Author Topic: Goon's dual disc brakes... (Read 16907 times)

goon 1492 · « **Reply #100 on:** March 28, 2009, 09:16:33 am »

Well it looks like hondaparts-direct doesn't sell parts for our old bikes anymore because I can't find a parts fiche or any way to locate parts on their site anymore, looks like they mostly sell neweer metric stuff and accessories...
I did however toast the new paint on my right side caliper, I was tryin to get that little conical brass or what ever metal it is out so I can reverse it to the right hole for he hard line and it has fuzed with the caliper, I started to damage it and after toasting the paint I figured I would stop, fix the paint and just run the lines in backwards on the right side. Unless I can get replacements for it, I am about to order some goodies so I will see if they are available and if so I will drill it out and get a new one for the other hole...
At least I got the caliper sanded back down and masked of last night around midnight, now I gotta repaint it....

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #101 on:** March 28, 2009, 10:07:07 am »

Yep, Jim at Cyclops, has the best tire selection in KC- he's the guy to go to for 'em.

I've been using Honda SS-8 10W suspension fluid in mine, when I finally fix replace my fork tube on the left side I'll let you know how it rides on two forks.
I've been riding all this time on basically one oil filled fork because of the gouge the PO left in the left by a pop can piece fix left in the old seal. Thanks PO!

goon 1492 · « **Reply #102 on:** March 28, 2009, 10:12:08 am »

Oh yeah bobbed my front fender too, be easy on me I know its a good factory part but the front had a few good dents and rock flings from the underside and it happend to be right on the front; plus it had a bad dent from a PO that bottomed out the fender into the oil cooler, So I beat that back out and I was planning on masking off a tribal pattern on the fender puttying the leftovers from the dents and painting it with the hammered paint I did the rest of the bike with then pin stripe it with matched red from the caliper paint.

If you bob your fender, remember they cut easily. I used one of the fiber reniforced micro cutting disc's for the dremel and it cut really smooth and I only have a very small ammount to touch up, versus using like a 4in cutting wheel on an angle grinder. Using the dremel kept the metal from getting too hot and blueing the edge of the chrome, I am also covering the underside of the fender with rubberized undercoating.
Here is what I cut off, about 5in on the front and 1.5in on the back, I did the back so it would match the front since it nolonger has the bead the follows around the bend. I am also going to cover the back section with a leather mudflap when I can get some skin to cut and stamp a pattern on. Yeah Leather stamping is work, but is fun once you get past the learning curve and how to stitch...
Hey thanks for that Dook, I will go visit over there, do they mount tires too? I haven't had the chance to get my whitewalls done yet, I have one place that is a ducatti shop but he was gonna trade some sign work for tire work and I haven't had the time to do the sign work so not tire work...

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #103 on:** March 28, 2009, 10:19:12 am »

Yeah, he'll mount them, he's pretty cool.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #104 on:** March 28, 2009, 12:13:09 pm »

Ok just spent 66 bones at westernhills honda, got me a caliper piston seal #45108-300-003 7.89$, got a bleeder #45109-300-003 10.00$, a bleeder cap #45110-300-003 2.27$, a hard brake line #45128-341-670 9.36$ , speedo cable since mine broke at the gerabox mount #44830-426-830 15.67$ and last but not least for seals they had three different part numbers for these but they were all the same size (35x48x11)

I ordered #91255-kbh-003 this number replaces #91255-300-033
Now granted this order was placed on saturday after noon so we will see if they don't stock em all by monday...

goon 1492 · « **Reply #105 on:** March 28, 2009, 12:15:49 pm »

Oh yeah Iggy if you want to let one of those rubber brake lines go PM me and I will buy it, they want almost 50 bucks for the rubber one and I will spend that kinda money on stainless and not rubber, If I only had the budget to go with stainless right now...

ev0lve · « **Reply #106 on:** March 28, 2009, 12:20:42 pm »

Agh! Forgot to take pics when I was up there. Let me see if I can get Pop out to the garage to snap a few. I did take a quick look though and they seem OK. How about you pay shipping and you can have them for free?

goon 1492 · « **Reply #107 on:** April 11, 2009, 10:23:12 am »

All right I finally remembered to post this, its a set of snapring pliers from motion pro, ther are made for MC's and have extra long fingers to reach into that dreaded snap ring that everyone has as hard time gettng to.
It's from dennis kirk and I wanted to share a link for it but their website is acting werd, anyhoo the part number is 28-2564 and it's 27.99$. I bet one could but it straight from motion pro and skip the middle man.

That is all I have for now and Happy easter to all! I will be able to finish these darn brakes, err forks, err tires, ugh

sometime....

Iggy I haven't had the chance to get your goodies sent off yet, they are in a box waiting for monday.

ev0lve · « **Reply #108 on:** April 11, 2009, 10:28:09 am »

Sweet sauce!

goon 1492 · « **Reply #109 on:** April 13, 2009, 06:50:32 am »

Ok dennis kirk's website is treating me better today heres the link to the MC snaprign pliers and a pic, I want one.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=282564&store=Main&catId=&productId=p282564&leafCatId=&mmyId=

Inkscars · « **Reply #110 on:** April 13, 2009, 08:40:29 am »

I need thems.......Gimme.

ev0lve · « **Reply #111 on:** April 13, 2009, 08:53:51 am »

Quote from: goon 1492 on April 13, 2009, 06:50:32 am

Ok dennis kirk's website is treating me better today heres the link to the MC snaprign pliers and a pic, I want one.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=282564&store=Main&catId=&productId=p282564&leafCatId=&mmyId=

Hmmm, just FYI, I got those. Ended up breaking the "nib" off of one side trying to get that circlip out of the MC. Wish I had some advice for how not to do that but ended up taking it to the local tire joint where they took mercy on me and popped it out for free with their superior tools.

Goes back in without a hitch though

754 · « **Reply #112 on:** April 13, 2009, 09:10:38 am »

They look a bit like they are a tight fit in the hole? and just stamped out.

I use a set of Hazet, they are straight in and very well made (forged steel)

ev0lve · « **Reply #113 on:** April 13, 2009, 09:17:57 am »

Quote from: 754 on April 13, 2009, 09:10:38 am

They look a bit like they are a tight fit in the hole? and just stamped out.

I use a set of Hazet, they are straight in and very well made (forged steel)

Very tight fit. They taper from the top and it gets right to the cylinder walls once you've got the tips in the circlip. AND you have to compress the piston to have any room to fiddle with stuff. Worth growing a third hand for that. The guy at the tire place had the thing out in 10 seconds with something he pulled out of kit. Took him longer to find the right size than to actually get it out of there

goon 1492 · « **Reply #114 on:** April 13, 2009, 09:26:58 am »

Hmmmm I got a mechanic friend that I am doing some dune buggy parts for, I might have to ask him what that took kit is, he has at least one of everything I have seen in my life, so far...

He even has an s-10 pickup with the not so usual v-8, most you see are just a 350 truck, his has a 67' 283 in it. Kewl

754 · « **Reply #115 on:** April 13, 2009, 09:35:25 am »

I have not used mine much lately, but pulled them out an took a snapring out to test them a while back.

They work excellent..straight in. tapered down from about5//16 or so then down to a point where they step down a bit more.

I think the trick is to make a slightly bent punch or bar, with the end turned to fit the snapring hole (Has to have enough bend and be smooth, so that you can move it sideways and pop the ring free of the groove when sticking). Then one at a time, hook the hole and free up each end , before using the pliers, so they have an easy go & are not fighting a sticky ring.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #116 on:** June 06, 2009, 10:52:44 am »

Sorry for the delay in my build Ladies and Gentlemen but, house, garden, garden, yard, flower beds and most importantly KIDS!

have depleted my funds for that last few months. Ma poor 750 k6 has been lonly in the basement for a few months also

I wanted to post a link that MCRider laid out in another thread about rebuilding forks, I am going to be rebuilding my forks in a few weeks as soon as I can get another fork seal; and on that note I am ordering three fork seals (two extra seals for next time

) since they talk about them wearing out in a few years. I have been working some crazy overtime this last month and hopefully I can talk the wife into letting me get some progressive springs to go with these bad daddy emulators that MCRider shared with us.

http://www.race-tech.com/HTML_FILES/EMULATORGV.HTML

goon 1492 · « **Reply #117 on:** June 06, 2009, 10:56:47 am »

My bike is setting all lonesome.
I have to rebuild my fork ears also, one is rusted pretty bad and the tops of my forks too so they will be getting de-rusification and my fork ears will most likely get painted the same rustoleum hammered dark bronze paint as the tank and side covers were.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #118 on:** June 06, 2009, 11:56:41 am »

Oops looks like I was wrong , I will be staying with my stock springs and talking the wife into the emulators that MCRider is talking about in another thread.

I copied his thoughts to share in here, thank you again for your help MCRider

.

From MCRider:
We've had some discussion on suspension threads of these, search "emulators". I put them in my hawkGT and they changed my world. 78cafe--- put them in his project, really likes them. They won't go in the early CB750 fork, just K2 and later. They "emulate' a modern cartridge fork which has 2 way oil dampening, our stock forks the oil only works on rebound. The spring handles all compression duties.

If you buy, RaceTech says use their straight wound springs, not a progressive wind as you'll affect the emulators. The emulators provide the progressivity we could only get with mechanical springs before. To me the emulators are a safety issue as they virtually eliminate tankslappers, an issue dear to my heart as i came close to dieing due to one.

All post K2, non-cartridge type forks should have these, if it were up to me it be a law.

Study up on them I think you'll be impressed.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #119 on:** April 29, 2012, 08:45:20 pm »

I'm back on this finally. Tryin to look up stainless brake line kits, found Hel brand and spiegler. Figured out that the right brake rotor bolts to use are from at least a 1976 GL1000. That's what I pulled from the junk yard close to where I live now. 50 hwy cycle I think is what it was called. Got my bike back and I'm ready to finish this build folks. I'll be back soon.

Don R · « **Reply #120 on:** April 29, 2012, 09:19:21 pm »

Be careful with speigler, custom order and make sure of measurements. I ordered one of their kits, the lines are all too short and they don't take returns or exchanges of exotic colors like black hose and silver fittings.

jaguar · « **Reply #121 on:** April 30, 2012, 04:55:58 am »

sling shot here can help with lines

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Author Topic: Goon's dual disc brakes... (Read 16907 times)