Author Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video (Read 868700 times)

MCRider · « **Reply #325 on:** February 08, 2009, 04:20:23 PM »

Today's' session opened some new cans of worms, and proceeded with others.

I got an angle grinder at Terry's prodding and went to town.

What I like about this $40 model is the slim extended handle. The less expensive models have you holding the motor which is a thicker more difficult place to hold. It also has a trigger style on/off, the others have a thumb slide switch. The trigger allows me to turn it off and grind during the slowdown. Although once i got used to it, I could grind full speed. As he mentioned, it makes quick work of smoothing welds and grinding stuff.

Smoothing...

This lug needs to be ground down to facilitate engine install:

Like this

I realized earlier this week, reading funjimmy's thread, that I needed to think about my ignition switch placement. He made a really fine bracket. The stocker goes under the tank, left front. Virtually every early 70's CB750 was converted to a handlebar mount using a flat steel bracket, including mine. But I was never happy with that. And now I have a chance to move it back down to the original place, by mounting it in the front gusset, like this:

The small hole I drilled is where it will go. I'll have to have Saldana mill it out as I can't touch the steel they used.
Another "upgrade" used with the handlebar mounted switched were these "toilet seat covers" they mount on the switch and cover them from the elements.

Finally, I'm thinking of what I want to send to Brown's to have plated. My swingarm, my rear axle/washer/nut, and then I though what about my headlight stays, they were kinda rough even though new, last time I looked. The headlight shell is mirror chrome and the stays need to match.

My buddy didn't like them and admittedly they are kinda 70s chopperish and not much to look at at. I had bought some of these aluminum (billet?) stays off eBay. They are way trick, but being polished aluminum, not matching the shell either.

He suggested having them chromed. I always had this thought that you can't chrome aluminum, but of course that is wrong, so that's what I'll do. Brown's says they'll make it match the bucket.

Step by Step.

DarkRider · « **Reply #326 on:** February 08, 2009, 05:17:44 PM »

Looking great so far man. Looking forward to seeing what else you do with this thing.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #327 on:** February 08, 2009, 05:21:19 PM »

Hi MC, i was just looking at the frame brace near where you are going to mount your ignition and i was thinking, why not cut a hole in the brace and mount the ignition there. I think it would look great and it would almost be in the correct place.......just an idea....

Mick

MCRider · « **Reply #328 on:** February 08, 2009, 05:25:57 PM »

Quote from: retro rocket on February 08, 2009, 05:21:19 PM

Hi MC, i was just looking at the frame brace near where you are going to mount your ignition and i was thinking, why not cut a hole in the brace and mount the ignition there. I think it would look great and it would almost be in the correct place.......just an idea....

Mick

Sorry for the confusion, that is what I'm going to do. The little pilot hole in that brace is the location. I don't have anything to make the hole bigger, my drill bits won't cut it, so I'll have that done outside.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #329 on:** February 08, 2009, 05:28:32 PM »

No worries mate, great minds think alike.....

Mick

MCRider · « **Reply #330 on:** February 08, 2009, 05:30:19 PM »

Quote from: retro rocket on February 08, 2009, 05:28:32 PM

No worries mate, great minds think alike.....

Mick

Yup! Hope you're safe.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #331 on:** February 08, 2009, 05:32:57 PM »

Thanks mate....all good here..

Mick

MCRider · « **Reply #332 on:** February 08, 2009, 05:45:16 PM »

I need a key number #T6879 to remove my fork lock. I would return it, or buy it. I have other locks with keys.

I must have one somewhere, but its not on the key ring, so lord only knows.

Ichiban 4 · « **Reply #333 on:** February 09, 2009, 12:43:01 AM »

Ron:

If you still can't find the key..try these folks: hondakeys.com, Mark Troxell (610) 967-3526. He seems to have keys for about any Honda from the early 60's to the early 80's. Just give him the key number below.

Cheers,

Al / Ichi

Ecosse · « **Reply #334 on:** February 09, 2009, 12:48:41 AM »

Quote from: Ichiban 4 on February 09, 2009, 12:43:01 AM

Ron:

If you still can't find the key..try these folks: hondakeys.com, Mark Troxell (610) 967-3526. He seems to have keys for about any Honda from the early 60's to the early 80's. Just give him the key number below.

Cheers,

Al / Ichi

I'll second this guy. He was great to deal with and I got two very nice keys that worked perfectly.

MCRider · « **Reply #335 on:** February 09, 2009, 03:01:39 PM »

Thanks everyone. I'll be getting a key from hondakeys.com.

MCRider · « **Reply #336 on:** February 10, 2009, 06:26:54 AM »

Now I need a pristine rear axle (washer less so, nut not necessary) for a CB750K2 or related bike.

The threaded end of mine is ground at an angle from a high speed get off. I bought one off eBay, but it has a nasty gouge in the bulb end from channel locks. There are more on eBay but I'm afraid they'll all be sub-standard.

I want to rechrome it, so bad finish is OK, just no gouges or tool marks..

Posted also in Parts Wanted.

MCRider · « **Reply #337 on:** February 17, 2009, 07:16:22 PM »

Not much new this week. Had to work over the weekend. Finally, did get my swingarm and fork ears to Brown's Plating along with a nasty gas cap latch (I shoulda got a picture) that 1jbooher threw in for good measure. I'll report back with pictures.

Been searching for a nice looking rear axle. Mine is ground down and spare is pitted. Bought one from eBay for 95 cents and $15 shipping. we'll see.

So, do I go with the original KO-K2 turnsignal,

or with the trimmer Lockhart/Phillip, which may not be period correct.

Compare:

Should get back to work Sunday coming up.

Ecosse · « **Reply #338 on:** February 17, 2009, 07:28:22 PM »

Blinkers, winders, and directionals.

Sorry, too much coffee.

If you want a stock-ish look I'd say go with OEM. What I plan to do with mine and may be fitting for your project is to keep the stock ones but with cut down stem.

This gives a cleaner look but not glaringly screaming aftermarket. That's not a bad thing depending on the larger goal; The other one you show is smart looking.

MCRider · « **Reply #339 on:** February 17, 2009, 07:38:47 PM »

Quote from: Ecosse on February 17, 2009, 07:28:22 PM

Blinkers, winders, and directionals.

Sorry, too much coffee.

If you want a stock-ish look I'd say go with OEM. What I plan to do with mine and may be fitting for your project is to keep the stock ones but with cut down stem.

This gives a cleaner look but not glaringly screaming aftermarket. That's not a bad thing depending on the larger goal; The other one you show is smart looking.

Years ago when i bought the LP style, i was all for em. But now... They don't seem to fit the theme.

I like the idea of OEM with shorter stem. The stem I'm showing was actually from the fronts. I don't remember what I had on the rears. I mean they were OEMs, but the stem?

I wonder if really short stems are available somewhere. Dennis Kirk or such.

andy750 · « **Reply #340 on:** February 18, 2009, 07:26:04 AM »

I have short stems from Yamiya on both my K2 and K4 - back and front...

K2:

K4:

I used these - from Yamiya...

Cheers
Andy

MCRider · « **Reply #341 on:** February 18, 2009, 05:47:48 PM »

Those would work. And your bikes look great!

In searching around I found a stem that might be shorter still at Dennis Kirk, but hard to tell in the pictures.

Then I ran across these. http://www.customdynamics.com/led_mini_bullets.htm scroll down a bit.

Bullet turn signals were around back then. I had them as extra taillights on my 1967 triumph chopper in 1970. I could weld tabs on the rack in back, solving my set back problem (I wanted the TS to sit back far enough to clear the soft saddlebags i occasionally use) and I could weld tabs on the tweak bar I'll be using, leaving the headlight ears in full view. Hmmm. Just controversial enough that people would say, i like those or I hate those.

Personally, I love them.

MCRider · « **Reply #342 on:** February 22, 2009, 03:24:42 PM »

Worked a bit, but shortened by family, work, and cold. I have a little low-level frostbite from a camping trip 30+ years ago. Tips of the toes. When they get cold, they start to hurt.

Nevertheless...we started to mock up the front wheel. Got the parts together, bolted the discs on temporary. But we couldn't find the front axle. I know its out there. Actually, I should have three. So that got stalled for now.

Started to mock up the front end. Broke out the fork tubes from Franks. 2" overstock to make up for the smaller front wheel and to have a little more capacity for the air forks. Don't know if that'll make a difference, just a shot in the dark.

Got a key from HondaKeys.com to remove the fork lock barrel. We decided that the fork lock will be sacrificed entirely to allow the tweak bar to tuck up tight to the lower tree. It looks like two small welds need to be cut and the holder for the fork lock will come free.

I never used the fork lock in the past as I always have a full tank bag on board and the fork wouldn't go all the way. I used a cable or disc lock.

Lots of discussion and contemplation about the turn signals. I've decided on Kuryakyn Bullits with the grooves. The grooves will carry the theme of all the parts that are ribbed and finned. (Kinda like spikes, ever seen that before?

)

http://www.customdynamics.com/led_mini_bullets.htm Scrolling down, the first picture is the lights, way down at the bottom are the fork clamp mounts, that would sit right on top of the lower tree on the tubes. The rears will mount on a bracket that mounts on the license plate holder. I'll be using a new K0 fender (already purchased) and light (bidding war on eBay). The K0 fender is shorter than later models, the light is smaller, which i like.

Removed all pieces, lower tree, new roller bearings in stem, etc. Now with some more grinding and smoothing the frame will be ready for the Powder Coater. Had to get all mounting decisions made beforehand, and that's done now.

The swingarm is at Brown's for plating. Once returned, it goes straight to HondaMan with new collar for his treatment. The rear end is very close to being ready for assembly. I'm high bidder on a pristine rear axle. Then we'll concentrate on the forks.

step by step.

Ecosse · « **Reply #343 on:** February 22, 2009, 05:41:03 PM »

Looking rather cool there! Like the directionals you chose too.

Real nice to see the parts getting closer to looking like what will be quite a head turner.

MCRider · « **Reply #344 on:** February 22, 2009, 05:48:41 PM »

Thanks, looking like I won't get back to the engine in a serious way till spring. But I hope to have it on its wheels in a few months.

DarkRider · « **Reply #345 on:** February 22, 2009, 07:01:36 PM »

Glad to see you didnt use the LP units. I have them on my Interceptor and i regret getting them now that i have had them on the bike for awhile. Upside is they are the alloy ones like yours but this is just a hint to anyone looking at the plastic bodied LP lights DO NOT buy them for your vintage Honda. The Parking light is too high of voltage and will over heat and melt the light. Learned from experience this is why i have the Alloy lights on my bike. Now im seriously considering going back with stock lights and getting aftermarket clear lenses.

Joel · « **Reply #346 on:** February 22, 2009, 07:09:22 PM »

I've been looking for those alloy Lockhart Phillips signals with clear lenses but haven't found any online. Any good sources for them?

MCRider · « **Reply #347 on:** February 22, 2009, 07:32:12 PM »

Thanks DarkRider. I have a modern bike and a semi-modern bike, so I think the Bullits will go good on my oldie.

Interesting about the plastic LP lights.

Joel, I've looked too and can't find the lights I have, they may be outdated, nor any clear lenses.

I have 4 new LP alloy lights with amber lenses if interested.

And a pair of black plastic.

DarkRider · « **Reply #348 on:** February 22, 2009, 08:21:10 PM »

I have the Alloy lights with clear lenses on my bike and i need to replace the front pair since one of them the wires ripped out but i think thats due to the idiot mechanic that installed them for me...How much would you want for that set you have MC? are they the 3 or 2 wire lights? if anything i can always rebuild the ones on my bike if i got another pair of them cheep

hopterfixer · « **Reply #349 on:** February 23, 2009, 03:16:54 AM »

I have those Lockhart Phillips aluminum bodied turn signals with clear lenses on my bike. My complaint is that the amber bulbs in that size are not easy to find. I bought mine off of e-bay, I think they were listed as V-max turn signals. I pulled the bulbs out of mine and made LED boards for them, I will try and get a photo uploaded sometime.

News:

Author Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video (Read 868700 times)