Topic: Got the CB360 running!!!!! Cafe CB360 thread (or the slow death of me)

[SSCR]

Well a buddy came over and after some tweaking of the carbs she kicked and was running.... for about 3 seconds! But that was enough, now the tear down and resuerection of the CG 360 cafe. One thing though, the right spark plug hole is stripped, how difficult will it be to heli coil? Or should I start hunting for another head?

[bryanj]

Helicoil is a piece of pee with head off, but may be cheaper to take head to somebody who has the kit rather thay buy it just for 1 plug

[BlindJoe]

Depends on how bad it's stripped, you may be able to retap it if its not too severe.

[SSCR]

Thanks, the plug threads fine but wont get tight and I'm afraid to just keep tightening. Maybe I'll just run a tapper through and see what that does. Just need to buy a tap kit now.

[cb650]

It can be heli coiled with out taking the head off but you have to be carefull. 

[SSCR]

Yeah, I read to grease the tap to collect the shavings, anyone know what size tap I need? I'm thinking of just buyng the one tap I need and getting the highest quality.

[cb650]

Heli coil is a kit unless u just need the inserts.  A good kit will have drill tap inserts and a installation tool.

[bryanj]

Helicoil taps are specials, imagine a 7.5mm tap with the correct pitch for 6mm etc, and to make it worse plug threads are the "Non Standard" pitch on the diameter they are. Like I said for a 1 off its probably cheaper to pay to have it done, break even at 2 and 3 or more buy the kit, but remember its different kits for different size plugs, I think 360 is bigger than the fours which are also bigger than some of the early Hondas--- I seem to remember 5 "standard " plug threads the smallest of which is key chain ornament size!

[low-side]

The twins (350s, 360s, etc) used standard 14mm threads.  You can get the Helicoil kit at auto parts stores for about $30.  That's probably less than someone would charge you and you'd have it around to do again if necessary.

[SSCR]

The twins (350s, 360s, etc) used standard 14mm threads.  You can get the Helicoil kit at auto parts stores for about $30.  That's probably less than someone would charge you and you'd have it around to do again if necessary.

Perfect thanks!

[SSCR]

Here is the beast, so I don't feel bad tearing into her. This can be the begining of my project thread. Anyone need a Corbin king/queen seat, extended forks, or the mini ape hangers? Free, just pay shipping to yourself. Also the side covers are going but the right is cracked in half and held together with duck tape. Also going is the turnsignals, starter and some other crap.

[crazypj]

Helicoil taps are specials, imagine a 7.5mm tap with the correct pitch for 6mm etc, and to make it worse plug threads are the "Non Standard" pitch on the diameter they are. Like I said for a 1 off its probably cheaper to pay to have it done, break even at 2 and 3 or more buy the kit, but remember its different kits for different size plugs, I think 360 is bigger than the fours which are also bigger than some of the early Hondas--- I seem to remember 5 "standard " plug threads the smallest of which is key chain ornament size!

 Hi Bryan, 6mm helicoil is actually a 7x1mm tap and uses a quarter inch drill bit before tapping ( handy to know as Honda frequently use 7x1mm on chain adjusters, just get one that fits swing arm and tap out hole)
 In USA you can get 'Re-Coil' (Made in Australia!) from most auto parts stores for about $30.00 with 4 inserts for 'import' cars, even though just about everything has used 14x1.25 spark plug since forever, (until Honda et. al. went to 10 and 12mm plugs)
The 18mm spark plugs are a vintage aberration from the 1930's
 The CB360 needs 14x1.25
PJ

[SSCR]

Okay got some work done today. Took off all the crap I didn't want and threw most of it in the garbage, i.e. Corbin seat and extended forks. Wasn't too bad and even got the ebay stock forks with the new gators on it. Also threw on some drag bars I had just to make it easier to wheel around, stil hopeing to get some clip-ons for it. Okay the bad news, the CB 350 tank which I love dosen't fit, had to force it on with the coils removed just for the pic, and even than it was uneven. Looks like the coils might be tight and the center engine mount's bolts are really rubbing inside. Really like the more square look of the CB350 tank. Possible an older 450 or 550 tank might fit? Maybe bang the inside of the 350 tank a bit and weld the center engine mount instead of bolts? Also the petcock is on the wrong side. Starting to wish I just would of bought a 350 but got this bike for next tonothing and should be a good project to begin with. Any ideas? I thought of cutting the bottom of my 360 tank and swapping with the 350 but I don't think I could handle it.

[DCopp]

use the 360 tank...not enough difference between the two to beat yourself up (or the bike) for.

[SSCR]

use the 360 tank...not enough difference between the two to beat yourself up (or the bike) for.

I agree, specially since I want to keep this project on the cheap side since it is my first cafe experiment. But what about an older 750 tank? That should have plenty of room underneath.

[low-side]

I hate to say it, but the 360 engine is much better than the 350, even if it's not as pretty.  Better cam chain tensioning system, studs stop at the top of the cylinder head rather than at the top of the valve cover, and the sixth speed makes it much better for highway duty.  Paint the jug black and polish out the covers and it will look fine.  Also, if you put a 2-tone paint job on the 360 tank it will look great and be a hell of a lot easier than modding the 350 tank.  The twins are great; have fun with it!

[SSCR]

Cool, thanks. But I still might just try a CB350F tank on her to see if it will fit. Looks like it has a lot more room underneath and already has the knee dents! If not than will use the 360 tank. Two tone ya say???

[crazypj]

I hate to say it, but the 360 engine is much better than the 350, even if it's not as pretty.  Better cam chain tensioning system, studs stop at the top of the cylinder head rather than at the top of the valve cover, and the sixth speed makes it much better for highway duty.  Paint the jug black and polish out the covers and it will look fine.  Also, if you put a 2-tone paint job on the 360 tank it will look great and be a hell of a lot easier than modding the 350 tank.  The twins are great; have fun with it!

Personally, I found the plunger pump on 350 caused less problems than the trochoidal one in 360.
 360 was renowned for destroying cams, rockers and heads.
 I think its because the trochoidal pump generates too much pressure which causes relief valve on filter (the little spring loaded bit in clutch cover) to stay open too long or just stay open at high rpm.
 I'm having good luck with thinner oil (Rottela 5w/40 full synthetic)

[low-side]

     I thought the top end issues came from no one cleaning out the oil filter because Honda screwed up royally and made accessing it a huge pain in the ass.  I believe that is what puts it on bypass.  I bought one that hadn't been run in 25 yrs. once that did have a wiped cam bearing surfaces, but it's filter looked like it had a couple tubes of silver solder in it. 

[SSCR]

Good to know, although I don't plan any performance upgrades to the engine, I plan to clean the filter and pump well before trying to start it again. Also want to replace the polts with stainless allen head bolts. Anyone know a good source for a bolt kit and bottom end gasket kit for the 360? I seen Z1 has a bolt kit but no gasket kit, I also saw a couple of bolt kits and gasket sets on ebay but was a little worried. Thanks

[crazypj]

     I thought the top end issues came from no one cleaning out the oil filter because Honda screwed up royally and made accessing it a huge pain in the ass.  I believe that is what puts it on bypass.  I bought one that hadn't been run in 25 yrs. once that did have a wiped cam bearing surfaces, but it's filter looked like it had a couple tubes of silver solder in it. 

 The 'solder' came from the cam bearings after they failed,and was not the cause of failure. Normally its like dark grey cardboard in there.
 Its a centrifugal filter which doesn't really need cleaning out as it just gets a smaller inside diameter after 5~10 yrs constant use.
It works best at high rpm which is when the cam bearings fail.
 Oil is fed in through the center, centrifuges any heavier particles then returns to outside of feed hole ( also pretty close to center). When pressure relief opens almost all the oil sprays back into clutch cover.
 The big ends and main bearings don't need much oil, and, as the big ends don't have any pressure feed, they survive very well in the oil mist. However, when the pressure drops the oil stops going up cylinder studs to lubricate cam bearings and rockers.
The points side always fails first in my experience.
 Drilling out the restrictor holes in crankcase allows more oil  up studs and drilling a feed hole in bearing surface also helps to lower pressure in filter while increasing lubrication to top end
. It doesn't seem to have any effect at low rpm.
I think the extra oil to top end may also have some limited effect on cooling, picking up extra heat and delivering it back to sump.
PJ

[SSCR]

Well got the engine out and drained, also drained the gas tank, not in too bad of shape. I have to decide which stand to get rid of, side or center...opinons? Also anyone have any ideas how to mount just my tack to the triple tree, custom bracket? Also need to start detailing the motor, I read paint might not be great and I atleast plan on scotchbriting the covers, also any ideas? I read about engine painting from searches till midnight last night and still don't know what to do.

[SSCR]

Allright, got my 20 buck 4 1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight, love that store, and got rid of some tabs and other crap off the frame. Little concerned about how I will mount the cafe seat, but have to order one first. The progress machine moves forward!

[SSCR]

Well I ordered a UNITBA cafe seat from Bret from Glass From the Past, nice helpful guy! As soon as I get that I can figure how much of the tail needs to be cut off and I can start some welding. I found out a good buddy of mine that works at a machine shop can blast my frame so I think I might make my self a little blast box out of a rubbermaid container and blast my engine myself like another guy on this forum did. So really not too much progress, but I did pick up another bike, yikes. A 1971 CB350, have some real plans for this bike, the 360 I figure is just practice and I'll end up giving it to a buddy. Here is some pics, anyone need anything? IE exhaust, tank, seat, side covers, fork covers, fenders? The front fender and the tank is dented but the chrome looks pretty good.

[bill440cars]

         SSCR, like you, I like the look of the 350 tank vs the 360, but you do what you feel that you need to. Main thing is to please yourself. If you can live with the 360 tank or come up with an alternative, go for it! Myself, I don't have any info on what tanks might work on the 360, without much work. cb650 & PJ have 360s, maybe they might have some insght and/or there might be someone else who will chime in on this.

                                Take care, Bill