Author Topic: 1973 CB350F "Freakshow Build" completed! Stay tuned for updates... (Read 84422 times)

kghost · « **Reply #300 on:** October 16, 2008, 07:07:16 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on October 15, 2008, 05:45:59 PM

Look at the label. If it says there is molybdenum in your assembly lube, use it sparingly. Unless you think a slipping clutch would be nice to have.

Cheers,

BTW Lloyd is right on this one....Semi Synthetic on the lable sometimes is a tip off....

However...an oil change shortly after starting it up might alleviate any concern and not a bad idea to boot in light of your drilling tapping etc.

Spikeybike · « **Reply #301 on:** October 16, 2008, 07:32:54 PM »

if you gotta blow gun? blow it off real good then wipe it down , you could scratch it just from wiping it down

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #302 on:** October 17, 2008, 07:18:29 PM »

I felt so thankful that I was able to salvage the head after the scarey helicoil incident (thanks again for talking me thru that one)... I went ahead and ordered a Morgan Carbtune Pro and a Colortune to get those carbs dialed in!

OK, getting that breather cover ready to re-install. My gasket kit came with a gasket for this and it is a good thing, the old one is very thin and and harder than Chinese algebra! Unlike the other old gaskets I have encountered, it is putting up one helluva fight about being removed. Give me some advice on how to get it off without marring up the mating surface too bad.

Artfrombama · « **Reply #303 on:** October 17, 2008, 07:30:14 PM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 17, 2008, 07:18:29 PM

I felt so thankful that I was able to salvage the head after the scarey helicoil incident (thanks again for talking me thru that one)... I went ahead and ordered a Morgan Carbtune Pro and a Colortune to get those carbs dialed in!

OK, getting that breather cover ready to re-install. My gasket kit came with a gasket for this and it is a good thing, the old one is very thin and and harder than Chinese algebra! Unlike the other old gaskets I have encountered, it is putting up one helluva fight about being removed. Give me some advice on how to get it off without marring up the mating surface too bad.

Harbor Freight has single edge razor blades (Item #39748) 100 for like $4. I go through 1-2 a day.

mattcb350f · « **Reply #304 on:** October 18, 2008, 07:56:06 AM »

Razors have worked the best for me Tim.

Might leave some WD-40 or something soaking on the gasket for a while to help soften it up a bit, but heat won't really help.

Glad the 'heli-coil experience has been sorted.

On a side note..........I'm currently moving in with the GF and won't have internet for a few days. I'll still be able to check it at work but if something comes up and you don't get a reply from me....I probably havent been on.

Matt.

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #305 on:** October 18, 2008, 10:38:24 PM »

Hey Matt. You were right about heat not helping. I took Art and Matt's advice and used a razor blade. Took a good long time, so I didn't gouge it up too bad. Afterwards used some Fine steel wool to clean up the surface real good. Came out clean as a whistle:

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #306 on:** October 18, 2008, 11:04:22 PM »

Got the engine in (again) with the help of my son. It is quite a pig to get in the frame with the cam cover on. Removing the oil pan was a must.

Looking ahead I can see my next challenge that I am going to need some advice on is going to be squeezing those carbs back in there. I know there must be a trick to it. Specifically, I am concerned about how to best get both the carbs and the air cleaner assembly in the tight space and then how on earth will there be enough room to work in there to tighten up the connections?
Should I attach the air cleaner asssembly to the carbs prior to installing, like so?:

hoodellyhoo · « **Reply #307 on:** October 19, 2008, 03:05:51 AM »

I doubt you could get them on in one piece. I always do mine separate. If I recall, you should be able to attach the airbox, then slide the carbs in and on the bike.

kghost · « **Reply #308 on:** October 19, 2008, 07:18:13 AM »

I put that airbox on after the carbs.

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #309 on:** October 19, 2008, 05:03:07 PM »

I am so close!

Here is what I got done today. I got those carbs back on:

Reconnected and adjusted the clutch cable and the accelerator cables.

Re-installed the drive chain, gear shift, the rear brake pedal, the footrests. Torqued all of the engine mount bolts. Adjusted the tappets. I reckon all that is left to do is to re-install the exhaust and put in some new spark plugs and fresh oil!
It is a bike again:

I think I will read up on how to clean out those exhaust pipes and mufflers and give them a good cleaning before re-installing. And of course, I have a few days to wait for my carbtune instrument so I can sync those carbs... It is starting to feel like I am going to be riding soon!

scunny · « **Reply #310 on:** October 19, 2008, 05:05:02 PM »

well done Tim. hope the rest goes smoothly for you.

RM81 · « **Reply #311 on:** October 19, 2008, 06:48:24 PM »

Looks great Tim! Which carb sync tool did you end up getting?
Matt

NM, I saw that you got a Morgan.

Sporkfly · « **Reply #312 on:** October 19, 2008, 07:12:39 PM »

Don't know how I missed this one! Good deal!

Bird76Mojo · « **Reply #313 on:** October 19, 2008, 07:26:08 PM »

I'm waiting on the next update on this one too! I've always been a fan of the old 350fours..

GB

fishman_Phil · « **Reply #314 on:** October 20, 2008, 12:11:42 AM »

Did you manage to install the carbs with the air boot connected? If it can be done it would make it so much easier as the air boot can be tricky to get reconnected with the rubber aged and hard.
Well done on the project.
Cheers ... Phil in NZ

mattcb350f · « **Reply #315 on:** October 20, 2008, 07:42:15 AM »

Well done Tim, I should be back in the game by tonite......internet guy comming this aft.

You shocked me with this pic though....

Missing the valve adjusters out of the rockers

...but you must have put them in since you say you adjusted them already.......whew

Matt.

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #316 on:** October 20, 2008, 08:34:45 AM »

Good eye Matt!

I had removed those on someone's advice and waited to reinstall them until after torqing down the valve cover. The way I read some comments, valves can get bent if you put that cover on and the tappets are in too tight?

I REALLY appreciate you double checking me though.
Thanks. I hope the move is going well!

kghost · « **Reply #317 on:** October 20, 2008, 09:18:38 AM »

Nice work Tim....Won't be long now.

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #318 on:** October 20, 2008, 09:27:32 AM »

FishmanPhil: I put those carbs back in KGHOST style. (Carbs first, then airbox).
You are correct that with the airbox being stiff from age, it does require quite a bit of fiddling to get it secured to the carb inlets and then to the air filter chamber. I found it to be do-able though.

In reviewing my pics, and those of others bikes'... After I accomplish my primary objective, getting the bike reassembled and running well... I am going to have to give some attention to polishing cases, etc. I assume that is how everybody approaches a rebuild though? That is, make sure you have a working viable bike before you spend alot of time on cosmetics. No sense spending alot of hours polishing up a turd, huh?

kghost · « **Reply #319 on:** October 20, 2008, 09:29:25 AM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 20, 2008, 09:27:32 AM

FishmanPhil: I put those carbs back in KGHOST style. (Carbs first, then airbox).
You are correct that with the airbox being stiff from age, it does require quite a bit of fiddling to get it secured to the carb inlets and then to the air filter chamber. I found it to be do-able though.

In reviewing my pics, and those of others bikes'... After I accomplish my primary objective, getting the bike reassembled and running well... I am going to have to give some attention to polishing cases, etc. I assume that is how everybody approaches a rebuild though? That is, make sure you have a working viable bike before you spend alot of time on cosmetics. No sense spending alot of hours polishing up a turd, huh?

Exactly.

I get strange looks pulling apart perfectly running bikes....but they run just as well when put back together.

And thier prettier when done.

Its nice not to worry if your electrics are gonna work or the Carbs etc.

Sporkfly · « **Reply #320 on:** October 20, 2008, 12:24:44 PM »

Yep, I got mine up and running and then tore it apart! I think some of my friends are confused by that

. It was purely mechanical work to begin with, now it's cosmetic time. It's a fairly acceptable approach I'd say.

(Or maybe I didn't plan my work well enough

)

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #321 on:** October 20, 2008, 02:34:56 PM »

Regarding the carb adjustment ritual. I have spent $160 for the Morgan carbtune and Colortune. I'm sure that I will be poorer, but very happy with those instruments. Question: The manual also calls for a special float level gauge. It can be had on eBay for $40+. It sure seems to me that this particular piece of equip can be dispensed with... I am guessing that alot of folks get by without one. Am I right?

Spikeybike · « **Reply #322 on:** October 20, 2008, 03:32:33 PM »

how about 4 bucks at any hardware store (just make sure you get the metric one)

kghost · « **Reply #323 on:** October 20, 2008, 04:54:23 PM »

Make one outa a piece of scrap tin....its basically a go-no go gauge.

mattcb350f · « **Reply #324 on:** October 20, 2008, 07:53:09 PM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 20, 2008, 08:34:45 AM

Good eye Matt!

I had removed those on someone's advice and waited to reinstall them until after torqing down the valve cover. The way I read some comments, valves can get bent if you put that cover on and the tappets are in too tight?

I REALLY appreciate you double checking me though.
Thanks. I hope the move is going well!

Oh, I see. Never thought of taking them right out myself. I just tie them up with elastics...but taking them out is a good idea too.

And yeah..........moving went well, and I'm in the new digs now. Internet works and I'm back in

+1, on kghost or spikey's float guages....don't need more than that.

I use a vernier caliper...which can also be found cheap.

Matt.

News:

Author Topic: 1973 CB350F "Freakshow Build" completed! Stay tuned for updates... (Read 84422 times)