Topic: Anubis Cycle - Out of Business?

[goon 1492]

On the drilling topic here is a quote from the Bembro Site

Power Slot brake rotors are manufactured to the highest tolerances keeping SAFETY and quality the number one priority. Slotting, unlike drilling, doesn't compromise the structural integrity of the brake rotor. When you drill a brake rotor you weaken it and cause stress points that can lead to cracking and ultimately failure. Also, drilled rotors lose considerable surface area compared to slotted rotors which means less active braking area for pad to brake rotor contact.

Power Slot rotors are made using the highest quality Original Equipment replacement blanks. Competitors will sacrifice quality by using inexpensive off-shore castings. Typically these brake rotors are made of inferior porous material and often have less cooling fins than the OE brake rotors. These fins also serve to reinforce the brake rotor and guard against warpage. Power Slot rotors always meet and/or exceed all OE specifications. It is also important to know that the exclusive Vac-U-Slot is tapered to enhance evacuation of heat and gases. All machining is done in house to Power Performance Groups application specific tolerances to ensure optimum quality control.

The final touch is a military-spec cadmium plating that gives Power Slot rotors their bright silver finish and protects the rotor from the elements. This eliminates rusty rotor syndrome and enhances the look of custom wheels.

That is why I used smaller than usual holes, so actually I have removed less surface area with holes than doing slots. I just wanted to achieve the pockets so I can counter act the gas that builds up between the rotor and pads with braking.
 
I also have read nothing about these rotors being subjected to such enormous ammounts of pressure that is causes cracking of any kind. I don't think any of us here have strong enough hands to cause that kind of pressure
I am interested in what kinda metal the rotors are made of, seems like a kind of stainless or high carbon steel since its rust free.

[heffay]

i've seen plenty of rust on them... i think you're just using them enough to keep it at bay.   

p.s... crazing?   

[goon 1492]

I got a reply from Tygrant for the 550 size and he stated 11" outer diameter possibly 10-7/8" with a surface that is 1-7/8" wide that would make the Inner diameter 9" if the outside was 10.875" can any one else confirm if its 10.875" (10-7/8") ? I bet it is since the 750 rotor is 11.625" (11-5/8").

Anyhoo I noticed on the mainwebsite where Glenn was able to upload my PDF that I screwed up and had all four types of patterns all on one page, I see where this could be a problem with printing so I made four separate pdf's of these and I will try to up load one right now and someone tell me if thats good. They might still have to be taken to a place with larger than letter size printers to print it off, or someone with adobe illustrator or maybe just photoshop could cut them/it in half and then you can print the two halves and tape them together and go from there. If these are good I will try to send the new files to Glenn for the website and maybe he can replace them all with these four separate ones.

P.P.S. Crazing is a concrete term for really fine cracking from too much water in the mix when finishing the surface, too much coffee made me type too much I shouldn't have put that in and will take it out......

[heffay]

i thought you were trying to type glazing and got crazy!   

[goon 1492]

there is also this thread which inspired me and there's a pdf link there for different 550 patterns.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40059.0

[bunghole]

After reading all of this, all I know is whatever I do...

I need Vac-U-Slots!

[goon 1492]

Ok I got the size from the other thread that I posted a link to, and it was 10.904", so 10-7/8"(10.875) is close enough.  Heffay I forgot to mention that lower grade stainless will rust, just not that much. I did get a chance to make a version like the one I did with the sprial hole pattern for a 550, it is 10.904" in dia. Here ya go......
I claim no responsibility for your rotors.(waiver )

[Terry in Australia]

Um, Bobby, on another note...

I see in your quote that the first three lines are from the holy sages in the Mishna (a paraphrasing of the words of Ben Zoma at the beginning of the fourth chapter of Masechet Avot), ending with the alleged B. Franklin retort.  And then your avatar distracts us from the side.  Is there a message here?   

I like Franklin and I though it witty. The girl and the quote could be seen as my duality, but that would be too deep.
I started the Babe thread as a goof, and people ask about the Avatars and ask me when I am changing it. OK, the Babe thread is huge and most people like it, and it is now expected of me to have a sexy chick in there. This is not a problem.

Here is my problem and it has been bothering me. I think people don't take me seriously. They think I am about T&A. I actually own and ride a 78 CB750K which I brought back to life after it sat for 25 years. I respond to peoples technical questions as often as I post as set of minimally covered DDs.

I sometimes need help and I post a question, I get very few responses. I have a problem now
and I need help approaching it. I get 3 responses. Sometimes, I wonder if I should get a gmail account and register another name to ask serious questions. That way Bobbyr can handle the T&A which is fun, and my alias can do the tech stuff.
Sorry for the rant, it has just been bugging me a bit. Have no fear, the T&A will not stop, it is a challenge to find images that fit the rules, I love challenges. I like boobs too.     

Well you can't argue with Brembo, they're probably still the best brakes in the business, but of course their comments about disc drilling are generic, so each case needs to be assessed on it's own merit. For example, many modern discs are already very thin and prone to cracking and warpage, and the last thing you'd do is exacerbate the problem by adding more holes.

On the other hand, the early CB750 discs were enormous fat slabs of (now work-hardened) stainless steel that really do benefit from a good drilling, in reducing unsprung weight, enhancing braking performance in the wet (scary with standard discs) and cooling the disc/s by increasing the surface area. (not the braking surface, the disc surface)

I drilled my front discs on my hot-rodded K1 with 3/8" cobalt drill bits on my mill/drill a year or two ago, and (with an F2 M/C and braided lines) they'll happily pull me down from 125 MPH with very litle effort indeed. Not as good as my BMW K1100LT mind, but then again, it's equipped with 4 piston Brembo calipers and discs, and ABS.............. 

Hey Booby, er, sorry, Bobby, tell us what your problem is and we'll sort it for you, no worries!

[ct_racer]

Ok I got the size from the other thread that I posted a link to, and it was 10.904", so 10-7/8"(10.875) is close enough.  Heffay I forgot to mention that lower grade stainless will rust, just not that much. I did get a chance to make a version like the one I did with the sprial hole pattern for a 550, it is 10.904" in dia. Here ya go......
I claim no responsibility for your rotors.(waiver )

Thanks!  this will be good I'm just about to pick up my second rotor and I can drill them out when I go home in 2 weeks.

[BobbyR]

Um, Bobby, on another note...

I see in your quote that the first three lines are from the holy sages in the Mishna (a paraphrasing of the words of Ben Zoma at the beginning of the fourth chapter of Masechet Avot), ending with the alleged B. Franklin retort.  And then your avatar distracts us from the side.  Is there a message here?   

I like Franklin and I though it witty. The girl and the quote could be seen as my duality, but that would be too deep.
I started the Babe thread as a goof, and people ask about the Avatars and ask me when I am changing it. OK, the Babe thread is huge and most people like it, and it is now expected of me to have a sexy chick in there. This is not a problem.

Here is my problem and it has been bothering me. I think people don't take me seriously. They think I am about T&A. I actually own and ride a 78 CB750K which I brought back to life after it sat for 25 years. I respond to peoples technical questions as often as I post as set of minimally covered DDs.

I sometimes need help and I post a question, I get very few responses. I have a problem now
and I need help approaching it. I get 3 responses. Sometimes, I wonder if I should get a gmail account and register another name to ask serious questions. That way Bobbyr can handle the T&A which is fun, and my alias can do the tech stuff.
Sorry for the rant, it has just been bugging me a bit. Have no fear, the T&A will not stop, it is a challenge to find images that fit the rules, I love challenges. I like boobs too.     

Well you can't argue with Brembo, they're probably still the best brakes in the business, but of course their comments about disc drilling are generic, so each case needs to be assessed on it's own merit. For example, many modern discs are already very thin and prone to cracking and warpage, and the last thing you'd do is exacerbate the problem by adding more holes.

On the other hand, the early CB750 discs were enormous fat slabs of (now work-hardened) stainless steel that really do benefit from a good drilling, in reducing unsprung weight, enhancing braking performance in the wet (scary with standard discs) and cooling the disc/s by increasing the surface area. (not the braking surface, the disc surface)

I drilled my front discs on my hot-rodded K1 with 3/8" cobalt drill bits on my mill/drill a year or two ago, and (with an F2 M/C and braided lines) they'll happily pull me down from 125 MPH with very litle effort indeed. Not as good as my BMW K1100LT mind, but then again, it's equipped with 4 piston Brembo calipers and discs, and ABS.............. 

Hey Booby, er, sorry, Bobby, tell us what your problem is and we'll sort it for you, no worries!

I went down on some wet leaves in my driveway. The bike stalled. As soon as I could get it off me, I picked it up and gas was pouring out of everywhere. I let it sit and let everything drain off and dry.
The next day, she would not start. I had to go out so I let it sit for a week. I have gotten this far in my diagnosis.

The bike was not damaged, my leg and the case guards did their job.
The fuses are fine.
I have no spark.

OK I don't really have time to tear the bike apart searching out every could be on my own. Everything electrical device is working. I do have a Dyna.

I want to hit the most likely suspect first and what to look for, which is where you fellas come in. 

[Patrick]

Which side did it go down on?

Patrick

[Glenn Stauffer]

The section of the SOHC/4 site with the drilling patterns for rotors can be found here:

http://sohc4.us/?q=node/56

PS - don't bookmark this page; this is the updated site I'm working on this winter; the URL will change back to sohc4.net when I'm done.

[BobbyR]

Which side did it go down on?

Patrick

Patrick, I went down on the right side. The side with the kickstarter.   

[Patrick]

Did you check to see if you pulled loose the wires from the dyna to the coils? I can see how pulling your leg out might have snagged them.

Patrick

[BobbyR]

Great point Pat, I will check that. More suggestions please.

[gregimotis]

I'm about the least knowledgeable regular on the forum but:



sometimes I accidentally hit my my kill switch (right side you know) and it needs a good jiggle to hit the 'sweet spot'...

[HavocTurbo]

You still have the stock coils bobby?

I accidentally dropped one of mine removing it from the bike and managed to shake loose something in the coil. New one fixed the problem.

Just a thought.

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Bobby, so when you say it won't start, I assume that the battery is fine, the electrics all seem to be working, the kill switch is in the "on" position, the starter button turns the engine over etc, it just won't spark? If you've got a healthy 12 volts at the battery terminals, (Dyna's won't work much below 12 volts) read on.

Trace your wires from the Dyna ignition (blue/yellow/red) to where they're most likely connected, behind the right side cover, and make sure that they are still connected, particularly the power (red) wire.

It's usually connected to the power wire for the brake light switch, but regardless, whatever wire it's connected to, check to see that the connection is secure, and that (with the ignition key in the "on" position) there is power going to that wire. (I just use a cheap test light with an alligator clip and a pointy "probe" that I poke thru the insulation into the wire itself)

If the blue and yellow and red wires are secure at that point, you'll need to remove your tank, and trace the blue and yellow wires to your coils. These wires are only the "signal" wires, the power wires are black with a white trace, from memory, but again, whatever the color wires are that are connected (hopefully) to the other terminals on the coils. Once you've confirmed that there is power going to the coils, and you know that there is power going to the ignition as per your previous test, there's no reason why it won't start.

If it still won't start, (no spark still) double check your kill switch and your fuses, sometimes a good looking fuse can be busted, so it won't hurt to swap your fuses around, or even replace them with new ones, just to to be sure.

Lastly, if nothing else works, undo your headlight and remove the actual light unit, and trace the power wires from your kill switch/throttle assembly back into your main loom. From memory (again, but you can confirm with a shop manual) the two wires to be concerned about are either black with a white trace, or yellow with a black trace, and black. Just make sure that they're securely connected. By now, it should be running like a new one! Cheers, Terry.  

[goon 1492]

Well said Terry, these are work hardened beasts, not that they are already very hard... Cobalt bit are the ones I had best luck with but I still had to have atleast two of each size. The .188" bit I had to hit up with the drill doctor once too, Man that's a nice little device too bad I don't have one I had to take my bits to work and use their drill doctor.....

[BobbyR]

G'Day Bobby, so when you say it won't start, I assume that the battery is fine, the electrics all seem to be working, the kill switch is in the "on" position, the starter button turns the engine over etc, it just won't spark? If you've got a healthy 12 volts at the battery terminals, (Dyna's won't work much below 12 volts) read on.

Trace your wires from the Dyna ignition (blue/yellow/red) to where they're most likely connected, behind the right side cover, and make sure that they are still connected, particularly the power (red) wire.

It's usually connected to the power wire for the brake light switch, but regardless, whatever wire it's connected to, check to see that the connection is secure, and that (with the ignition key in the "on" position) there is power going to that wire. (I just use a cheap test light with an alligator clip and a pointy "probe" that I poke thru the insulation into the wire itself)

If the blue and yellow and red wires are secure at that point, you'll need to remove your tank, and trace the blue and yellow wires to your coils. These wires are only the "signal" wires, the power wires are black with a white trace, from memory, but again, whatever the color wires are that are connected (hopefully) to the other terminals on the coils. Once you've confirmed that there is power going to the coils, and you know that there is power going to the ignition as per your previous test, there's no reason why it won't start.

If it still won't start, (no spark still) double check your kill switch and your fuses, sometimes a good looking fuse can be busted, so it won't hurt to swap your fuses around, or even replace them with new ones, just to to be sure.

Lastly, if nothing else works, undo your headlight and remove the actual light unit, and trace the power wires from your kill switch/throttle assembly back into your main loom. From memory (again, but you can confirm with a shop manual) the two wires to be concerned about are either black with a white trace, or yellow with a black trace, and black. Just make sure that they're securely connected. By now, it should be running like a new one! Cheers, Terry.  

Thank you Mate. I may be able to spare an hour or two this weekend. The bloody Christmas shopping is burining up my quality time.

[Terry in Australia]

Well said Terry, these are work hardened beasts, not that they are already very hard... Cobalt bit are the ones I had best luck with but I still had to have atleast two of each size. The .188" bit I had to hit up with the drill doctor once too, Man that's a nice little device too bad I don't have one I had to take my bits to work and use their drill doctor.....

If you do it again mate, (and of course if you haven't tried this) use straight dishwashing detergent for a cutting lube. Just the 99 cent per bottle cheap stuff, I couldn't believe how well it cuts!

I think I still had to sharpen my bits once or twice too, but at a really low speed and with the dishwashing liquid "lube", I was popping my 3/8" bit thru with no punching or pre-drilling with a smaller bit.

Thank you Mate. I may be able to spare an hour or two this weekend. The bloody Christmas shopping is burining up my quality time.

No worries Bobby, I can't remember what your marital status is, but all I do is give my wife a wheelbarrow full of money and she runs off and does everything, then for her present, I just give her more money.

I love Christmas, but Christmas shopping to me is more painful than slamming my knob in the car door! (well, almost...............)

[BobbyR]

Too right Mate. The wife spends enough for both of us. Each year for the past 29 she swears a solemn oath that she will go lighter this year. Oaths are not what they used to be. I like the knob in the car door analogy. Quite appropriate.

[ElCheapo]

Still in biz - The address must have been the old one.

It should ship to :

517 N. Park
Reedsburg, WI, 53959

Make sure you use tracking.

Also do call before shipping.

608-415-1401

[Terry in Australia]

Hey Tom, where the fcuk have you been mate? I thought you musta died or something! What's happening? I hope you're gonna hang around here for awhile? Cheers, Terry.

[BobbyR]

Good to see you back Tom.