheap enough, if it'll still work with your new flasher.

edit :  My bad, there's a price but no way to enter quantity.  Unobtainable seems to be the case.

Thanks for trying. You can see in my picture the flasher is in the rubber "suspension" which has the flap that hangs off a tab on the battery box. Its the tab that I can't find!    

Guess if i can't use my suspension, I can sell it for "big bucks"?   

[Zaipai]

And finally:
Ding Ding Ding. The Phaedrus thread now has the most hits of any Project Thread. we just passed the thread of doug_id and his beautiful CB550 cafe.
This event has an asterisk as he finished his project much faster than I will have. And to his credit his thread concluded in July 2007, but is still registering hits in the multi hundreds, month after month.

Dang, passed up by "INSPIRATION GALLERY "...

.: Scott :.