Topic: To use or not to use

[Hondaboy]

   I am getting ready to put my 75 550 motor back together. I have searched for this with no luck. Do I need to use some sort of permatex on the cylinder gasket, or install dry? Thanks

[Alan F.]

do you mean the base gasket between the engine cases and jugs? Or the head gasket between jugs and head?  I used copper gasket spray on my head gasket due to numerous recommendations.

[Hondaboy]

Between the case and the cylinders

[Alan F.]

No, I didn't use anything.  That was the concensus when I searched.  Mine's a 750K3 BTW.

[Hondaboy]

Thanks for the help

[KingCustomCycles.com]

A thin coat of Indian Head gasket compound from NAPA.

[Hondaboy]

Was hoping to get some more replies, I know alot of you have gone this far. What did you use? Thanks

[bryanj]

Clean grease on the base gasket to soften the paper NOTHING on the head gasket except mirror finish metal surfaces

[NitroHunter]

Grease on the base gasket seems to help soften it. When you torque down the head studs that gasket will compress, conforming to any minuscule irregularities. If there's any oil seepage after doing this, look for other issues.
I've also used a very thin coat of Gasket Eliminator (made by Loc-tite I think) without problems, it is made to seal small gaps (up to .015") but be careful around your oil supply holes, let the O rings do their job. I coat all cover gaskets with this stuff - it does eliminate oil leaks.
 
DON'T USE any product like Yamabond! I saw saw the aftermath of this once, the guy ended up with broken fins trying to get the block off the case, and his covers were stuck on so hard he had to hammer them off.

I have used copper coat on head gaskets without issues, head removal and clean up was easier than a dry installation.

And if you don't already know this, I would strongly advise against using any kind of power-driven Scotch brite abrasive wheel to remove or clean up any old gasket material from aluminum. My buddie's machine shop does a good business resurfacing aluminum heads that won't seal after a Do-It-Yourselfer gets done with his Dotco and 2" discs...

[WFO]

Grease on the base gasket seems to help soften it. When you torque down the head studs that gasket will compress, conforming to any minuscule irregularities. If there's any oil seepage after doing this, look for other issues.
I've also used a very thin coat of Gasket Eliminator (made by Loc-tite I think) without problems, it is made to seal small gaps (up to .015") but be careful around your oil supply holes, let the O rings do their job. I coat all cover gaskets with this stuff - it does eliminate oil leaks.
 
DON'T USE any product like Yamabond! I saw saw the aftermath of this once, the guy ended up with broken fins trying to get the block off the case, and his covers were stuck on so hard he had to hammer them off.

I have used copper coat on head gaskets without issues, head removal and clean up was easier than a dry installation.

And if you don't already know this, I would strongly advise against using any kind of power-driven Scotch brite abrasive wheel to remove or clean up any old gasket material from aluminum. My buddie's machine shop does a good business resurfacing aluminum heads that won't seal after a Do-It-Yourselfer gets done with his Dotco and 2" discs...

[/b]


Just curious why scotch brite disks would mess up the surface?

[05c50]

The discs come in different grits and most of them can be very aggressive when used improperly. Most vehicle makers have instructed technicians not to use them, especially on aluminum. As Nitro has said, many heads have been damaged, some beyond repair, using the discs. I have witnessed main bearing failure shortly after a valve job was performed,due to the grit getting into the oil pan. Best not to use them if you can avoid it.

.........Paul