Topic: How Much Por15 For A Frame?

[547]

While my fuel tanks are at the paint shop I want to paint my 750's frame. Just wondering if 1 pint of POR-15 is enough if I am going to brush it on.
also, do i need to strip the original paint or can it go over? i stripped the first frame i painted and it was a pain in the ass so I would rather not  this time.

[Inigo Montoya]

Are you including the swingarm in this and the trees or is it JUST the frame? If just the frame, I would say it is enough. Do you have to thin the paint? If so, then certainly enough I think.
As for removing the old paint, from what I have read, no you do not need to. BUT you want to remove any loose paint and rust and such. I think primer was suggested though in that case.

[jumpjg]

Also realize that POR-15 is not resistant to UV, so it will "chalk out" if in too much sunlight. You might want to check into Interlux Brightside one-part polyurethane paint thread. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=51006.0

[HondaMan]

There's a spray-on product that works as well, much easier to apply, at your local Checker Auto store: it converts rust to primer which can be sanded smooth, then the rusty spots that reappear can be treated again, and the tiny bumps in the end Bondo'd for a perfect appearance. I've used it: it's for steel parts. It's called Mar-Hyde One-Step.

Don't get it on paint that you want to keep!

[Geeto67]

Por15 adheres best to bare metal. While it is an excellent product there are other easier solutions.

For instance, you could use interlux brightside. Brush it on and it self levels. It can go over your existing paint (it prefers to). And it is cheaper than Por15. Look up the post about it.

Also rustoleum "stops rust" is excellent and comes in spray cans.

[547]

Por15 adheres best to bare metal. While it is an excellent product there are other easier solutions.

For instance, you could use interlux brightside. Brush it on and it self levels. It can go over your existing paint (it prefers to). And it is cheaper than Por15. Look up the post about it.

Also rustoleum "stops rust" is excellent and comes in spray cans.

thanks for the tip. Did my last frame with rattle can rustoleum and wasn't to happy with the finish product. i think I will check out the interlux. from what i have read tho POR-15 is self leveling. maybe i am wrong. i don't want to strip the frame(swing arm, trees, and all other bits to be painted) the rust is minimal and limited to a little on the spine and the center stand.
So, if i am getting it- I can prime over the existing paint with self-etching primer and brush on the new paint
                             Is a top coat needed with Interlux?

[Geeto67]

the POR15 is self leveling. However it must be applied to bare metal that has been preped with their metalprep or prepsol before you brush it on.

With the interlux, I would scuff your existing paint with 300 grit sand paper, clean up the rust areas, wipe it down with prepsol, and just lay it on over the existing paint. The guys who use brightside to paint cars usually apply it right over the factory finishes.

no top coat is needed with interlux. It is a single stage poly. stuff is intended for boats left out in the weather in salt water - it is tough stuff.

[547]

the POR15 is self leveling. However it must be applied to bare metal that has been preped with their metalprep or prepsol before you brush it on.

With the interlux, I would scuff your existing paint with 300 grit sand paper, clean up the rust areas, wipe it down with prepsol, and just lay it on over the existing paint. The guys who use brightside to paint cars usually apply it right over the factory finishes.

no top coat is needed with interlux. It is a single stage poly. stuff is intended for boats left out in the weather in salt water - it is tough stuff.

it's a winner then. thanks for the help.

[Inigo Montoya]

I thought por-15 had a product that did not need that sort of prep?

[Geeto67]

they do, it is called Flexcoat and is meant to go over the Por15 coating or any other coating.

seems to have the same properties as brightside:

"Developed for the marine industry to resist moisture and salt spray, our FlexCoteTM has been found to work incredibly well in construction and industrial applications in any climate."

it is also available in the same colors as brightside so.....in this case I would just say whatever is cheaper.

[Pirate]

Ha, I would see this thread as I'm rebuilding/repainting my 550F...

POR-15 CAN go over previously painted surfaces, but with a little work.  On the first bike I used it on (TW-200), I cleaned the frame really well with Simple Green and plastic & brass bristle brushes.  I wiped it down with solvent for painted surfaces (forget the name, but it was made by Du-Pont).  Then I used a foam applicator to 'dab' on the POR-15 tie coat primer, which is self levelling.  Finally, I gave it a two coats of Chassis Coat Black, which is a black, UV resistant semi-gloss covering.  Now, ~3 years later, the only areas which have flaked or worn off are the 'high-wear' areas -- top of the frame under the seat, part of the footpeg my boot rubs against, etc.

With the 550, I decided that I only want to have to repaint the bike once, and be able to do touch-ups myself if/as necessary.  I sandblasted the frame, again wiped it down with solvent, and then used POR's 'metal-ready' prep.  This is less of a pain in the ass then you would think.  It only takes 15 minutes of contact, which I accomplished by dabbing it on everywhere (again, with a foam applicator).  The directions call for the metal ready to be washed off afterwards, so I sprayed the frame down with a hose and left it in the sun for a day, then next to the furnace overnight.  Then, it took me two days to get the frame painted with 'Black Cote'.  This was mostly because I couldn't paint areas that the frame was sitting on, and it needs about a day to harden enough that you can flip it over without scratching/rubbing off your hard work from the previous day!

A pint will be fine for the frame, you'll have about half of it or so left over.  I've found that stirring the whole can, then using a coffee scoop to transfer the paint to a yogurt container/plastic cup/etc. works well.  POR-15 actually dries by taking in moisture from the air, somehow, so if you paint from the can, you won't be doing yourself any favours.  Once you've transferred the amount of paint you need, a piece of saran wrap between the can & lid helps keep out air/moisture.

[HondaMan]

Ha, I would see this thread as I'm rebuilding/repainting my 550F...

POR-15 CAN go over previously painted surfaces, but with a little work.  On the first bike I used it on (TW-200), I cleaned the frame really well with Simple Green and plastic & brass bristle brushes.  I wiped it down with solvent for painted surfaces (forget the name, but it was made by Du-Pont).  Then I used a foam applicator to 'dab' on the POR-15 tie coat primer, which is self levelling.  Finally, I gave it a two coats of Chassis Coat Black, which is a black, UV resistant semi-gloss covering.  Now, ~3 years later, the only areas which have flaked or worn off are the 'high-wear' areas -- top of the frame under the seat, part of the footpeg my boot rubs against, etc.

With the 550, I decided that I only want to have to repaint the bike once, and be able to do touch-ups myself if/as necessary.  I sandblasted the frame, again wiped it down with solvent, and then used POR's 'metal-ready' prep.  This is less of a pain in the ass then you would think.  It only takes 15 minutes of contact, which I accomplished by dabbing it on everywhere (again, with a foam applicator).  The directions call for the metal ready to be washed off afterwards, so I sprayed the frame down with a hose and left it in the sun for a day, then next to the furnace overnight.  Then, it took me two days to get the frame painted with 'Black Cote'.  This was mostly because I couldn't paint areas that the frame was sitting on, and it needs about a day to harden enough that you can flip it over without scratching/rubbing off your hard work from the previous day!

A pint will be fine for the frame, you'll have about half of it or so left over.  I've found that stirring the whole can, then using a coffee scoop to transfer the paint to a yogurt container/plastic cup/etc. works well.  POR-15 actually dries by taking in moisture from the air, somehow, so if you paint from the can, you won't be doing yourself any favours.  Once you've transferred the amount of paint you need, a piece of saran wrap between the can & lid helps keep out air/moisture.

Thanks, Pirate: good stuff to know!

[olc101]

Thanks pirate! I'm currently figuring out how to paint my bike tomorrow with POR-15 thanks for the heads up.

[SohRon]

I sandblasted the frame, again wiped it down with solvent, and then used POR's 'metal-ready' prep.

Not necessary on a sandblasted surface. Metal-Ready creates tiny pores in the metal that gives the paint something to "grab" onto ; sandblasting does this as a function of the process. Metal-Ready is for smooth "new" metal. I have successfully used POR-15 on sandblasted surfaces for automotive restoration for years, and have never had a problem with peeling paint. One thing, though: POR-15 on its own will react to UV light, so it must be top-coated.