Topic: I think I'm running lean, 550f

[mrbreeze]

I'm runnin a Kerker 4to1 with the cone piece only and K&N pods. My bike pulls like a raped ape at all throttle settings.

[fastbroshi]

  With the stock jets??

[mrbreeze]

Noooooo!!!!!!!........when you run pods,you let alot more air into the motor.Larger mains will be necessary to give more fuel.Altitude will also come into play as will engine mods(cam,compression bumps,etc.).My bike(75K) was stock with 105 mains.After moving from 5000ft.altitude to 89 ft.......adding my 4to1 pipe,pods,Dyna 2000 ignition......I have tried various main jet/needle settings.I settled for 138.5 mains with needle at 2nd from top.I have since moved up into the mountains(foothills actually). I live at 1750ft. and work at 2200ft. 6 miles away.15 miles east of there puts you at 4000ft. Since I now ride at this elevation....I dropped down to 130 mains and it does great!! A couple of months ago....me and a bud went over the mountain (Sonora Pass,California----9200ft.) The bike did fine all day.Anyways.....the exhaust does affect it but not near as much as the intake. Go back to 2nd from top and then do the synch.After that.....experiment and find the right size main jet.

[fastbroshi]

  Well I figured it was warm enough today in Dallas to get this thing done.  Removed the carbs and placed the jet needle clips back in their stock positions and whaddya know, runs like a charm, idles very well.  The needle won't jump around at 1100rpm anymore, and it pulls away from a dead stop with no hesitation.  No bog rolling on the throttle anymore as well. 
  Lesson learned sync the carbs before fiddling with the jets!!  Now if I can just get my cam chain to stop loosening...

[mrbreeze]

  .........now dial it in and enjoy!!!

[fastbroshi]

   Just wanted to add that I'm getting pretty fast at R n I 'ing the carbs.  I think I had them out, changed the needles, and was riding around in 2 hours.  Probably would've been faster, but I was piddling around eating and catching the Cowboys game.
  Seriously though, I just can't seem to keep the slack adjusted on my cam chain.  I replaced the tensioner and blade not too long ago, and I reassembled with some anti-seize on the slotted adjuster screw's threads to make sure the nut didn't lock up on there as my last one did.  Could it be coming loose because of this?
  It doesn't seem to be a gradual loosening, I notice it after riding around and doing some orchestrated runs up to speed.  This last time,  I was coming up to a redlight and pulled in the clutch and it died. Before I quit rolling I realized my petcock was off, reached down and switched to reserve, shifted to first, and bump started it.  Immediately afterward I hear the chain noise.  I haven't ridden her more than 350 miles since I replaced the tensioner and drive chain.  It's probably happened three different times.  Even if the chain was near the end of it's life, would it be stretching that fast? 
  My motor has about 28k on it according to the odo, but everything did look pretty clean inside when I had it apart.  My barrels were at the stock bore, so everything else is probably original too.  How long to the cam chains last?

[mrbreeze]

It's funny how the job gets easier the more you do it.Once you get a grip on doing the carbs....the rest seems easier.
As far as the tensioner goes....I'm not familiar with the 550's so someone else will have to chime in.

[TwoTired]

Describe the procedure you are using to adjust the cam chain tension. 

I've not known them to go loose (quickly anyway) unless the the lock down nut was stripped.

Cheers,

[fastbroshi]

  I'd take the spark plug out of cylinder number 1 and spin the crank while I had my thumb over the spark plug hole.  After feeling the air being pushed out, I'd go over to the points "window" and go just a bit past the "T"mark, clockwise.  I'd loosen the nut on the tensioner, give the screw a little back and forth to make sure it was moving okay, and torque it ever so slightly ccw while tightening the nut. 
  I'd put the spark plug back in, put the points cover back on, and fire it up and it would be very quiet.  So quiet I could concentrate on the exhaust note if I had to.  Now the prevalent noise is that cam chain. 
  I've set the valves numerous times per measurements in the Honda manual while the engine was cold.

[TwoTired]

You might check out pg. 13 of he Honda Shop manual.
You want to position the crank a 15 degrees ATDC, to ensure the slack side of the cam chain is on the adjuster shoe side.  This alignment is on the left side of the spring post (under the T) on the timing plate.  Only rotate the crank in one direction to keep the slack side of the chain slack.

Since the chain "stretches" some with heat, you might try to adjust when the engine is hot.

You can also ignore the book completely and adjust the chain while running at idle.  Loosen the lock nut and apply tension to the stud post until the chain is quiet, then lock down the nut.  Be aware, if you put too much tension on the adjuster shoe, it wears out faster.

I don't look for a totally silent chain.  It just won't happen.  But, it shouldn't rattle like it's whipping around inside, make ticking noises, or make case scraping sounds as the engine Rs go up.  Also, don't confuse primary chain whip (it has no tensioner) or trans gear clack/rattle while idling as a cam chain noise.
(Or, exhaust header leaks either.)

Cheers,

[fastbroshi]

Be aware, if you put too much tension on the adjuster shoe, it wears out faster.

  That might be what I was doing wrong, I'll do it again with a little less torque.  How the heck would you do it while warm or even running w/o burning yourself?  And I thought I was getting good.

[mrbreeze]

I think you might be confusing un- synched carbs for chain noise. Sounds to me like you adjusted it OK. Once you synch the carbs...the noise should stop.

[fastbroshi]

  No way it's the carbs, just had them synced.  Besides, I've experienced this noise before, and it went away after I adjusted the tensioner.