Topic: Hmmmm, I have been told to cut the springs

[heffay]

i have no problem sliding the forks up or down... my opinion, that's what they were designed to do more so than modifying parts.

i kinda like the looks of forks jammed up in your face.     if they don't go much or at all over the height of the controls, then there's not much of an issue here.

[Really?]

I think I have read the 550 are also a bit shorter.  I have slid the tubes up the tree's, I think I measured an inch, and they are really close to the bars.  I want to get a bit further down, more like two to maybe three inches.

[mystic_1]

The spacers, what should they be made out of?  Read here that PVC pipe was used.  Will this hold?

Here's how they do it at Progressive Suspension, Inc:




Installation instructions:

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdfs/updates/3055-110HarleyForkLowerKit.pdf

mystic_1

[Really?]

Yea, Mystic, you are right.  I know it is used for the preload.  I have PVC in the forks with the progressives on my XVZ12DN.  Now that you reminded me Mystic, I will try PVC for the Damper/Lower part of the tube.  Thanks!

[Really?]

Followed the image link, I hadn't seen those kits.  Too bad they do not make them for us.

[mystic_1]

Well, our forks are similar, so you could probably just double-up on the rebound springs like Progressive does.




Scavenge some off some used forks, or maybe someone here has a spare set you could nab.


mystic_1


Edit:

www.cmsnl.com sells them new:



mystic_1

[Really?]

I just looked that the pdf you linked.  Now it makes sense and I can visualize what I need to do.  

That second image is kewl, I hadn't found that one.  I can see where adding the additional rebound spring would work too.  This whole thing just got a whole lot easier looking!


Thanks a ton Mystic!

[Triffecpa]

yes, PVC pipe will work for the fixed spacer.  I use 20wt oil in the forks.  I pull the springs out, collapse the forks and fill them with oil to within 4" of the top of the fork tube.  Re-extend the forks, put the springs in and caps on and you're good to go.  If you find that the forks compress to the point where hard parts hit hard parts (ie wheel hits the pipe etc) then add a bit more oil to the fork.  You can adjust the fork to the point where it will hydraulically lock before things hit that weren't designed to touch.

TR

[Really?]

Thanks a lot for that finalization of the process and that great tip for the hydraulic lock.  If anyone needs to lower there forks, this has got to be the perfect thread!

Thanks again Tracy!

[754]

20 wt, seems light. I prefer heavier oil and a stiff fork action, when the bike is really slammed, you dont want a lot of travel.. a speed bump could give you a  nasty surprise

I never really built mine to go around corners fast..

[Triffecpa]

754. you might be right about heavier oil.  I typically build my stuff to roadrace and you want controlled action, but you do need the forks to move thru their stroke.

Tracy

[Really?]

I want to verify what I found in the manual is right for the torque on the allen bolt at the bottom of each fork.  I think the manual said, if I read it right, 32.5 to 39.8 ft. lbs.  Did I find the right torque setting?

Well, it appears someone else has been here before me as the tubes that were on it were 1" shorter than stock.  The springs stick out just under an inch from the top of the tube so it looks like I won't have to cut the springs, kewl.

Tower helped me figure out that missing inch.  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=43545.msg452378#msg452378