Author Topic: Rebuild for Dummies Redux - v2.0, Mulligan (Read 62095 times)

Hush · « **Reply #25 on:** September 13, 2008, 01:15:26 PM »

Hey dude, nice project and really really pleased to see you are not of the find an old bike and chop it into something no one else will ever want brigade, sorry my preference for restore rather than modify coming out.
Those wires only appear to come together at the turn signal switch on my diagrams!
I looked at the flasher relay but it has green/white and dark green wires going to it.
Watching your rebuild with interest....Hush in New Zealand.

ev0lve · « **Reply #26 on:** September 13, 2008, 01:27:09 PM »

Hi Hush! I'm not really doing many mods. Really just the handlebars and that's a bit of a fiasco with the Daytonas. It seems there's a good reason to do a dry fit and I found out the hard way as the MC collides nicely with the triple tree. They will have to go to be replaced either with clubmans or Daytonas turned upright ( I'm not fond of the straight bars ).

Other than that though, the more I looked at the bike after I got it the more I really like the lines so thoughts of changing it around too much have disappeared (other than painting the jugs and replacing the handlebars... maybe a seat and the exhaust has to go eventually). When (if?) I get the motor running nicely I have some progressive springs to put in and seals to fix and we'll see if I have the gumption for tapered bearings

Iggy

Hush · « **Reply #27 on:** September 13, 2008, 01:46:10 PM »

If you mean the tapered steering head bearings they are a piece of pie even to a clutz like me, did mine no worries and got rid of that strange centering catch.
Thought it was like self steering at first and counted it as a plus until I looked a bit harder, put your bike on the centre stand (only be in hospital a week if you get it wrong) and gently move the handle bars in a full arc.
If they catch right in the middle then the bearings are coozed and have to come out.

ev0lve · « **Reply #28 on:** September 13, 2008, 01:52:00 PM »

THAT is good to hear. I was reading some threads where folks were having spacer issues and problems with races and so on. The top of my triple tree is cracked (I didn't do it

) so I have a replacement ready to go but didn't want to go all the way to the bearings if it was going to be Trouble®.

Did you make a thread for that particular fun?

Looks like he did:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=36470.0

and KirkN did a nice writeup as well
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=28405.0

ev0lve · « **Reply #29 on:** September 13, 2008, 11:49:43 PM »

Quote from: Iggy on September 08, 2008, 09:40:18 AM

Also, these bars will hit the tank if I don't rig something up to reduce the travel. Has anyone made steering stops and could you tell me how or point me at a thread? Searching for "steering stop" doesn't bring anything up.

Seems there's stuff out there if you look hard enough

Found via "clubman"
With Pics
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=2835.msg20639#msg20639
Drill and tap
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=24215.0
Fit - these look like BikeMasters
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=2802.msg20641#msg20641
'77 CB550F Cafe Project - Starting with Fork Swap
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=27159.msg278851#msg278851

Just for my information - now back to pondering #1

ev0lve · « **Reply #30 on:** September 16, 2008, 09:10:30 PM »

Got up to my Pop's place this morning intent on figuring out why #1 wasn't firing (no compression? Intake not intaking? Bad coil?), pulled the plug and made SURE the ring at the base was touching some metal. Wolla! Spark!

So take that out of the equation. 4 cylinders of L-O-V-E.

I noticed prior to redoing the carbs (seems that either of the methods above work fine IF you adjust the idle screw properly while setting the adjusters - MUST - READ - INSTRUCTIONS so as to unnerstand and such) that 3 and 4 were running hot and I could have SWORE the header for 1 was cool to the touch on the previous go around. #1's plug shows signs of actually doing some combustion work this morning as well. Perhaps the 750 fairy came and fixed it... At any rate, if someone has an idea what transpired there I'm ready to learn.

Edit:
Reading some other folks threads who lapped their valves like I did seemed to have the same kind of issue until the valves settled in. Looking at the wetness of the #1 plug I'm thinking that was the issue and running it made the seal. Don't really know but seems plausible.

Upshot being I redid the bench sync and threw on the airbox and everything seems to be right now. No oil leaks (thank you HD studs), a little clatter I think adjusting the valves will solve and, after letting the boots sit under a work light for an hour, no real problems getting the carbs back on the boots (I persuaded them using the rubber mallet in the earlier videos and a chunk of wood). Very pleased. Except...

Who can tell me about carb sync tools? I bought the Motion Pro Sync Pro and I'm wondering if I made a mistake and should have gotten real vacuum gauges.

Basically I assembled it per the instructions; restrictors in the tubes, turn out the adjusters, hook up the manifold, plug it into the vacuum port of 1 to attempt calibration, start bike. Immediately the first 2 tubes fluid suck up into the hose and the other 2 are way high. Looks like the fluid is a goner for those two.

Did I do it wrong? The restrictors are in and level in the hose. I even cut them out and placed them again? WTH? Did I throw a $100 away on this tool? Anyone have experience with this gauge?

Aftermath attached and thanks for any advice.

ev0lve · « **Reply #31 on:** September 19, 2008, 04:27:15 PM »

On the MotionPro SyncPro

Found this post over at ADVRider
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=351791

suggesting that MP had some production flaws so I gave MP a call and they tell me my serial isn't in that range. They suggest using a hemostat when hooking it all up and if they're cheap enough I will or I'll just rig something up (fingers?

) and also are sending out a refill kit free of charge. Nice folks to chat with.

They also pointed me at a series of tech articles and movies which I think I'll go read now.
http://www.motionpro.com/tech/main.php

Edit: Pretty generic stuff. Seems like good info but mostly a chance for MP to upsell related tools.

ev0lve · « **Reply #32 on:** September 23, 2008, 02:49:15 PM »

Might as well start accumulating rearset info while I wait for parts

FunJimmys bracket kicks some small amount of ass
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=27159.msg286266#msg286266

Carpy's rearset setup - Tarozzis?
http://www.cb750cafe.com/parts.php?id=50
http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/viewpart.do?id=109

Rearset discussion
http://www.caferacer.net/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7379

Rearset discussion
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=43906.0

Clamps & welded tab for brake
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=34620.0

Holy Crap - that's a bracket!
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=1470.0

MountainBike Stems as clamp replacements - pretty slick
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=34781.msg441887#msg441887

More thoughts on the stem from CafeRacer.net
http://www.caferacer.net/forums/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=8798

Drill the frame - hold me. I'm scared
http://www.caferacer.net/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6960

Raask installed - bracket mount
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=3995.0

Franken rearsets
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=4495.0

Welded tabs/spacers - U.G.L.Y
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6821.0

Now that's nice - Welded tabs/Hayabusa
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=45976.msg481499#msg481499

Yamaha R6 rearsets post
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=38242.msg481130#msg481130

Hayabusa post
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=38242.msg485544#msg485544
______________________________________________________________

Mmmmmmm, Tarozzis. I may just give up on the custom fabbed rear-sets. I mean, look at these. Maybe not though. Maybe just steal the mounting ideas?

Well... for after I get the thing out of the garage.

Edit - Quick thought: If I'm willing to go this far back and up why not just use the hayabusa rearsets (assuming I could get them cheap) and some frame clamps? Fast from the Past has plenty of the bits required fairly cheap
http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-Rearset-Parts/Categories

Just guestimating it the Hayabusa's are 60 - 100, rods and connectors probably another 60 and 4 frame clamps at around 40, someone to weld on the tab for the brake, puts the whole procedure around $200 + - plus fiddling time. The Tarozzi's look pretty good at 295 and an hour or so monkeying around.

Well, I'll get a chance to hang my feet in that position this weekend and see if it's good, bad or ugly.

Edit: After getting on the bike with my feet in the position these would be in I think that's too high. Still just want to move them back about 3 inches but not up.

Not cheap, but what is

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-390/Rearsets-Folding-Knurled-Footpegs/Detail
http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-294/Rearsets-Folding-Rubber-Footpegs/Detail
http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-203/Rearsets--Fixed-Knurled/Detail
http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-110/Rearsets--Fixed-Rubber/Detail

Someone just posted a request for Dunstall rearsets and what do you know... more ideas
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=47566.0

Same location on the frame. Some pipe fittings and a chunk of steel and I might be able to mount them up any which way.

tbpmusic · « **Reply #33 on:** September 23, 2008, 02:54:39 PM »

Quote from: Iggy on September 16, 2008, 09:10:30 PM

Who can tell me about carb sync tools? I bought the Motion Pro Sync Pro and I'm wondering if I made a mistake and should have gotten real vacuum gauges.
Did I throw a $100 away on this tool? Anyone have experience with this gauge?

Gauges suck - they're REAL twitchy.

Good manometers are the way to go - no jumping around and twitching, they're very stable, easy to read.

Call Motion Pro and complain - they'll make it right.

bill2

ev0lve · « **Reply #34 on:** September 23, 2008, 03:13:29 PM »

I called em. They suggested the hemostat. But I'm glad to hear I "should" be able to make these work and that the $100 eBay gauges would have sucked ... blown ... whatever.

There's nothing particularly special that needed to happen on the carbs prior to trying to calibrate them? Since they were hooked up to the manifold about the only thing I can imagine going wrong there were the restrictors but even that should be pretty hard to botch I would've thought.

ev0lve · « **Reply #35 on:** September 24, 2008, 12:21:14 PM »

And start collecting paint threads as the tank is a mess of gas discoloration (tried to rub it out and ended up with bare metal) and dents.

Looks like VHT epoxy is the go to brand

Random quotes:

Quote

something no one has mentioned yet which i think is crucial when using a spray bomb is that you should shake the cans for at least 10 minutes and SOAK the can with the cap on in the hottest tap water you can get for about 10-15 minutes.....you can even heat the water on the stove or in the microwave for a while if your tap doesn't get too hot. by soaking the cans in the hot water you raise the internal pressure of the can and get much better and even coats.

Quote

As far as self etching primer goes, you only need to make one or two coats right on top of the metal itself, after that you can switch to filler primer.

Filler primer is much thicker in viscosity and can hide some of the imperfections in body filler and the transitions of body filler to metal. NOTICE: I said some imperfections and I mean very small imperfections, it will not cover up F ups in body work! I always use filler primer on body work!"

Quote

The paint can feel "dry" and not be cured, the reason it wrinkles is due to the difference in cure rates from the layer that was sprayed at an earlier time than the top layer. You can do as I said and lay the last coat of color, then follow with clear as long as you do it in the time frame I stated. Once you go over about 20 to 25 minutes since your last coat, you must stop and wait for curing or you will wind up with undesirable results!

PreVal aerosol kit - spray whatever you want without a compressor
http://www.preval.com/

Custom color in a can

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_matched.aspx
Wonder if they'll mix up some Planet Blue in a can?

Hard to argue with this guys results one way or another

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=12994.msg164386#msg164386

Quote

I ordered it from Automotive touch up: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/buypaint.aspx

They will put any base color from a factory vehicle in a spray can, I get my base coat and primer from theses guys. This color is from a 2009 Porsche. Usually takes 2 cans of spray paint at $18 each to shoot a bike, but it is good to have an extra can.

For clear I use: SPRAYMAX 2K GLAMOUR HIGH GLOSS CLEARCOAT SPRAY CAN
I will use to cans of this to seal everything up.

Quote

the paint on the frame is a base coat of self etching hi build rustoleum primer covered with rustoleum flat black(2 coats) covered with rustoleum flat clear enamel.

VHT Nightshade
http://www.vhtpaint.com/niteshades.html

And finally, yoinks! $75 bucks for tank trim and decals - each.
http://www.vintagehondapaint.com/Site/DECALS_%26_NOS_PARTS.html

Hmmm, my gas tank has a leak along the bottom after falling off my impromptu stand (bungee that thing down dammit!). Closer inspection reveals 5 gobs of Permatex down there as well. Considered trying to solder up the holes but thinking a $30 known good tank makes more sense since I was going to repaint anyway and if there's 5 holes there'll be more.

Here's what folks in the know said re: pinhole leaks
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=41272

ev0lve · « **Reply #36 on:** September 24, 2008, 12:55:53 PM »

And info on lacing and truing rims

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=485208
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-219833.html

Ultimately the instructions I'm using
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=368.msg205745#msg205745

Well, this guy makes it look easy

And this guy makes it look not quite so easy

Maybe I'll just replace the broken spokes and call it a day

Edit: Or maybe I won't be able to resist the shiny new spokes and have to do it anyways

For any noob happening by and reading this lacing the rim is easy. After getting all the spokes in the right holes (take pics of your rim for reference) the only hassle I ran into was not keeping track of where the spokes were pointing as I put the nipples on one by one and ended up with a few under or over others. Not a big deal. Just had to undo a few to get them in the proper configuration. Took maybe 20 minutes.

Now trueing. That can't be done by eye and the crayon method was beyond my abilities.

So get yourself a dial gauge. I got one from Harbor Freight (measured in 1/100 inch increments - damn, need to pay attention to that kind of stuff as it's not hard to figure out the conversion to mm .04 but why? I mean it's made in CHINA - why inches?!) but I'm not in love with the base (cylinders with a wire you tighten up mounted to a vice grip) although HF sells the gauge and armature separately as well. Grizzly makes a full kit with armature that looks like the better deal and it's what the guy in the second video has in another of his videos (check it out if you want to see him blow a cylinder at SIR - Now Pacific Raceways).

Mine works fine though but the armature looks easier to deal with.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9849

Also, get the spoke wrenches. I was using an adjustable wrench and it almost drove me crazy. Should be able to get a few hours to work on it here by Wednesday and I'll post anything interesting not covered above on getting it trued.

Edit: I got this spoke wrench

.

It's fine but I think the longer thinner ones would be preferred. Something with just a tad more leverage and a little more positive grip on the nipple (insert Beavis and or Butthead comment here). I munged one of the nipples and I think the style wrenches below would be better.

Damn, this thing reads like a blog

Some pics attached

Edit: 10.4

EPIC FAIL!
Well, I tried. And tried. And then tried again. First time I couldn't get the hop out of the rim and ended up with a 5mm oval runout. Turned all the nipples out to one thread and started over. Better but couldn't get the hop under 2mm and the wobble less than 3 and ended up making what I thought were proper corrections but would throw the rim out elsewhere. Start over again. Seems to be going well till I hit the 2mm wall and things fall apart. Something like 12 -14 hours overall into truing this rim with no postive results except a deeper understanding of my limitations

I may give it another try as there are dual brakes and lines and bars to be drilled and then get back to the carb sync. But I think I may just have to hand this one to a professional and meekly beg to witness them performing their black art.

Urrrg. Geometry.

Edit: 11.5

So I got the rims up to Everett Power Sports and dropped them off. Got a call this afternoon with them telling me the rear has some cracks in it such that it will never be true. I'm a little conflicted whether to feel good about that as I'll get to buy a new/used rear rim. Heck with it. I'm gonna feel good it couldn't be done, get a new rim and see if I can get it trued myself this time

Edit: 11.9
Got the rim back and had a look on Friday. There are indeed crack lengthwise along the holes the spokes go into. They weren't there when I took it in and the guys at Everett Power Sports didn't touch it soooooo... I have to come to the conclusion that I tightened the spokes WAY over spec and fubared my own, probably fine, rim which I'll now have to replace. This one I give up for all the enthusiastic noobs out there. Beware

Pic attached.

ev0lve · « **Reply #37 on:** September 30, 2008, 12:08:45 AM »

Fork removal
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/frkng/frkng.htm

Getting them off is easy too minus any battles with rust. The only thing I can add that hasn't been run over a bazillion times is if your forks are rusted and stuck in the triple tree the Sears brand impact driver makes a perfect drift

Now I just need to rebuild them.

Edit: 10.4
Done! Easy as well once you dig up the info to plop the ends of the shocks in boiling water for a few minutes. They pry right out no sweat. Now if all lifes stuck seals could be solved that easily...

I got lucky on the allen and it didn't require too much force. Just dropped the top of the leg in a vice and they turned right out.

One word of advice noob to noob; no need to hammer the seals in too much

Just far enough to clear the circlip ring. Duh. We'll see if I munged them on reinstall and they leak. Another $20 lesson if so.

Edit:11.9
Got the forks back in the trees yesterday. Pretty easy but one word of advice... The seals in the fork ears... One goes in the bottom and one goes in the top. If you put them both in the bottom end of the ears you end up with a gap at the top that makes you go hmmmmmm until you realize your idiocy

But you don't need this advice because you're rebuilding your bike following the suggestions of folks on the board who say to take pics and notes on everything right? Though so

ev0lve · « **Reply #38 on:** September 30, 2008, 01:08:15 AM »

It seems DynoMan has EBC rotors as a bolt on from the same thread - may or may not be in stock
http://www.dynoman.net/brakes/ebc-apps.html

Kind of awesome. Retrofitting new(er) calipers and larger rotors. Seems the CB750 is kind of difficult.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=59633.0
Ain't that the poop?

Drilled rotors
Just a little update on drilling your own rotors. I had access to a drill press and got some cobalt 3/8 bits from Sears to drill mine.

One; the patterns from above for the 750 were too small. I enlarged them with Illustrator to the right dimensions
so not that big a deal and then found a friend with an oversize printer I could use and THEN spent a couple hours trying to track down some 13x19 paper that would be able to take the whole image in one go.

Two; Cobalt bits are definitely the way to go coupled with some kind of lavender dish soap. Spring Fresh! Expect to pick up 5 or 6 at $10+ to do a pair of disks conservatively and or figure out some way to sharpen them. I got through about half a disc with one before it let me know it was done by heating up red hot. Unfortunately it hadn't cleared the backside of the disc so the steel just deformed into a dimple the next new bit wouldn't clear either. Joy.

Three; GLUE the pattern to the rotor. I know, I know, duh. I tacked it to the rotor and then used a punch to mark where the holes would go. That was a mistake.

Four; at least for me and being as careful as I could be to get the rotor clamped down right I still had holes wandering in line - maybe the punch was off - maybe I'm "challenged". Not off by much really but enough to piss me off. To you guys who can do this with a hand drill on one bit; RESPECT.

Soooo, my conclusion is take it to a machine shop or ship em off to have someone with more know how and WAY better machinery do it for you. Good learning for me. Sad for the disc I ruined. Speaking of which, if you live in Seattle do you want a half drilled rotor? PM me and come pick it up! It taunts me.

ev0lve · « **Reply #39 on:** October 05, 2008, 09:28:39 PM »

I'm 6'3" and feeling a tad cramped on the bike. I'm considering making some rear sets (just turning the pegs around backwards feels better to me) but it occurred to me I might pick up a little stretch room using slightly longer shocks.

Would anyone enlighten me as to the highs and lows of that idea (couldn't resist - sorry

) I realize there are some fairly serious issues with handling but what if we're only talking an inch?

Thanks,
Iggy

andy750 · « **Reply #40 on:** October 06, 2008, 05:02:56 AM »

Iggy,

Im 6`4 and never really had a problem feeling cramped (36` inside leg). Having tried rearsets myself I know they wouldnt work for me for 100+ mile rides - legs would get too cramped after this time. Handlebar/position is something to think about. I also played with rear shock height but this is going to affect the front end handling. I put on some 14` shocks and handling up front was scary. I now have 13` Progressive 412 shocks on and the ride is very smooth. One last thing Ive noticed and will help more than shock height is seat height. The K2 seat (which is what I use on my K4) is taller/more padded and so you end up sitting higher (in comparison to the K5 seat - at least thats my impression). So you might want to consider making a custom seat to raise it slightly.

K2 seat on a K4

Low Guilari seat on the K2 - leg cramps set in after 200+ miles.

good luck
cheers
Andy

ev0lve · « **Reply #41 on:** October 07, 2008, 01:36:40 PM »

Hi Andy! Seen you around the forums. Thanks for the 6'4" reply!

That's the info on the shocks I was looking for (sounds like don't do it). On the rearsets I was kind of thinking of making a bracket that would just move them back in the same plane as the current ones as quick sitdowns seemed to be more comfortable with the pegs on backwards.

Until I get the bars on though (CycleX clubmans - not quite as severe as other manufacturers I could find) and get out on it for a few hours I won't know for sure but options are always good. I think the seat height works against the clubmans for my purposes - better for the stretch, not so good for leaning down and into the bars. Just have to see.

ev0lve · « **Reply #42 on:** October 18, 2008, 05:32:42 PM »

Welp, I decided I'd rather switch than fight on the tank. eBay came through eventually and I snagged this for $17.17 plus shipping. It's actually in better shape than the tank that came with the bike by a ways with only an indent in the right side and light surface rust on the interior as far as I can tell. No petcock but they should be the same 73 - 75? I'll find out soon enough. Now where did I put that stripper? There she is!

Edit: 11.9
DANGER! The petcocks are NOT the same throughout the CB750 run nor are they even on the same side (which presents some other issues that'll I'll post some questions on). As I understand it there was one petcock for tanks 69 - 73 using 3 holes and mounted on the right hand side (what were they thinking when they did that?) and the rest through 76 mounted on the left side. Urg.

Master cylinders from Goldwings are pretty expensive so I got this one for $5.00 off a Kawi ZL 1000 (Hope it looks good on the bike) and Otto sold me all the gear to go two up on the discs minus a double banjo and some longer bolts.

Edit: 11.9
This master cylinder would have been fine EXCEPT the PO had cut a slot in the resevoir basically making it unusable. I can't imagine what this guy was thinking doing that. Nice of him to not mention it in the description. The pic below is from the auction. Bastard. Lesson learned on cheap stuff from eBay; ALWAYS ask questions even if you think there's nothing to ask.

Might make some progress here soon

ev0lve · « **Reply #43 on:** November 09, 2008, 11:39:51 AM »

Some progress. The 73 tank will do if I find a petcock so I stripped it and started the paint/bondo cycle. This is a first for me and it turns out applying and hand sanding large chunks of bondo is kind of hard so I'm thinking of getting a sanding disc for the drill to knock it down to something reasonable unless anyone has some horror stories about why that's a bad idea.

The second part is a question. This tank has the petcock on the right side of the tank. My bike has the carb intake on the left side. Will there be or has anyone encountered any problems running the fuel line from the right, in front (airbox side) of the carbs to the intake? Any reason not to do that?

Thanks!

ev0lve · « **Reply #44 on:** November 09, 2008, 11:50:06 AM »

Also got a chance to replace the top of the triple tree that had busted, drill the bars and paint and clean up all the associated pieces of the front end. Pretty happy with that

The bars are Clubmans from CycleX and they have a nice wide center for a bunch of different ways to slide them around.

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Handle%20Bar%20Page.htm

I decided on keeping the grip ends flat. Drilled them out using a Dremel and I have to say I'm not sure how I survived this long without one. It's entirely my new favorite thing! If you have the means I highly recommend picking one up.

Anyways, took the advice of folks here on the board and put some tape on the bars and then markered up the pilot post in the controls. Fitted them up as I wanted and it left a nice black dot right where the post needed to go. From there it's pretty simple to figure out where the holes for the wires needed to go. Decided to drill the ends of the bars instead of trying to thread them up through the 90. I think it came out pretty well!

Also, to keep the bars from hitting whatever tank I end up with eventually I drilled the steering stop and installed an allen head bolt with a nut and lockwasher on either side of the stop. Makes the steering stops nice and adjustable and works really well. Sorry I didn't take a pic with the bolts but there's one of the stops. Wait a second. You can see the bolts in the second pic.

While we're talking about Clubman bars - Routing Cables
Pics
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=2835.msg20651#msg20651

Andy's under the headlight and others
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20927.0

ev0lve · « **Reply #45 on:** November 09, 2008, 12:18:32 PM »

One last question for today. I've started in converting to dual discs. It looks fairly easy BUT I've modified my speedo drive plate using the Dremel (love that thing) and there's a bit of slop when fitted to the hub; maybe an 1/8 inch. Is that how it's supposed to be or do I need to trim the diameter of the plate and bend the tangs down instead of just trimming the bell and leaving the bits that form the tangs? Pic attached and thanks!

ev0lve · « **Reply #46 on:** November 16, 2008, 05:28:55 PM »

Just a pic of the rotor as it stands. Notice the dimple. That's what happens when you think you can get one more hole out of the bit. Dumb.

ev0lve · « **Reply #47 on:** November 20, 2008, 05:59:59 PM »

Speed bleeders, a 91 Katana MC to replace the lying eBay bastidge's mutilated ZL1000, double banjo (YES IT'S METRIC) a 75 tank (WITH A PETCOCK ON THE LEFT SIDE DAMMIT) and a new rotor and rear rim to replace the ones I "learned" with are on the way. No more surprises please. Getting dangerously close to 2009 here...

Edit:
Turns out that rotor, billed as a CB750, is for a CB550. Looks just the same in the pic but is in fact 10.75 inches to the 750s 11.25 or so. If you're buying from eBay you might want that info.

Also, the 91 Katana master cylinder is non-functional for, you know, doing it's only job. How's that for a kick in the jewels. 2 in a row. Wish there was a decent alternative other than waiting for someone to put it up for sale here.

eBay sellers can suck it.

ev0lve · « **Reply #48 on:** November 22, 2008, 10:22:21 AM »

O Failure I chant your terrifying name, accept me your 41 year old Prophet epicking Eternal Flop!

ev0lve · « **Reply #49 on:** January 29, 2009, 02:14:46 PM »

Almost mid 40's consistently here in Seattle. The snow is gone. The floods have receded. Time to get back on it.

In the spirit of recognizing and accepting the things I suck at I had the rotors drilled.

Thomas at Anubis Cycle did the drilling. He's got a deal for SOHC4 folks as well over here
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=44682.msg466235#msg466235

Recommended for the machining challenged

Both the front and rear rims are laced up, trued and new rubber applied so that hurdles hurdled. Waiting on some braided hoses at this point.

MUST. RIDE. BIKE. SOON.

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Author Topic: Rebuild for Dummies Redux - v2.0, Mulligan (Read 62095 times)