Topic: Best plan of attack for starting after 29 years!

[DORIGTT]

I would like to get some recommendations for startup of an engine that has sat dormant for 29 years.  What steps would you take?

[BobbyR]

Mine  was sitting for only 20 but this is what I did and what I learned.

FIll the cylinders with marvel oil or something like it and just leave it be while you fiddle with everything else. Give it time to leak past the rings, I mean fill it to the plug holes so when the piston moves it is not scraping dry. Take off the carbs and really clean them well. Flush out the brake system. Now you can blow the oil out of the motor and try to start it. 

[mattcb350f]

FIll the cylinders with marvel oil or something like it and just leave it be while you fiddle with everything else.

+1, and change the oil and filter too.

I also adjust the valves a little on the loose side, say 0.004" and then set them to the factory adjustment after I get it running. My theory is that this allows the valves a bit of freedom to re-seat.

Anyone else do this??

Also, flush out the gas tank and clean and adjust the points, and THEN set the timing.

 Matt.

[DORIGTT]

So I take it that this isn't a big deal or anything.  Not like raising the Titanic?


Who would be a good source for the gasket kit for the carbs?  I see lots of stuff online, but who have any of you used that made a really good kit?

[Johnie]

And you want a darn good battery too.  Mine sat for 17 years.  I wish I had known about putting mystery oil in and stuff.  But I changed the oil and filter and just cranked it over with the kill switch off to distribute the oil.  Did that a few days when I thougth of it and was doing other stuff to it.  Then when the day came she fired right up.  I must have got real lucky as my compression is very good and I burn real clean.  No smoke and she purrs like a KO should.  Good luck with yours...

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Good suggestions. Before attempting to crank it over I would operate the kick starter slowly a number of times with the ignition off. If all seems good I would then do the same with the starter.

[BobbyR]

So I take it that this isn't a big deal or anything.  Not like raising the Titanic?


Who would be a good source for the gasket kit for the carbs?  I see lots of stuff online, but who have any of you used that made a really good kit?

Check the vendors section. Also you can buy most everything from Honda eother at your local dealer or online. Simple Green is the best float bowl cleaner I have ever used. It can be used indoors and it does not eat rubber or plastic. Check out the thread on that.
It takes some time to bring them back, but it is not like rasing the Titanic. You can make it like raising the Titanic if you want to.

[oldhondarider]

Wanted to jump in here...  I'm currently at the "engine is out and carbs are being rebuilt stage."...  Very nervous at times...but slow and steady gets it done.

I'd tell you to use the search feature for every question you have... I picked up tips on almost every task...from how to remove the engine to misc carb stuff that the honda manual or clymer doesn't cover.

These guys on here are full of knowledge and experience...!  Hit them up before you do something...they've probably done it or know of someone who has...

Kudos and Props to the Old Timers.

Shep

[fixahonda]

I did pretty much the same thing as everyone here.
'73 350F that was sitting in a garage since '83.

Pulled plugs, squirted in about 80cc of trans fluid into each cylinder with a syringe that I use for pulling/filling stuff.
Let it sit while I was doing other stuff like pulling the pan off to clean the crud out, changing the oil and filter, and cleaning the carbs with simple green.
Sucked as much of the ATF out with same syringe as I could get.
Kicked it until the oil light went out.
Cleaned mess around plug holes then reinstalled plugs.
Cranked it with the electric started and proceeded to garage with smoke from ATF burning in the cylinders.
I then ran it for maybe 300 miles and did another oil change.

I think the most important thing is that everything that went dry from sitting has good lubrication on first startup.

[BobbyR]

That first dry startup would equal several hundred maile or more engine wear than you would get with normal riding. Maybe more.

[DORIGTT]

I just picked up a set of carb rebuild kits from a local shop and plan to get working on it before Thanksgiving.  I'd like to do a 'Turkey Ride' around the block.

Time to get to banging out some work. 

If only I could fit the bike in my suitcase (I travel alot for work)

[mattcb350f]

If only I could fit the bike in my suitcase (I travel alot for work)

The carbs will fit in there nicely 

No need to take the whole bike, just the parts you are working on. 

 Matt.

[Hush]

What size bike are talking?
Most 4's all the same when restarting but just bloody nosey .
Amazingly these old SOHC bikes seal themselves apparently just waiting for a new owner to appear and spend time $$ sorry more $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ on them and love them again.
You couldn't do that with a 30 year old two stroke!

[mrbreeze]

Lots and lots of great info here on waking the Giant!!! Like was mentioned...if you get stuck on any little detail...hit the search button!!
As far as carb kits...I have heard bad things over the years on this forum .....Keyster comes to mind.I was satisfied with K&L kits from Dennis Kirk but I ran my old stock Honda needle jets and jet needles.I plan on going through them again this winter and replacing those parts from Honda.Some people complain about certain float bowl gaskets that don't fit right and swell up the first time they are removed from the carb.I have had my bowls off quite a few times with the K&L gaskets and have had no probs.The fuel inlet needles& seats have also been trouble free. There isn't much else that came with the kits except main jets that I didn't use anyway(too small).
So thats my vote.....K&L kits(got mine at D.Kirk a few years back....about $18 per carb.)

[speedy gonzalais]

Ive found the best way with out doing any damage is to flush the engine you can buy engine flush or just use fuel, Change the oil filter, Re-fill with oil through the tappet covers this ensures the cam and crank dont run dry, And the tappets and timming will be the same now as they where 20 years ago so shouldnt need adjusting, unless they were out back then.