Topic: A Link! A Link! My Kingdom for a Link! - Cam Chain Installation Woes

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Is it just me or are the cam chains on a 550 one link too short?!?!

I just finished the final torque on the head of my '77 550K US model, stock and am now installing/wrestling/cursing my cam chain!  I've read my Haynes manual which, IMHO, explains the process in VERY simplistic terms (SLIP the camshaft through the sprocket and chain, SET the camshaft into it's bearings, ALIGN the T mark of cylinders 1.4,  ROTATE the camshaft to proper alignment, HOOK the chain on the sprocket, FIT the sprocket onto its spigot, have a cup of tea!)

I'm sure in some form, this procedure works.  But what are the details?  I know that the camshaft can only go in from the right and that the cam chain can't be fitted to the sprocket during insertion.  Should the shaft go through the sprocket first or should the chain be on the 3.4 side of the sprocket?  Any trick to getting enough slack to HOOK the chain onto the sprocket while maintaining alignments?  I have the chain tensioner retracted as much as possible, but still, the chain seems a link too short!  Is the secret to use the "Mickey Mouse" ears cut out of the center of the sprocket maybe?

I'd appreciate any advice y'all can give me.

[CBJoe]

I know that on the CB650 you have put the chain on with the sprocket unbolted from the Cam.  Once the chain is mounted, you bolt up the sprocket.

Have you tried this?

Joe

[Gordon]

I did a step-by-step with pictures on this a few years ago that's in the FAQ now, because I always had the same problem putting the cam chain back on, too. 

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=369.msg57914#msg57914

[SteveD CB500F]

2000 views of the photos in that FAQ!   - that truly is a FAQ.

I've just noticed that I didn't credit Gordon with the input so I've changed it now...   

[HondaMan]

Old School:
Did you remove the cam chain tensioner first? Even with it fully retracted, it can use up quite a bit of chain length when you're trying to put things back together. I always remove them anyway, to clean them up and deburr the shaft where the lock bolts always rough them up over the years.

[Gordon]

2000 views of the photos in that FAQ!   - that truly is a FAQ.

I've just noticed that I didn't credit Gordon with the input so I've changed it now...   

I hadn't noticed the number of views.  That's great!

[bryanj]

Hondaman if its a 550 ther is no lockbolt to burr up just make sure the tensioner blade is pushe dall the way to the back and the locknut tightened. Unless you do it exactly as the Honda book tells, AND shows you it wont go in. I.E. from the side shown in the order shown

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Gordon,

2001 hits now!  Thanks for the excellent FAQ entry!  I see that yes indeed, slip the camshaft through the chin FIRST then the sprocket (i.e chain on the 3.4 side of the sprocket).  I'll give 'er a shot tonight.


Mark and Brian,

Its a brand new tensioner.  I thought about pulling it out, but I'm concerned I wouldn't be able to get it back in.  It's pulled in and locked down.  The front chain tensioner/guide of course can't be pulled out.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

IT WORKED!!! Thanks a TON Gents!!  Amazing how it almost falls together, properly aligned, just by slipping the cam shaft through the chain first then threading the sprocket on.

Now, on to my next problem. 

With the tappets backed out and held back by rubber bands, I set the rocker cover down on top of the head.  I look all around to make sure the O-ring stayed in place, tack the cover down by setting the screws & bolts finger tight or maybe a bit tighter.  Using the kick starter, I can spin the engine slowly by hand.   It spins well, no binding, no valve/piston collisions (tappets still backed out mind you).  The woosh woosh woosh of air flowing in and out of the empty spark plug holes as the pistons do their thing.  COOL!   

Now, when I torque the rocker cover down, even to the low end of the range (5 ft-lb) I can no longer spin the engine.  It's locked tight!  It's not that it spins so far and binds, it is bound up with ZERO movement! 

I've re-read the manual and have studies the fiche.  I don't see where I missed anything.  Its almost like torquing the cover jams the camshaft.  Could that be what is going on?  What could be causing this?

What could be going on?

[lordmoonpie]

IT WORKED!!! Thanks a TON Gents!!  Amazing how it almost falls together, properly aligned, just by slipping the cam shaft through the chain first then threading the sprocket on.

Now, on to my next problem. 

With the tappets backed out and held back by rubber bands, I set the rocker cover down on top of the head.  I look all around to make sure the O-ring stayed in place, tack the cover down by setting the screws & bolts finger tight or maybe a bit tighter.  Using the kick starter, I can spin the engine slowly by hand.   It spins well, no binding, no valve/piston collisions (tappets still backed out mind you).  The woosh woosh woosh of air flowing in and out of the empty spark plug holes as the pistons do their thing.  COOL!   

Now, when I torque the rocker cover down, even to the low end of the range (5 ft-lb) I can no longer spin the engine.  It's locked tight!  It's not that it spins so far and binds, it is bound up with ZERO movement! 

I've re-read the manual and have studies the fiche.  I don't see where I missed anything.  Its almost like torquing the cover jams the camshaft.  Could that be what is going on?  What could be causing this?

What could be going on?

Have you torqued the cover down BEFORE doing your tappet clearances? If the tappets are still backed all the way out could that interfere with the head as it goes down? Have you got all of the tappet covers off?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Yes, the tappet covers are off and all tappets backed out.  I started another thread specific to the head cover, look for "Help with Binding Head Cover".  I did a test with some PlastiGuage that had some interesting results.