Author Topic: SHELBY DOWD RIMS. VALUE ? (Read 7012 times)

BLUE71TURBO · « **on:** April 10, 2009, 03:51:13 pm »

Hello ! I'm new to this site. I was wanting to know how much are the rare Shelby Dowd
rims are worth.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #1 on:** April 10, 2009, 05:23:19 pm »

You probably won't want to hear this, but the last set that went out on eBay went, collectively, for about $225... $150 rear + $75 front. The rear included the proprietary rotor and caliper.

Interesting that the Henry Abe seven spoke sells (usually) for more than the Shelby-Dowd six spokers. Perhaps because most of the S-D wheels are so narrow....

Since the HA fronts are so hard to find, I've taken to using S-D fronts with HA rears on some projects. On certain applications the combo looks great. RR

myhondas · « **Reply #2 on:** April 10, 2009, 07:49:36 pm »

Blue,
Do you have a set of S-D rims? If so, what shape is your rear caliper, reservoir, and disk?

RR,
How often have you seen the S-D rims up for sale? I wasn't aware of how many sets of these wheels were sold back in the 70's. I bought a set in late75 or early76 and nobody had ever seen anything like them before. I just pulled them off my old bike that my nephew left outside for 25 years. I think I can save the disk, but I think the caliper may be shot. Then there is the issue of pads. They would have to be custom made I believe. I would like to put them back on the bike after I restore them.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #3 on:** April 10, 2009, 11:45:18 pm »

Hi, MyHondas. Not all that often, I suppose. But neither are they high on my search list. I bought a full pair with tires, complete rear brake assembly and drilled single front rotor a couple years ago locally and paid $100. Since then I've picked up two additional front rims for $50 - $75 each.

But, IMHO, like the Kimtabs that everyone wants to pay ridiculous bucks for (old magnesium wheels - scary stuff there!) the S-D wheels are really narrow. I think they'd look killer on a CB350 or other smaller displacement Honda. Maybe even on the right CB550. But the rears look too narrow on a CB750 for my, admittedly poor, taste.

But you know the line about "opinions," don't you? RR

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #4 on:** April 10, 2009, 11:53:43 pm »

MyHondas... I just reread your posting and my response. Dude if you've already got a set, put some time into them, make 'em pretty and run them. They'll be a knockout!

I'm just an overly opinionated olphart. Don't pay any attention to what I say! Sorry.

If someone asks "How much is something worth," I think (hope) they're looking for the most honest informed answer they can find. I gave it; I shouldn't have editorialized. L8R. RR

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #5 on:** April 11, 2009, 12:04:18 pm »

I bought a set of these wheels in '75 with the H-A disk. The complete disk setup is still available.......including the pad. They are made for go-karts. Not much of a brake...and a short-lived pad. I am going to try and mount a disk from a '77 F2. I think the rims look great with a set of TT100s..........3.25 on the front........4.10 on the rear. I recall 4.50 on the rear at one time but it didn't wear well.

myhondas · « **Reply #6 on:** April 11, 2009, 04:52:05 pm »

My original caliper looks like the hurst one. I definately want to put the S-D back on.... here are some pics prior to my bike's unholy stint outside for 25 years and what it looked like when I found it. I think I can save the disk by sandblasting and grinding it but I think the caliper is shot.

myhondas · « **Reply #7 on:** April 11, 2009, 07:11:24 pm »

rr,

hey man, not to worry. I always appreciate someone who says what he thinks and means what he says. I do plan on restoring the S-D's if I can. Main problem will be the rear brake system. Other than the HA's I think they are still some of the best looking wheels ever produced. Being over 34 years old....Carroll Shelby's design is timeless. I think I should get the caliper and pads and maybe even the disc soon though, since I have no idea how much longer I will be able to get them. Any help on source for those parts would be greatly appreciated.

ray

myhondas · « **Reply #8 on:** April 11, 2009, 07:26:59 pm »

Hey Old Scrambler,

Where can I order a Hurst-Airheart caliper, pads, & disc? I would really love to be able to use my S-D mags on the bike rebuild. Any help/info would be greatly appreciated.

ray

BLUE71TURBO · « **Reply #9 on:** April 12, 2009, 08:48:07 am »

I WOULDN'T SELL MINE THAT CHEEP. I HAVE A CHERRY SET ON MY 71 TURBO AND
ALSO HAVE AN EXTRA SET. WHAT DO THE HENRY ABE RIMS LOOK LIKE? ANYONE
HAVE A PICTURE ?

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #10 on:** April 12, 2009, 10:09:10 am »

www.airhartbrakes.com

I have not looked in a year or more but was able to get a new pad then. Your disk will rust very badly unless you polish it which will reduce the braking effect. Its really a weak system.

myhondas · « **Reply #11 on:** April 12, 2009, 03:39:14 pm »

blue71turbo,

check this post in sohc forum for the different look of the wheels

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=44776.0

ray

BLUE71TURBO · « **Reply #12 on:** April 12, 2009, 07:03:23 pm »

THANKS FOR THE LINK MYHONDAS. I HAVE ONE OF THOSE HENRY ABE FRONT RIMS ALSO.
I BOUGHT IT YEARS AGO THINKING IT WAS A SHELBY RIM. ALSO, WHAT CONDITION IS YOUR HURST AIRHEART CALIPER IN ? I KNOW I HAVE AN EXTRA IN THE GARAGE SOMEWHERE. PADS CAN BE FOUND IN THE GOKART CIRCUT OR ON EBAY SOMETIMES.
AS FOR THE ROTOR, I'M GONNA CHECK WITH A FRIEND OF MINE THAT IS A RETIRED
MACHINIST FROM SANTA FE RAILROAD TO SEE IF HE CAN MAKE SOME UP !

myhondas · « **Reply #13 on:** April 12, 2009, 09:21:13 pm »

I was able to get the caliper apart and off the disc, but I am pretty sure that it is shot or would cost way more than it is worth to try to fix it. I think that I can save the disc and I haven't really got into the reservoir yet to see what I am up against there. If I can replace them rather than trying to rebuild an almost certain major headache/lost cause, I would prefer that.

ray

AHuff · « **Reply #14 on:** April 12, 2009, 10:43:51 pm »

Quote from: BLUE71TURBO on April 12, 2009, 07:03:23 pm

THANKS FOR THE LINK MYHONDAS. I HAVE ONE OF THOSE HENRY ABE FRONT RIMS ALSO.
I BOUGHT IT YEARS AGO THINKING IT WAS A SHELBY RIM. ALSO, WHAT CONDITION IS YOUR HURST AIRHEART CALIPER IN ? I KNOW I HAVE AN EXTRA IN THE GARAGE SOMEWHERE. PADS CAN BE FOUND IN THE GOKART CIRCUT OR ON EBAY SOMETIMES.
AS FOR THE ROTOR, I'M GONNA CHECK WITH A FRIEND OF MINE THAT IS A RETIRED
MACHINIST FROM SANTA FE RAILROAD TO SEE IF HE CAN MAKE SOME UP !

Man, your stash must be epic. If you ever consider letting that front Henry Abe go please keep me in mind. I have been looking for a front to make the rear I already have for quite some time now.

BLUE71TURBO · « **Reply #15 on:** April 29, 2009, 10:43:53 pm »

HEY AHUFF ! Send me a private message and maybe we can work something out
on that Henry Abe front wheel !

JohnG · « **Reply #16 on:** May 10, 2009, 07:09:20 pm »

I bought a set of Shelby-Dowd rims new in '78 for my 1976 CB750F and have run them ever since. These wheels allowed me to continue to use both the front and rear calipers and disks.

The only problem I ever had was as follows: the sprocket is rigidly mounted to the rear wheel - no cushioning at all. The chain life is relatively short due to the hammering it takes. Any suggestions as to how to improve on this appreciated. By comparison Lester allowed you to transplant the stock sprocket mount and cushions.

My recollection was that the pair of wheels cost $177 plus shipping in 1978.

john - MA

754 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 10, 2009, 08:03:16 pm »

You could use a Morris type cush drive.

Washer plate on each side of sprocket & urethane bushings with steel centre sleeve in sprocket.. to do this you must bore sprocket holes out to 3/4 or 7/8.

Are you running it really hard, with lots of clutch dumping or burnouts?.. if not its probably just ypur chain maintenance.

JohnG · « **Reply #18 on:** May 11, 2009, 05:32:05 am »

no not running it hard at all - just commuting to work. Maybe lousy shifting habits on my part. Chain is "brand X" from JC Whitney - been looking into a really good DID as an upgrade. The current chain is Oring and I lube it relatively often and tension as needed. Seems like if I go for a long ride with alot of shifting it almost guarantees the chain will get sloppy.

Just got done tracking down a DID Superstreet ZVM2 chain to consider at it has their highest tensile strength.

I have been thinking about the mod you describe: bushings and so on. I bought some high impact material for the bushings. My only hesitiation is that the geometry of the sprocket (location of studs relative to inside hole) does not allow much room for milling out the hole. But nothing ventured nothing gained.

Later: I have a new rear sprocket to play with. The holes for the mounting bolts are .500" in diameter. The closest distance from them to the inside opening is about .34" so a new hole of 3/4" is feasible but 7/8" is not.

For bushing material I have Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethelene (UMHW) that I got from Mcmaster for the job which I could get machined to fit the stud and enlarged sprocket hole.

Have you done this modification? What do you think?

Thanks for the help and ideas!

John

754 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 11, 2009, 07:23:30 am »

The plastic in the kit I saw was yellowy brown in color. With a thin steel sleeve in centre.. I think Morris used 5/16 bolts or 3/8 to hold their sprockets on. I think the centre steel sleeve must be slightly wider than the sprocket to allow movement. I think the guy that had it, did not like the way the sprocket moved around a bit.

JohnG · « **Reply #20 on:** May 11, 2009, 07:42:51 am »

the high impact stuff that was recommended to me is yellow in color.

The OEM stud is 12 MM (about .467"). So is the idea to have a tapered stud? Smaller outer part than that which threads into the wheel? Makes sense...allows for more bushing.

The guy must have never notices how much the stock countershaft sprocket rattles around! Far from a press fit!

thanks!
john

754 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 11, 2009, 07:50:02 am »

I think they ran 6 bolts so that you could run the stock disc on the rear wheel. If you only have four, I dont think i would go under 3/8"

myhondas · « **Reply #22 on:** May 11, 2009, 08:11:20 am »

I am in total bewilderment on this whole topic of chain damage from the S-D rims on a 750..... I had mine on my bike for 4 or 5 years and put over ten thousand of miles on just two chains. I did keep the chains in excellent shape and lubed and adjusted. Can someone clue me in cause I plan to put them back in action on the same original bike after it's rebuild.

JohnG · « **Reply #23 on:** May 11, 2009, 09:35:07 am »

This is totally my portion of the thread so I will attempt to clarify.

I have a 750F ('76). It came with wire wheels and rear disk and sprocket mounted on a cushioned drive that sits in the wheel with substantial rubber padding.

I changed to S-D cast wheels in '78. This means the rear sprocket is now completely rigid being mounted on studs that go directly into the wheel.

So each time I shift gears, the chain gets a jolt that is no longer absorbed by the factory rubber cushions in the wheel assembly. In my case the result is a chain that is in need of frequent tensioning. I do a pretty good job of lubing it. I also drive rather reasonably (old age and insurance costs do that) and not in the rain. I use 530 chains; not always of the highest quality.

As I said earlier , maybe its my shifting or something but I do poorly on chains. If I modify the S-D set up and things continue, I have to assume its me.

By way of comparision, in the 80s I used to road race a 1979 DOHC 750 with the stock Comstars and which include the same kind of factory cushioned drive. In three seasons of that beating, I never had to change the chain and kept using it for a long time after the bike went back to being street.

I have a Lester 750F rear wheel and I note that they machined pockets to allow use of the factory cush drive for the sprocket assembly. Dont know anything about Morris.

So if you are having real good luck with S-D wheels, I need to know what chain you buy , how you maintain it and so on, since you are doing something alot better than I am!

You got 10000 miles out of two chains; that's about what I am getting.
thanks!
John

JohnG · « **Reply #24 on:** October 18, 2014, 06:20:02 pm »

so . . . 3+ years later. . .

I bought a DID Superstreet ZVM2 chain. Much better tensile strength than
Brand X. More than a stock 750 motor suggests but intended to compensate for the lack of cush drive.

It's been about 4000 miles and the chain has not needed adjusting once. I lube it every 150 miles or so.

The chain cost me extra but worth every penny.

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Author Topic: SHELBY DOWD RIMS. VALUE ? (Read 7012 times)