the idea has come up to compile our welding/fabrication bodywork & paint mods. to have it all in the same place.
where the idea came fromthe "guidelines" (not rules):
try to keep the "works in progress" to a minimum, i.e.:don't post the beginning of a frame mod, and not posting the finished mod till four months later
start your post with a line of
bold saying what your doing, so that when people are skimming through the thread looking for mods to do.... just a way of kinda separating the fab posts, from the posts that are just comments
sounds simple enough right , well i'll kick it off
DISHING A GASTANK TIPS:this just a copy and paste from my build thread, with little additions in brackets *[]*
the start
to all of you who sell parts on ebay, if your gonna sell a tank ... clean ALL the molasses out first (what a pain)
[drew the eyebrow on one side with a sharpie then made a template out of a piece of paper for the other side]
here is were i put the round bar , i thought i snaped a picture of it on there before the dents, but i didn't
[use 3/16" roundbar , you can bend it fairly easy around a round object by hand, coffee can, bench grinder motor etc,but i have access to torch and an anvil so i used 5/16.. bend the round bar as close to the template as you can before welding it to the tank, then tweak it here and there as you tack it in place, if your using a mig 110 like me, turn it to the lowest setting, and start with teeny tiny tacks, start at the most curvy part first in this case the front. you wanna do the curvy parts first because there is more flex in the round bar before you start welding it, ..duh
make the tacks every 4 or 5 inches, then go back and put more in between those (stitch welding) . once you have it on with the "teeny tiny tacks" go back and build on those tacks till they are all about half of a pencil eraser, now take your trusty angle grinder with the 36 or 50 grit disc and smooth out the tacks a little, and make sure you don't hit the outward most edge of the round bar with the grinder or the welder , the part you will see after the bondo]
i knew i was going to be doing alot of bondoing to get the "eyebrow" to look right . so i wasn't as carefull as i could have been with the hammering
[i used a rubber mallet that rounded with an angle grinder (mmm burnt rubber smoke) use a normal sanding block with a round back from the hardware store, you wanna try to keep the dents about as shallow and as curved as the round back of the sanding block, i used that as a guide, you can dent it in deeper then the block, the curve angle is whats important, then use that to sand the bondo]
my boss once told me that i have a good eye for seeing what the end result will be, knowing it will look good when its done, eventhough it looks like #$%* right now.
there is alot of that going on here
[the tips of the round bar were ground flush after they were welded on]
i seem to have lost/deleted the during the bondoing shots, sorry. but i move on
ooooooooooooweeee that is lookin sweet . at this point i'm starting to get exited
[you can see very clearly all the bondo layers from high spots and low spots, no real way to tell you on a forum how to do that , you either know , or you have to be shown, but in between sanding sessions,once you get close to finished spray a little primer on to see the highs and lows as you sand]
