Topic: Steering Stem Bearing Race - Removal Trick?

[beta1042]

Is there any trick to getting off the steering stem bearing race?  Is the rubber seal salvageable or is that a lost cause?  I've got the other races out of the column.  New column races are waiting in the freezer, but the stem is proving to be elusive.

[Markcb750]

Search for head bearing replacements lots of good discussion here.

I beat mine off with a aluminum drift.  side to side. ruined seal, but replacement kit had new spacer and seals. (AllBalls)

Seal can be salvaged by cutting race with Dremel tool.

Some members use a bearing puller, issues with clearance around the clamp arms.

[Gordon]

Seal can be salvaged by cutting race with Dremel tool.

+1

Not only is this method very easy, but it also allows you to get out our aggression on the damn thing!

You just cut a deep slot in the race, then put a flathead screwdriver in it, push firmly to one side, and you hear a nice, satisfying "POP!" when it breaks. 

[beta1042]

Well I tried the punch and hammer method.  Race is off and I have a sore punch holding hand.   

Bottom half of seal was damaged in one area.  Kept rotating the seal and spacer to keep the damage in one spot while using the punch on the left and right sides (since that is the only place to get almost 180 degrees between hit locations).  The ringing in my hand will stop soon right?

Oh, and I didn't have much faith in my ability to cut the race with the dremel.  Figured I might butcher up the stem.  Good point though Gordon, notch it part way and wack it good with a punch in the groove.  Next time......

[beta1042]

May have celebrated too soon.  The outer diameter on the face of the new tapered bearing is larger than the one on the old ball bearing race.  How does the old salvaged seal go on now?  The bearing will wind up squeezing it against the bearing... bad right?  The upper bearing didn't have a seal.  Saw some others mentioned they didn't use a seal.  Would I be better off cutting the old one in half (separate the upper and lower sections of the seal) and use one for the upper and lower.  Modify the inner diameter to fit around the new bearing outer diameters.  Upper bearing was pretty dirty without a seal.  Thanks PO.

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Mate, the OD of the bearing outer should be the same as the OEM ite, are you sure you've got the right kit? I've done a few of these and you should have plenty of space for your OEM seal, and normally you'll also need to use the fat spacer washer that comes with the kit to give you some clearance between the steering head and the bottom triple tree. Cheers, Terry.

[beta1042]

I've attached a picture to show the differences in the diameters I'm talking about.  It's not the outer diameter of the whole bearing, just the portion of the base of the bearing that contains the tapered rollers.

[Markcb750]

The seal on a tapered bearing should reach out to the steering head to seal the space that the rollers rotate in.


The original seal might not function with a tapered bearing set.

check Z1 Enterprises should only be a few bucks.

[Alan F.]

after the 'pop' the race will easily slide from the steering neck as it's now a little larger inside diameter.  Very easy this way.

Seal can be salvaged by cutting race with Dremel tool.

+1

Not only is this method very easy, but it also allows you to get out our aggression on the damn thing!

You just cut a deep slot in the race, then put a flathead screwdriver in it, push firmly to one side, and you hear a nice, satisfying "POP!" when it breaks. 

[78CB750CAFE]

Park Tools makes a fork race puller for bicycles I use to remove them on bicycles and motorcycles, it cost around $100 and worth every penny to me.

[754]

The one i just built would be a lot cheaper than that price..

[78CB750CAFE]

As a pro bicycle wrench it was worth it for me, your mileage may vary.

[hevykevy420]

i used a dremel to cut out the race.  even if you knick the frame neck its not gonna cause the bearing to spin (unless you really butcher it)

I wasn't able to use that rubber seal with the tapered bearing installed.  it just caused the whole show to bind up with the triple installed.  i don't think its absolutely necessary.

[midnightrider]

I used a piece of 3/4" pvc and a hammer to tap out the top race and a piece of 1" pvc to bang out the bottom race on my CB350F. 
The 1" pvc is a perfect, snug fit. 

[drones76]

I just got down to mine and I could not get it to budge.  A buddy of mine works for a NASCAR team and he took it to work and returned it done and the part sandblasted.   

I was too nervous that I would do too much damage.  I was going to pay to have it done.  The triples on my bike are known to be brittle.

[jakec]

Can anyone say what kind of tip you’re talking about using on the Dremel to cut this thing? I’m looking at mine (specifically the lower triple bearing race) and it looks pretty beefy. I was able to grab the seal out with pliers so I have a good view of the race.

[BenelliSEI]

Jakec....... I use a small cutting wheel on my Dremel. They start out about 1” diameter, I keep a few that are 1/2 worn down for jobs like this. Cut a thin slot into the inner race and stop before you nick any part of the tree. Then insert the cold chisel to the slot. One good hit and it will “crack” right through. This works well, because the bearing is a press fit and sitting there under pressure. The hit just let’s it go! John and.

[jakec]

OK, thank you. I see my local hardware store has cutting wheels. I didn't realize they could cut metal.

[pjlogue]

Dremel has various wheels for cutting.  The one you want is the thin abrasive one.  Not a metal one with teeth.  The thin wheels are brittle so get a bunch and wear eye protection. 

-P.