Topic: 1973 CB350F "Freakshow Build" completed! Stay tuned for updates...

[Tim in Ohio]

She's a dirty girl alright.  No question about it...  her top is gonna have to come off.

[Tim in Ohio]

OK.  Those carbs will get a good cleaning before going back on, but I figure that will be after we dig deeper into the engine. 

Now what?   Remember, symptoms were leaky heads, speed topping out at about 60% of what she should do, poor fuel economy.
My expert friends, think of yourselves as skilled surgeons who have been locked out of the operating room... a  life is hanging in the balance... via a remote camera, you are able to observe and provide instruction to the janitor... the only guy within reach of the patient.  Talk me thru this.  What do we do next docs?  Remove the valve cover?   

[scunny]

it wouldn't hurt to check the tappet clearance before you pull it apart, just to get an idea on top end, if the exhaust valves are too tight some of them could be burnt.

[Artfrombama]

Talk me thru this.  What do we do next docs?  Remove the valve cover?   

Download a manual and study it. Works for me!

[Tim in Ohio]

Well, Artfrombama.   That is a different twist on how to approach a resto for noobs build thread.
I hadn't thought of it like that.  Shucks you could have saved me alot of time had you just come along with your insights sooner!

Here you go then, hope you enjoy:

My Resto Project, for ArtFromBama:   "I bought a bike, I downloaded a manual, I restored the bike... the end."

Hmmmmm.   I don't know Art.  Seems to be a little on the dull side.

[Artfrombama]

Well, Artfrombama.   That is a different twist on how to approach a resto for noobs build thread.
I hadn't thought of it like that.  Shucks you could have saved me alot of time had you just come along with your insights sooner!

Here you go then, hope you enjoy:

My Resto Project, for ArtFromBama:   "I bought a bike, I downloaded a manual, I restored the bike... the end."

Hmmmmm.   I don't know Art.  Seems to be a little on the dull side.

Sorry pal, just trying to help...

[Tim in Ohio]

Art,
Don't be silly.  No apologies necessary!  You are right about the usefulness of a manual.  For me though, the manual mainly seems to be helpful for the step by step disassembly or reassembly of a component.  What I find helpful about the exchange of ideas is the learning that I get beyond the step by step.  For example, I could flip to a section on removing the valve cover and I could do it.  OK, Now I have a non- running bike, with a disassembled valve cover.  What next, put it back together?  Well, the manual will tell me how to do that, but I value hearing from our expert friends all of the other stuff... the while you have that off, check for this...  before you remove the heads, make sure you check for that...
Thanks for checking in Art.  Have a good one. 

[scunny]

Tim, you are right about wanting to know why, that's were the check the tappets came from. the more you can learn as you pull it apart, will hopefully point you in the right direction.. eg it had no power. this could be as simple as no air filter.
since you are going to pull the head, the jugs have to come off as well, no biggy. you will find all this easier if you pull the motor out

[Spikeybike]

i absolutely agree, this will be far easier with the motor out .   
put it on the center stand,the exhaust comes off first, already got the carbs off, pull all the mounting bolts exept the rear lower bolt,  have the boy help at this point . with one of you on either side pull that last bolt, the motor comes out the drivers right side.

what i've always done , is if you have a creeper (plank with wheels, for getting under a car)  put that next to the bike , so when you pull the motor out you can just put it right on the creeper , roll it to the table or bench ...  the 550 is a buck forty something, not sure how much the 350 engine weighs

good luck

[Tim in Ohio]

I think the rubber part that I tore when removing the carbs may be called the intake insulator boot.  Saw some on eBay, but not sure if they will fit my bike.  Which brings up another good learning opportunity for myself and noob builders who are lurking...  what is the best way to find out if certain parts are interchangeable on from other bikes to your bike.  For example:  Could I use the intake insulator boot off of a 1973 cb350 twin rather than a CB350 Four?  Could I use the intake insulator boot from a 1971 CB 350?   Weigh in smart people.  What resource does a guy use to find out?

[kghost]

Ok I'll watch.......

Yeah thats a intake boot....

I'll even see if I have one to send you.

Won't be new but it will be servicable.

[bgfootball67]

So far so good, keep up with the pics.  Besides the speed and fuel economy are you going to change the looks of the bike at all or keep her stock?  Where in the Buckeye State are you at...... 

[Tim in Ohio]

Hi Kghost and Bgfootball.  Glad to have you on board.  Kghost: wow, that would be awesome if you have one.   Bgfootball:  On this bike, my first resto, I want to pretty much keep it stock or stock looking.  (would consider an electronic ignition)...
After I get this one done, and performing great, I would like to try a chopper or bobber buildup where I get far from stock.  Thanks for participating guys.  Stick with me. 
Also, I am in Dayton, OH.
Good news:  I just got "liberated" from my job with a company that sucks.  So, I will have more time to devote to the bike project.  I'm going to hit it hard for the next week or so and see what I can get done.  I'm not sweating the job thing.  Should be able to land something at a better company soon enough.  Looking forward to some free time for a while to build this bike!

[kghost]

Believe this is what you need.

Pulled it off a parts head I had in the shop.

I'm not sure if it was a 400 or a 350 head...believe thier the same.

PM me your address.

[Tim in Ohio]

KGhost.  You rock!  Looks good to me.  I pm'd the info to you.
Thanks.   

[kghost]

KGhost.  You rock!  Looks good to me.  I pm'd the info to you.
Thanks.   

Hard part will be finding a little box.....

[Tim in Ohio]

Kghost:  Yeah, sometimes finding a little box can be challenging, but I have always found it to be worth the effort... [fun with wordplay]

Scunny and Spikey:  OK.  Thinking ahead now:
- If I pull the engine out, will I need to have an engine stand or some sort of a homemade jig to hold it in the proper upright position?
- Do I need to drain oil first?
- Anything else I should be asking but currently failing to foresee?
You know me...  When I don't pause and think two steps ahead, I may just dig right in and screw something up!

[kghost]

Kghost:  Yeah, sometimes finding a little box can be challenging, but I have always found it to be worth the effort... [fun with wordplay]

Scunny and Spikey:  OK.  Thinking ahead now:
- If I pull the engine out, will I need to have an engine stand or some sort of a homemade jig to hold it in the proper upright position?
- Do I need to drain oil first?
- Anything else I should be asking but currently failing to foresee?
You know me...  When I don't pause and think two steps ahead, I may just dig right in and screw something up!

I cut down a bigger box. Its in the mail. Regular post.

Draining the oil is always smart. Pulling the pan makes it easier to get the engine out.

[mattcb350f]

- If I pull the engine out, will I need to have an engine stand or some sort of a homemade jig to hold it in the proper upright position?

Draining the oil is easier in the bike, but unless you have a stand handy, I suggest leaving the pan on or taking it off and reinstalling it after. The engine will sit on a bench nicely with the oil pan on, and the oil filter housing installed.

Oh, and the obvious.... the oil filter housing has to be removed before the engine comes out.

getting a little set up like this makes life easier, it's just an automotive engine stand with some "L" brackets with holes in them to attach the engine:



I made this little stand to assemble the cases too:



 Matt.

[Spikeybike]

i forgot to add "remove oil pan and oil filter housing" to my short list , sorry 

[Tim in Ohio]

Pleased with todays progress. 
Scunny:  I checked the valve clearances.  All had the gap just a hair too narrow.




After setting the correct valve gaps to .002, I then got on with the engine removal sequence:
First removing exhaust pipes:

[Tim in Ohio]

I also drained the crankcase oil and removed the oil filter housing.

Then disconnected clutch cable and wire harness.

[Tim in Ohio]

Then I started removing the engine mounting bolts:





Now here is where I got stuck.  I can't figure out how that bottom rear mounting bolt comes out!  If I am looking at the right thing, it is just a threaded bolt end sticking out on both the right and the left side?  No head to put a ratchet on??

see pics:





And on the right side:





Experts...  I need your help!!!  What gives?

[Spikeybike]

 first try tapping it in with a hammer (doesn't matter witch way) ,then try pulling it out.

when that doesn't work , get a piece of round stock (5/16" is what i use)and use it like a chisel to push it out with the hammer, essentially replacing the mount bolt with the round bar, 

then , ..5/16" round bar is way easier to just pull out 

[Tim in Ohio]

Spikey.  Thanks, I was thinking about employing a hammer, but wanted to check in first, so I didn't ruin any threads or anything.

Now, in an earlier post, you recommended leaving that rear lower bolt for last.  Question:  When it is last...  and I go to knock it out of there...  is it the only thing left suspending the engine and bearing all of the weight of the engine?  Is the engine going to go "kerplunk" and fall down onto the frame rails after all the bolts are out?
Would it be a good (or bad) idea to have a jack under the engine to hold it up during this final bolt removal process before lifting the engine out of the right side of the frame?