Topic: Terry's Cheap-Arse Front Wheel Bearing Cap removal tool, with pics.

[Terry in Australia]

Well I woke up this morning.................. 

And thought I'd take a few pics of this tool, this week Ron (MCRider1) sent me a beautiful Borrani rim and Buchanan's spokes to lace to one of my CB750 front hubs. I decided that I'd replace the front wheel bearings while I was at it, but didn't want to use the usual "cold chisel" bearing cap removal process, so I made this thing.

Anyone with a spare axle can make it, I found some 40mm wide x 3.55mm thick flat steel strap (the "notches" are actually 4mm wide, but this was the best I could find from my own resources) in my garage, so cut off a piece, slotted the axle cap 25.5mm, welded the strap in place, re-drilled the hole to 10mm and used a "modified" screwdriver as a lever.

It was a really nice tight fit, and even though I'd intended to put a spacer and compression spring on the remaining portion of the axle on the other side of the hub and a nut, I was surprised that the bearing cap wound straight out with no undue pressure required. Thinking it was a "fluke", I used it on yet another spare wheel with the exact same result, brilliant! These wheels are at least 35 years old (K2/K3) and have never been apart, so saying I'm happy at how simple the removal process is, is an understatement.

Ron's rim and spokes look so nice and clean I'm tempted to strip and rebuild my rear Borrani rimmed wheel, so I might make a similar bearing cap removal tool, using a rear axle. The benefit of using the axle is that the tool doesn't wobble around at all, like other tools that don't take advantage of the existing bearings. Cheers, Terry.

[MCRider]

The axle is a neat addition. As you experienced, once one gets the proper grip and leverage, those rings come right off.

As you can see, my "expertise" is with wood and nails: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40052.0 I should find a class on welding, probably at a vocational school or such?

There is an absolutely amazing motorcycle museum in North Indiana which has a 1/4 size reproduction of the first motorcycle, made from wood. http://www.kerstingscycle.com/muse.html

And puleeze, clean that hub!    Are you motocrossing your CB? 

[troppo]

Great idea terry...
Might have to "borrow" that one for my shed

[Terry in Australia]

The axle is a neat addition. As you experienced, once one gets the proper grip and leverage, those rings come right off.

As you can see, my "expertise" is with wood and nails: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40052.0 I should find a class on welding, probably at a vocational school or such?

There is an absolutely amazing motorcycle museum in North Indiana which has a 1/4 size reproduction of the first motorcycle, made from wood. http://www.kerstingscycle.com/muse.html

And puleeze, clean that hub!    Are you motocrossing your CB? 

Hey thanks Ron, that hub is actually pretty good compared to some I've had, you see because Oz is such a great place to ride bikes we don't have short "riding seasons" like most of America, so people here literally "ride the wheels off" their bikes. That's why I buy most of my cosmetic parts from the US..........

Hey don't worry about paying someone teach you how to weld mate, just do what I did, buy a MIG (or an AC/DC TIG, drooooollllllll............) and teach yourself. I taught myself how to lace a wheel today with that hub, (cleaned up of course) and your beautiful rim and spokes, I was surprised how easy it was once I started and worked out that simple 4 spoke pattern, aint learning a wonderful thing? Cheers, Terry.

Great idea terry...
Might have to "borrow" that one for my shed

Just make one Trop, you're better at metal work than I am!

[MCRider]

The axle is a neat addition. As you experienced, once one gets the proper grip and leverage, those rings come right off.

As you can see, my "expertise" is with wood and nails: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40052.0 I should find a class on welding, probably at a vocational school or such?

There is an absolutely amazing motorcycle museum in North Indiana which has a 1/4 size reproduction of the first motorcycle, made from wood. http://www.kerstingscycle.com/muse.html

And puleeze, clean that hub!    Are you motocrossing your CB? 

Hey thanks Ron, that hub is actually pretty good compared to some I've had, you see because Oz is such a great place to ride bikes we don't have short "riding seasons" like most of America, so people here literally "ride the wheels off" their bikes. That's why I buy most of my cosmetic parts from the US..........

Hey don't worry about paying someone teach you how to weld mate, just do what I did, buy a MIG (or an AC/DC TIG, drooooollllllll............) and teach yourself. I taught myself how to lace a wheel today with that hub, (cleaned up of course) and your beautiful rim and spokes, I was surprised how easy it was once I started and worked out that simple 4 spoke pattern, aint learning a wonderful thing? Cheers, Terry.

SNIP

I'm just glad the rim ended up somewhere its appreciated. Glad you got it together already. And it is out of my shop! Need the space.

As for welding, I'm not good at the self teaching thing, "gotta know your limitations".

8:30AM Sunday  in USA, Shop time!

[bryanj]

I take it you still drilled the dimples out Terry, and the borrani is a peach to true against the standard steel----seen many a new apprentice spend days trying to true out the "Kick" where the steel rim is welded!!!!

[MCRider]

I take it you still drilled the dimples out Terry, and the borrani is a peach to true against the standard steel----seen many a new apprentice spend days trying to true out the "Kick" where the steel rim is welded!!!!

I was going to ask about the dimples as well, as it is not obvious that he did. I removed one retainer years ago, with the chisel method, without drilling and without (totally) ruining it, but it would seem drilling them out would still be better than risking it.

[CBJoe]

There is an absolutely amazing motorcycle museum in North Indiana which has a 1/4 size reproduction of the first motorcycle, made from wood. http://www.kerstingscycle.com/muse.html

Thanks for the link.  I'm located in Indy so that will be a good excuse to take a ride up North. 

Cheers...Joe

[troppo]

Thanks for the link.  I'm located in Indy so that will be a good excuse to take a ride up North. 

Cheers...Joe

If you do, dont forget we love pics here

[MCRider]

There is an absolutely amazing motorcycle museum in North Indiana which has a 1/4 size reproduction of the first motorcycle, made from wood. http://www.kerstingscycle.com/muse.html

Thanks for the link.  I'm located in Indy so that will be a good excuse to take a ride up North. 

Cheers...Joe

I had to drive to N Jordan to pick up some parts i bought on eBay and I saw a little sign that said "motorcycle museum 6 miles. So I went and it was amazing. i didn't have my camera with me so i couldn't take pictures.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Ambassador Mate,

You never cease to amaze me but I'd at least cleaned that nasty sum#$%* before posting a picture 

[Jim F]

The axle is a neat addition. As you experienced, once one gets the proper grip and leverage, those rings come right off.

As you can see, my "expertise" is with wood and nails: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40052.0 I should find a class on welding, probably at a vocational school or such?

There is an absolutely amazing motorcycle museum in North Indiana which has a 1/4 size reproduction of the first motorcycle, made from wood. http://www.kerstingscycle.com/muse.html

And puleeze, clean that hub!    Are you motocrossing your CB? 

Hey thanks Ron, that hub is actually pretty good compared to some I've had, you see because Oz is such a great place to ride bikes we don't have short "riding seasons" like most of America, so people here literally "ride the wheels off" their bikes. That's why I buy most of my cosmetic parts from the US..........

Hey don't worry about paying someone teach you how to weld mate, just do what I did, buy a MIG (or an AC/DC TIG, drooooollllllll............) and teach yourself. I taught myself how to lace a wheel today with that hub, (cleaned up of course) and your beautiful rim and spokes, I was surprised how easy it was once I started and worked out that simple 4 spoke pattern, aint learning a wonderful thing? Cheers, Terry.

Great idea terry...
Might have to "borrow" that one for my shed

Just make one Trop, you're better at metal work than I am!

or send it to me and I can weld it................. (Its a hobby of mine that pays well)
How is your top end oiler doing Terry?
Hope all is well

Jim

[754]

I have been using the flat bar, plus 18 in crescent trick for years.

 I am still thinking about a tool that will do front and rear hubs retainers, that would be trick..

[kslrr]

Neat idea Terry!

[Terry in Australia]

I take it you still drilled the dimples out Terry, and the borrani is a peach to true against the standard steel----seen many a new apprentice spend days trying to true out the "Kick" where the steel rim is welded!!!!

What Dimples Bryan? The retainer came straight out with no damage to the threads or the slots in the side of the retainer at all, (see pics) what have I buggered? Cheers, Terry.

[bryanj]

When screwed in at the factory there are 3 or 4 centre punch marks put on the line of thread outer to hub inner  to stop the ring unscrewing, same on rear retainer. Usually you have to drill down with a small drill (1/16) to clear the indentation before unscrewing.

If the threads are still good you buggered nothing mate

[mystic_1]

Look at picture #5 in the initial post, you can see where the retainer was already drilled to remove the dimple.  Half way between the machined slots.  If Terry didn't do it than some PO already did.

mystic_1

[Terry in Australia]

I wish I could look at the pics, I'm working at an Air Force base 200 miles from home all this week and next, (but I'll get home on the weekend, it's gonna be warm and sunny so I'll be doing more riding than wrenching.) and the "Defence Restricted Network" (DRN) firewall is so "restricted" I can't open any of the pics.

I didn't notice any "drillings" on the weekend, but the hub was really filthy so I might have missed something? I'm not going to "punch" the bearing cap retainer when I replace the bearings, I'll just use a little "Loctite", I think. Cheers, Terry.

[mystic_1]

This:





(Edit: Not that this helps you now Terry but you'll see what I mean when you get home on the weekend)

[Terry in Australia]

Hey thanks mate, I can open JPG pics like that, but not downloads from picture hosting sites. I see that punch mark now, it doesn't look very effective though where it is? Anyway, it doesn't look like I've buggered anything, so that's good. Cheers, Terry.

[mystic_1]

What's circled is actually a hole, that was drilled where the punch mark used to be.  When the retainer was originally installed, it was then dimpled with a punch which deforms the first thread or so, wedging the part into it's hole so it cannot back out from vibration.  To remove it, you have to drill out the deformed material or it'll chew up the threads.  There are usually several dimples (either two or four, don't remember off the top of my head).

Dunno why they didn't just use loctite originally.

mystic_1

[Terry in Australia]

Ok, I'm with you now mate. It's intersting though, you'd reckon a centre punch would spread the deformity over a fairly wide area, so you'd need to drill a reasonably large hole to remove the entire deformity, you'd think?

Yeah, they used loctite (or similar) on other items, but maybe "dimpling" was considered a safer method considering the proximity of the bearing cap to the wheel, forks etc. Maybe they were worried that if one got loose it could perhaps lock the front wheel at speed? Now that'd be scary.............