Author Topic: Timing Light & Dwell meter (Read 7280 times)

livetoskate · « **on:** February 22, 2009, 08:03:47 PM »

I want to get a Timing light & a Dwell meter.
I am not sure what exactly is necessary. I will only be using them on
my two bikes 78 cb750k and 72 cb350f.I don't want to get something that I regret buying but I want to
spend as little $$ as possible and still get what I need.
Anyone with any advice or places to buy them would be much appreciated.
Also if anyone has either one that they would sell let me know.
Thanks
Saw this one not sure how good it is.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40963

Deltarider · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2009, 11:42:50 PM »

That timing light is pretty similar to the one I have. Xenon is what you want. Price seems very reasonable. Mine was two times that price, 20 years ago... and mine is plastic...
Although not necessary, I find a dwellmeter very convenient.
Tip: if you need to buy a good DMM anyway, then make sure it's the automotive type that also reads dwell and tach. The extra mony spent then is neglectable.

mark · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2009, 01:01:17 AM »

Found an old Cornwell(name-brand professional stuff) timing light on flebay for like $20... not fancy but functional. Brought home a Heathkit(!) 'engine analyzer' (tach, dwell, volts, amps... does everything but check the oil) from the Goodwill store for $15 .

If you shop at such places..... your friendly neighborhood pawn shop is full of this kind of stuff and probably dying to sell something.

WHALEMAN · « **Reply #3 on:** February 23, 2009, 04:12:14 AM »

I have static timed for 40 years. It sure seems a lot easier than the timing light method.

livetoskate · « **Reply #4 on:** February 23, 2009, 04:36:30 AM »

what do you need to static time? Are there any links that explain how?
Thanks

WHALEMAN · « **Reply #5 on:** February 23, 2009, 04:52:26 AM »

Just a little 12 volt bulb and two wires with alligator clips. Clip one to the engine ground and one to the little nut by the point you are setting. Turn on bike key and turn clockwise slowly and the light will come on when the points break and adjust the timing until the light comes on right at the F mark of the points you are setting. Maybe someone else has a link to a better explanation. Dan

Gordon · « **Reply #6 on:** February 23, 2009, 06:49:49 AM »

Quote from: livetoskate on February 23, 2009, 04:36:30 AM

what do you need to static time? Are there any links that explain how?
Thanks

Your maintenance/repair manual explains the procedure.

While I prefer to strobe time, you should still learn how to do the static method. It's sort of like using a calculator in everyday life, but still needing to know how to do the math on paper for times when you don't have one.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2009, 07:00:30 AM »

I wouldn't recommend buying the absolute cheapest tool out there- you get what you pay for. Like mark said you can find some used but not abused equipment that is pretty good for cheap. Watch pawn shops, they have some good baragains and sometimes they'll zing you if you don't pay attention to prices. Sears has decent tools for decent prices, they'll usually try to match any advertised prices for tools.

upperlake04 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2009, 07:12:03 AM »

Static timing will set for idle, the strobe will allow you to set the advanced timing for higher rpm which is where the engine normally operates.

livetoskate · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2009, 08:25:17 AM »

So what would be a decent timing light to get , I definetaly would rather spend a few extra dollars than get a crappy one.
Are either of these decent?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921023000P

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999438000P

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999094000P
Which one

?

Gordon · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2009, 08:30:06 AM »

You don't need fancy gizmos if you're just doing basic timing. Just a trigger and a strobe. I paid about 25 bucks for mine (sears) almost ten years ago and it still works fine.

UnCrash · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2009, 08:37:00 AM »

Quote

You don't need fancy gizmos if you're just doing basic timing. Just a trigger and a strobe. I paid about 25 bucks for mine (sears) almost ten years ago and it still works fine.

Me too. Mine is plastic Craftsman that I picked up for $25.

Works great.

My step father has had the same one for about 20 years and his still works great.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #12 on:** February 23, 2009, 10:23:59 AM »

Yep, the basic models will do fine to measure static timing and spark advance.

livetoskate · « **Reply #13 on:** February 23, 2009, 10:43:24 AM »

So I think one of these two.
Any suggestions which one

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921027000P?mv=rr

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999094000P
Thanks

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #14 on:** February 23, 2009, 11:03:10 AM »

They're pretty close in cost, I would go with the craftsman. Either should fit the bill.

TwoTired · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2009, 11:16:38 AM »

Quote from: upperlake on February 23, 2009, 07:12:03 AM

Static timing will set for idle, the strobe will allow you to set the advanced timing for higher rpm which is where the engine normally operates.

Ok. But, that is just insurance that your advancer is working properly. If you static time and your advancer works like it should, the timing during engine operation should be correct by design.

Cheers,

feliz · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2009, 12:34:31 PM »

I don't know why but when I set the timing by the static method and the points using a feeler gauge and then check with a strobe and dwell meter they are always off. Now I just use the strobe and meter but why is this so, in theory they should be the same?

livetoskate · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2009, 12:38:22 PM »

I have heard the same thing from a friend.
Anyone know why that would be?

TwoTired · « **Reply #18 on:** February 23, 2009, 01:34:49 PM »

The plate on which the points are mounted can "float" within the mounting posts cast into the engine case, whenever the three mounting screws are loosened. The spring pressure from the points through the rubbing block on the cam, forces this movement while the engine is running. The amount of timing change due to this arrangement varies with the tolerance of the mounting post castings and the size of the point mounting plate.

It also matters about the technique used for setting the points statically. The open point setting should be observed with the engine crank rotated in the forward direction only. You can reverse the crank to get well before the opening point of the contacts. But the open point observation is made when rotating the crank forward.

Finally, the feeler gauge only sets the dwell period. While it does also change the timing, the dwell/or points gap is set first, an then the point plate is rotated to adjust for correct timing. Of course, a loose points plate within the engine mounts effects BOTH dwell AND timing.

Cheers,

livetoskate · « **Reply #19 on:** February 23, 2009, 01:53:15 PM »

Thanks Two Tired

upperlake04 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 23, 2009, 03:57:39 PM »

I was just about to say that TT.

TwoTired · « **Reply #21 on:** February 23, 2009, 04:25:18 PM »

Quote from: upperlake on February 23, 2009, 03:57:39 PM

I was just about to say that TT.

Next time, I'll wait.

...Maybe

upperlake04 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 23, 2009, 04:29:55 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on February 23, 2009, 04:25:18 PM

Quote from: upperlake on February 23, 2009, 03:57:39 PM
I was just about to say that TT.

Next time, I'll wait.

...Maybe

HondanutRider · « **Reply #23 on:** February 24, 2009, 06:25:42 AM »

The other thing about using a strob is that with the engine running, even at idle, the advance springs may be tensioned slightly so that the reading is actually a bit advanced. When the higher revs are reached then the advancer will be full on and the timing too advanced. Setting the timing to the static mark with a strob and the engine idling, likely gets the wrong setting - too advanced. What you would need to do is either set it "by the book" without the engine running so that the points just open at that mark, or use a strob to confirm the advance mark at higher speeds. I would do both, if you got the time and equipment. Only the first method is usually needed and is the best/safest.

Also, as 2tired says, only rotate the crank in the one forward direction. And also remove the plugs or that top-dead-centre will fly by.

emerson · « **Reply #24 on:** May 22, 2009, 01:43:47 PM »

I was checking my timing via static method (light bulb w/ clips) and the light is always on as I crank slowly through a whole rotation. I know the bike runs ok, I am just tuning it up right now. Anyone aware of issues w/ this.

News:

Author Topic: Timing Light & Dwell meter (Read 7280 times)

WHALEMAN

WHALEMAN

upperlake04

upperlake04

upperlake04