Topic: '78 550k still not running quite right

[egar]

Okay,
I've been bugging you folks since July when I bought the 550 and I've a ways to go. At least I'm at the point to where it is running and actually idling nicely.
I replaced the Champion plugs on my '78 CB550 with the correct NGK plugs today, but the bike will still only run smooth either in neutral (revs just fine) or until I get to the top of first gear and then the bike bogs badly. It's not a steady bogging either, more as if its about to run fine for a second and then bogs, so that the bike jerks you down the road.
I adjusted the timing cam adjuster according to the online manual (the good one that you folks referred me to, not my lousy Clymer's) and then tried adjusting the tappets according to the directions. The problem I notice is that regardless of how I set them, the arms themselves seem to have enough play so as to allow the adjustment screw to still touch the tappet. Call it a slight wiggle room if you will. This allows the screw that I just set to still wiggle enough up and down to touch the tappet (I may be using the wrong terminology here). This would seem to negate any adjustment I make. This would explain why my tappets are so noisy. Has anyone experienced this problem and if so, what is the solution?

By the way, the former owner found the original seat and some other parts, which was nice. I didn't like the aftermarket seat that came with the bike. I'll post a fresh pic soon. My new, non-rusty gas tank is hideous on the exterior, so I want to explore the best option for painting it. I want to go to the original black. Love that color on these vintage bikes.

[Einyodeler]

Yes that wiggle is the play that is needed.If there is too little clearance then that valve doesn`t fully seat causing it to get hot and burn up.It`s actually better to be a tad loose than too tight.

[TwoTired]

I'd love to help if I could just figure out what you're talking about.

I do hope you adjusted the valves when cold, as some or most of the .002 or .003 inch gap set goes away when the engine is at operating temp.

 

[egar]

TwoTired,

[egar]

TwoTired,
 I actually tried to adjust the tappets on cylinder one and stopped there to find out about the wiggle room I noticed. I will make sure to make adjustment when the engine is cold. I'm glad there are people like you on this site. Do you think that there is a problem with my jets? I cleaned them well, but it seems strange that the motor will idle and rev fine, but seems to die out at 20 mph when it is actually in gear. Get to the top of first gear and the bike begins jerking and bogging as if it wants to get up to speed then can't.

[TwoTired]

If the bike is still in stock configuration, I can't imagine there is a need to change the stock jetting.  The dealer would not have let the bike run that badly off the showroom floor.  So, I have to believe something has changed from when it was first sold.  You need to find out what that is.

Could be carbs.  Something still dirty inside.  Run it long enough in the (bogging) mode to see what the deposits on the spark plug center electrode insulator look like.  That should tell you (us) what the mixture conditions are during the problem you wish to correct.

Might check the spark advancer, too.  I think it is important to address all the the standard tuneup items first.  Then go after what is broken and fix it.  I just don't have enough information to determine what that is, yet.  Your observations are our eyes.
Cheers,