Author Topic: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie  (Read 317568 times)

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traveler

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #100 on: February 09, 2010, 04:32:21 AM »
I think the best thing to do is to jsut tell your mechanic to do what is necessary to get the engine rebuilt correctly, and then let him go......You're just gonna have to bite the bullet on the cost.

~Joe
« Last Edit: February 28, 2010, 09:28:46 AM by traveler »

Offline supersports400

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #101 on: February 09, 2010, 04:40:18 AM »
A legend ? Now you're flattering me, what do you want ? ;D

I think you have a lot of courage to start with the bike you have. My starting point is much more conserved in time.

If you need any pictures of how things should be mounted, where the cables are running, mail me, a I have every detail of the bike covered on pictures I took before dismantling. When I bought it, everything was original, just how the factory did mount it.

My budget is 1500 to 1750 Euro, but that's only engine work, the rest is in perfect shape as you've noticed on the pictures. Parts are expensive, and I'm very critical, and that's rarely a good combination money wise.

I would definitely regrind the valve seats, these are the most important areas in the cylinder head.

Webcam and Megacycle cams are using a core (worn camshaft), that they weld up and regrind. It's not bad to do that, but it's not a new cam, keep that in mind. A cam has to be hard on the outside and flexible on the inside. When you weld on a cam, the material changes, and that's not always good.

A primary chain and cam chain can be ordered at Honda, good price, original stuff. I have a few new valves (intake) if needed, pm me. Glad your valve guides are ok, that's good and saves a lot of hassle and money. Try to buy a parts manual 3, that's up to date, otherwise use CMS on-line parts manuals, these are good too.

Jensen

Offline supersports400

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #102 on: February 10, 2010, 02:49:04 AM »
Hi,

I don't know everything about these bikes and engines, but I do know my way around in the older twin Honda's (CB72, C77, CB92 etc), and I see a lot of differences, but the methods are the same.

I noticed some people work through there engines in a few weeks, and if you have a large amount of NOS parts, it's realistic, but that's not the case, on the other hand, not everyone wants to build an engine to spec. I have a time line of 6 to 8 months, and that time is only for the engine. 99 % of that time is spend on waiting for parts, looking for parts or refurbish the parts. I learned one thing with rebuilding an engine and that's that patience is always paying back in a positive way on a long term.

It took 2 years to rebuild my CB72 from 1967, but after completion of the rebuild it did 35.000km without any signs of problems, and I have to drive it fast here in the Netherlands, getting along with the traffic.

You started your thread in march 2009, and you did a lot of things, but in the scale of complexity, the engine is on top (together with the paperwork issue you had). Please don't expect a fast solution for the most complex part of the bike, it will be just as frustrating as the paper work. Try to see this in perspective. In your priority scaling, it was until a few weeks ago one of the the last things on your list.

An engine, just like a complete motorcycle, is made out of groups, while waiting for parts, let's say for the group cylinder head, go further with the group carbs, or the group clutch, transmission, engine cases, etc.

I always make a list of all the items I need (not only for the engine), keep track on ebay, ask around, and keep informed. A great deal of (small) parts is still for sale at Honda, and the prices are sometimes very low. I have to buy a lot of small parts too, I can keep you informed about the availability and price if you want. The only thing you need is access to a good parts manual, like I stated earlier.

Remember, I'm a purist, and a perfectionist. Not everything I do is money wise the best, but from a technical point of view it's the best I can. With other words, what is best for me, is maybe over the top for you,

Again, keep faith and patience, the rewards will be in the end when riding around on your self restored classic, knowing it's done good. And while other classic riders are very gentle with the throttle, scared of ruining it, you will pass by, full throttle, with a grin on your face,

Jensen
« Last Edit: February 10, 2010, 09:16:24 AM by jensen »

Offline RickB

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #103 on: February 10, 2010, 07:25:31 PM »
Hey guys,

Just put in a big parts order for my engine at DSS. Jensen has been great in talking me through some of the technical stuff and is even helping me track downa NOS camshaft. Thanks mate!

Here's the parts list if anyone is interested.

1 x Camchain
1 x Primary chain
2 x Inlet manifold rubber for Cylinders No. 1 or No. 4
2 x Inlet manifold rubber for Cylinders No. 2 or No. 3
4 x Piston kit for One cylinder, 0.25mm oversize
1 x Points cover and gasket
1 x Generator cover screw set
1 x Generator cover badge
1 x Drive sprocket, Rear
1 x Drive sprocket, Front
8 x Rocker arm
4 x Spark plug NGK DR8ESL
8 x Tappet cap
1 x PLATE,FIXING
1 x Camchain tensioner blade
1 x Camchain guide blade
1 x Oil filter
1 x Engine oil seal kit

Rick.

Offline HedNut

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #104 on: February 11, 2010, 11:31:04 AM »
Wooooh  That's quite the list....Gonna be quite a treat for that engine!

Offline RickB

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #105 on: February 11, 2010, 05:55:28 PM »
@ HedNut: There's still a few more parts I need, but hopefully the engine has what it needs. Here's what I still have to do:

Dyna S points and coils
Rebuild forks with used forks I bought in LA for $55. Paint lowers black or leave original.
Rebuild front brakes
Install pads on rear brakes
New brake master cylinder (the Buell Blast one looks good, but haven't found it new. DSS Honda replacement is okay, but worry drag bars will have it on a weird angle and it won't work)
New brake lines
New clutch, throttle (push/pull) and speedo cables (that work with master cyclinder and MotionPro push/pull tube)
New levers
Mitas H-03 tyres
Quality fuel petcock and inline filter
K&N pod filters
Seat
Spray tank and covers
Mini guage and mini indicators and rear brake light

Hi guys,

Ok so the search for a new camshaft continues. I got this email from WebCam when I mentioned I was having doubts about buying a reground camshaft:
We do not offer or recommend a regrind cam for your bike. The rocker arm ratio is not as good as stock and they do not work as well.

When you order a hard weld cam you are getting a cam that has the lobes welded by hand and ground to the correct profile. A hard weld cam is hardly an old cam, but is a rebuilt cam that is much better than the stock cam ever was. Hard weld cams last longer than any cam you can use and have less parasitic drag than billet cams so make more power as well. The cams we sell have a much better profile than the stock cam and is the best cam available at any price.


He makes a strong case, but that's his job. Does anyone have any horror stories about WebCam's? For a weekend rider like myself, will a WebCam be suitible? Are they really better than NOS? What is the difference between reground and hard weld?

I really am such a rookie when it comes to the super technical stuff.

Rick.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2010, 11:55:29 PM by RickB »

fattcat66

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #106 on: February 11, 2010, 09:07:29 PM »
When I first looked @ the Pics on your post and the title issues I said to myself, Man this kid doesn't know what hes in for!
I kept  reading and then I saw how much you paid for that rust o ride (I became angry @ the dealer that sold it to you) and I thought to myself this is going to end badly!
As I looked on @ your progress I thought back to my first Rusted P.O.S when I was a (YD&FOC) young man.
I have to say you are doing well grasshopper!
Good luck and keep the rubber side down! at least the one on the rear!

Offline Hush

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #107 on: February 11, 2010, 10:17:19 PM »
Totally agree Fattcat, a young man with SOHC4 oil in his veins :)
I think the thing I most like about motorcycling is the speed at which my brain must process information at to avoid the numb skulls who are eating pies, playing the ukulele, applying make-up etc in the comfort of their airconditioned armchairs as they make random attempts to kill me!!!!!!!

Offline supersports400

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #108 on: February 12, 2010, 05:21:09 AM »
Hi Rick,

I read in your last post :

Quote
When you order a hard weld cam you are getting a cam that has the lobes welded by hand and ground to the correct profile. A hard weld cam is hardly an old cam, but is a rebuilt cam that is much better than the stock cam ever was. Hard weld cams last longer than any cam you can use and have less parasitic drag than billet cams so make more power as well. The cams we sell have a much better profile than the stock cam and is the best cam available at any price.

The webcams and megacycle cams are not bad at all, and I never said that. Yes I now a few horror story's about these cams (broken cams while riding fast), but I also hear good story's too (from the same guys).

Older cams (especially relative long cams) are most prone to fatigue if not destroyed buy wear. I don't know what your knowledge is about metallurgy, but I'll try to explain a few things. A cam is soft (flexible) on the inside, and very hard on the outside. This hardened part is very hard, but very thin too (a few hundreds / tenth of a millimeter. This hardening is done by heat treatment or / and chemical processes like nitrating or chroming.

It's not very difficult to make the whole cam hard, but if this was the case, it would brake as easily as glass or from fatigue. A very thin layer and a soft core makes a cam AND hard on the outside AND flexible inside.

If you look at your cam, you will see that the rocker is worn down through the thin hard layer into the soft material,
Once this layer is gone, wear wil go fast (because of the soft material).

Why does this layer disappear ? Bad oil, but that is something completely different, a subject for an oil debate.

Sticking to the cam, as I mentioned, heat treatment is also a hardening method. If you weld on a cam, it is a heat treatment, but to weld the complete cam you have to put a lot of heat in it. Everyone knows that a welded piece of steel will not break directly on the weld, but clos to it.

If the heat treatment after welding is not done properly, the inner (core) of the came is not soft and elastic any more, and that's the reason that these cams tent to brake or that parts of the cam lob break out.

This heat treatment is a very difficult process, and the process parameters are depending on the type of camshaft.

Next to that, the core has a long history before it's welded, maybe it has done 50.000 to 80.000 mile before welding up and grinding to the correct cam shape. Fatigue plays a big role in the cam, and since the cam has this history,  nobody knows how far that process is (X-ray scanning can make it visible, but not just before it will break).

Heat treatment can repair the process that lead to fatigue, but, like I said, this is a very difficult process. When money plays a role, I'm not certain if this heat treatment of these weld-up cams is done properly.

This is the reason why I prefer a NOS original camshaft, but that doesn't mean that a welded up cam is bad. Next to that, I don't like spending money on re-jetting because the cam has a different shape, I like it keep it as close to original.

If an NOS camshaft has the same price as a megacycle cam or webcam, I would choose a NOS original cam, if a NOS camshaft is unobtainable or way to expensive I would go for a welded-up cam. Inform yourself about the prices and process, also inform yourself about the cam shape.

Remember, in original condition, the performance is good, for track and road race you could buy a wilder camshaft, that's up to you.

About using other air filters like K&N I have a few points.

First of all, I hear from different people that a CB400F without a filter box is difficult to re-jet, but you have to ask around, I think that on this forum there are a few people who can tell you how to do it.

Secondly, and that's the most important point, an air filter should filter the air, and should do that good.
Bigger particles are not a problem, but small particles are. Be sure that the replacement filters are just as good as the original filter (smallest size that can be filtered out).

From my point of view, that is not the case at the moment.

Jensen
« Last Edit: February 12, 2010, 02:43:31 PM by jensen »

Offline RickB

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #109 on: February 13, 2010, 12:18:14 PM »
Ahh!

So frustrating! I went to bid on this set of reasonably good shape headers on eBay with a minute to go and eBay tells me:

You are unable to bid on or buy this item because:
* You are registered in a country to which the seller doesn't ship.

Two things. I'm in the USA on holiday but my account is registered in Australia. But that doesn't matter because in the listing it clearly says:

I only ship to Canada, Europe, Australia and Japan.

They ended up going for $215. I was going to get the replacement #1 down pipe from DSS. So disappointed.

Rick.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2010, 09:07:31 PM by RickB »

Offline Hoosier Daddy

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #110 on: February 28, 2010, 06:48:07 AM »
New member watchin your build... keep it up!
'81 GL1100 "Bomber" cafe build - Yea, it's a GoldWing.... Wha?!
'74 CB350f "Lil Sister" - Waiting her turn to dance.

traveler

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #111 on: February 28, 2010, 09:36:50 AM »
Do what you can to find a NOS cam, IMHO....

get a nice used pipe and restore the finish.

~Joe

Offline RickB

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #112 on: March 30, 2010, 07:01:18 PM »
Hi guys,

Well I'm back from two months of traveling the USA and Mexico. Had a great time snowboarding in Utah and surfing Baja Mexico. I managed to pick up a few parts for the bike whilst in the USA. Prices, availability and shipping are so much better there than here in Australia when buying eBay parts. I'm working on the front fork rebuild now, but I dropped into the engine mechanic the other day and was very pleased with what I saw.





So these have been hydro-blasted. No paints or coatings or anything. They're even brighter than in the photos. I can't believe how good it looks. Although the nics and scratches that were on it are accentuated more so now.



A little hard to see but at the bottom of the box for the cam chain you can see the damage caused from the cam chain being loose. My mechanic said that the cam chain was basically slack. He said the head gasket had been installed the wrong way around causing the cam chain to be held tight until it quickly wore through the gasket and flop about.



The loose cam chain damage is even more evident on the tensioner. Those groves aren't meant to be there! I'm not going to take any chances on this part and have bought the TTR heavy duty replacement.



My mechanics ride. Pretty sweet.

I went over the various issues with the engine with Matt the mechanic. He said the clutch and bottom end all looks pretty good. I need new crank bearing cases and a clutch bolt/washer thing, but nothing major. Is it worth upgrading my clutch parts? Matt the mechanic says they look good, but if it's going to be difficult to replace later, maybe now is the time?

As for the top end, I probably should get new valves and springs, just to be on the safe side. DavidSilverSpares don't list the parts, but they do appear when searching for the part number. So I think they're available. The springs are easy to find, but I might wait until I know what I'm going to do about my camshaft first.

There was another problem with a bolt that had been threaded in wrong and off center on the crank case. It's hard to explain but it will require some machining and maybe welding to fix. This engine had been 'worked on' by the previous owner/s and they really didn't take a lot of care in their work. There was no way this engine was going to run remotely good in the shape it was in. Another mark against the original dealer I brought it from. On a positive, I'm glad I chose to have professional mechanic rebuild the entire engine.

I'll take some more photos of the fork rebuild this week. I hope to have the forks on this weekend so I can finish my wiring (less the indicators and gauges which I'm yet to buy).

So happy to be back and working on the bike again.

Rick.

Offline hoodellyhoo

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #113 on: March 30, 2010, 08:33:15 PM »
Those engine cases look great!
1972 CB350F (Back from the Dead!)- http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20822.0
1965? S65 - Coming Eventually!
1972 CB750K2 (father-son project)
1976 CB750K6- (sold) http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=96859.0
1976 CB750K6 (sold)- http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=62569.0

Offline RickB

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #114 on: March 31, 2010, 12:45:08 AM »
Yeah, I'm happy with them too. I just got back from helping my dad take his 1971 BMW 3.0 CS into the shop to begin it's restoration. The guy he uses was so helpful with my motorbike, he's going to spray my tank and help me with chrome and anything else I can throw at him.

I just read on your page hoodellyho about the fork lowers. I'm doing that exact same thing now, so thanks for the 'how to' guide. I believe the 400F is the same, so I'd love to know how to put them back together correctly (including the amount of fork oil, as my manuals are with my mechanic and I'm stuck).

Thanks again,
Rick.

Offline HedNut

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #115 on: March 31, 2010, 07:35:27 AM »
Hey RickB! Wow....looking Great! DANG' that engine is slick-clean!  Great to have you back on the bike! Sounds like quite the awesome tour you just came back frome.
Love this build!
Cheers!

Offline TWINFIN

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #116 on: March 31, 2010, 08:54:00 AM »
 Some serious work here! LOOKS WORTH IT though.
 Hey with the Hydro-blasting ...do you put a clear coat or clear powder coating on your engine afterwords to prevent oxidation from occurring in the future?  So someone adjusted the timing chain against the gasket and then never noticed the chain noise that must have followed shortly afterwords ....yikes!
 Where did you surf in Baja?? I miss that place!
"KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN AND THE SHINY SIDE UP"

'76 CB400-Four (my 3rd)
'75 Yamaha RD350 (my 4th RD)
...and a bunch of older XR dirtbikes

Offline RickB

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #117 on: March 31, 2010, 07:31:14 PM »
Twinfin,

I'm not sure if it'll be coated with anything. The Laverda in the photo had it's engine hyrdro-blasted exactly like mine 7 years ago and it looks great still, so I'm not sure it's needed. But I don't know much about the process, maybe someone here has some advice on that?

As for Baja, a mate and I bought a '95 Ford Aerostar van in Utah for $500 and drove down to Cabo and back over 3 and a bit weeks. We weren't interested in TJ or Ensenada because of all the troubles those border towns are having. So we mainly surfed at San Juanico (aka Scorpion Bay) and Todos Santos (the town, not the islands). We never really scored epic waves, but Scorpion Bay was a great longboard wave. The Mexican's and the country-side was fantastic. We never had a problem; no Federales, no gangs or shakedowns, just super friendly and nice people. Although next time, I'd do it in a 4x4 RV of sorts, not a low clearance 'soccer mom' van.

Rick. 

Offline RickB

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #118 on: April 03, 2010, 05:27:20 AM »
Hi all,

So I've been back in the shed the last to days working on the bike. Very frustrating work actually. I've had some issues with fork lowers and brake calipers. Mainly stuck bolts.

Firstly, forks. I had to sand off a lot of oxidized muck and bits of baked on dirt etc. In hindsight, maybe I would have been better using a liquid remover because getting the fork lower back to a nice consistent brushed aluminum has been difficult.



As you can see, the area where I've sanded had a completely different texture than the rest. I could just sand the whole thing to take away the 'patchiness' but the rest of the aluminum looks great. Other than using 10 varying grades of sand paper, is there a better way to achieve the brushed aluminum look? I have to get some extra engine pieces hydro-blasted, so I'm thinking of taking these in with them but worry they might come back too shiny and not 'brushed'. Would bead-blasting get the desired effect?

Aside form the aesthetic stuff, I can't for the life of me get one of the hex/allen bolts out from the base of the fork lower:



After some effort, I managed to get it to turn but now it just spins freely. It's not striped because I can hear and feel the 'under seat pipe' spinning in the fork lower case. The question is, how do I stop that pipe from spinning when I turn the hex bolt? I've tried compressing the fork tube in the bench-vice with one arm whilst turning the hex bolt, but it still turns. It's very frustrating.

So I got over trying to wrestle the forks on my own and started on the brake caliper and master cylinder. The front caliper have been tricky. It is completely seized up.





Before I could even get to the caliper, the arm that holds it on is seized. With a bench-vice and some muscle, I was able to get the joint off, but the pin above won't budge. I tried soaking it overnight in petrol and then giving it some whacks with the hammer, but I'm scared of mushrooming the end. It's an awkward angle to try and clamp/vice it out. Does it even come out? The manual shows it's like a pivot axle thing, but I'm starting to think it isn't meant to come apart.

Because I couldn't get that to move, I thought I'm pull the actual caliper apart and rebuilt it. I have high temperature engine paint and new seals and pads, so I was excited. Nope, seized again!



This is the caliper side brake pad. How on earth do I get this off the caliper? As you can see, I've already tried a chisel and a hammer. Nope. It's not pinned on in anyway. I put it in a vice and wound it tight until the pad sunk into the piston and brake fluid shot out, but now it won't return to 'out'. I've soaked it overnight in petrol too. Would a seized piston mean the pad would not come off? Because I don't have any working brake lines, I'm not able to try pumping it off. Maybe compressed air would work?

Because I couldn't get that out, I thought I'd try removing the bleed screw. You guessed it, seized!





As I said, I soaked the caliper overnight in petrol and set it up in the vice. I got out the 8mm ring-spanner and lent into it. It promptly broke off. #$%*. Now what do I do? Drill it out? If I get a 7mm drill bit, could that work?



This is the cap to my master cylinder. Anyone know why it would have French on it? Also, can I get a replacement the same as this, I like it.

I had been dreading doing the brakes because I thought they were complicated. Now I can throw in frustrating too!

Rick.
« Last Edit: April 03, 2010, 05:36:11 PM by RickB »

Offline fasturd

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #119 on: April 03, 2010, 06:33:26 AM »
You can use a reverse drill bit to drill out the bleeder. It cuts in the oppisite direction so its constantly cutting and twisting "out" either way you get it out or its drilled...

The piston most likely can be pressed out with a grease gun. You close the bleeder screw and put a zirc in the brake line hole. Attach a grease gun and pump. The piston has ALWAYS come out of me. You will end up using about 1.5 to 2 table spoons of grease no big deal to save hours of messing around.

The pivot on your brake swing arm should basically just fall out they are a tight nice slip fit.

In the end you might beway better off recycling the caliper and arm and finding a better used one. Nothing worse than spending hours on a project that will end up just going in the bin.


Good luck.

Bill
13 in the garage and counting...

Link to my link...   http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=58422.0

Offline Rich361

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #120 on: April 03, 2010, 03:14:51 PM »
Hi Rick B,

All the problems you are having are the same as I've had or got at the moment... Must be a 400F thing!!

The Brake caliper arm - I tighened the flat peice in the vice and gently started rocking it backwards and forwards.  Squirted heaps in WD40 around the place and slowly it started to loosen off and pull off.  There is nothing actually holding that pin in place except for a couple of rubber O rings and whatever rust and grime is in there.

Brake Caliper Bleeder - I tried everything to get mine out... Heat, WD40, welding a nut to the top and trying to un screw it, drilling it out, ezi outs....  sorry to say all unsuccessful...  Evetually mine snapped of flush with the top of the caliper and not much else I can do...  I'm looking for a second hand caliper from the states or a new one from DSS (very pricey though!!) Can't find any in New Zealand.. Hope you have better luck than me...

Polishing Front Forks - I did mine with a buffing wheel on my bench grinder and used some Cut N Polish and just cut and buffed the forks until they can up shiney...  My forks had a few dents and grooves in the surface but for the finish I wanted... came up great!!  Mine had old clear coat that I had previously done... looked crap... happy with them now!!  Did the brake caliper arm while is was at it...  From start to finish, It only took a few hours.... (I hate sanding!!)

Piston Stuck - I used compressed air to get mine out... Just be careful though... I cranked my compresser up full power and used the blow gun and pushed it down into where the brake hose attaches, the brake pad shot across my garage like a bullet with a huge bang!!... Grease gun may have been safer but I don't have a empty one... It was fun but don't stand in front of it....

Good luck...

Rich

« Last Edit: April 04, 2010, 09:55:08 PM by Rich361 »
1975 CB400F

Offline fasturd

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #121 on: April 04, 2010, 08:50:12 PM »
When you use a grease gun you use it FULL of grease. It is the pressure of the grease that forces the piston out nice and slow.
13 in the garage and counting...

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Offline RickB

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #122 on: April 05, 2010, 06:51:47 AM »
Hi guys,

Thanks for the help. I spent all day in the shed today. I spent almost the entire time on the brake caliper swing-arm, trying to remove the brake piston and the spinning fork hex bolt.

The swingarm: I heated it up, removed the o-ring I could see and squirted Penetrene Oil into it. I managed to get the bolt raised out of swing-arm 8 or millimeters. It didn't want to go fursther than that. So I'm going to soak it for a few more days as I'm out of ideas.

The caliper piston: After fashioning all kinds of rubber nozzles for my air compressor, I've decided I don't have the tools for the compressed air or grease gun option. Forget taking the bleed screw out on my own. My girlfriends dad is an engineer, I'm going over to his place for some professional help.

The fork hex bolt. I had an idea. I'm going to cut a broom stick or something off, remove the spring and try to put pressure on the under seat pipe that way. It does have a small, 2cm spring under it but it'll be easier than trying to put weight on the whole fork.

The fork lowers: I can't get them looking how I want with the tools I have. I'm going to get them hydro-blasted or whatever my Dad's body shop guy can recommend. Everything on this bike is so new and shiny, I can't have the forks starting off patchy.

I'm getting a bit carried away with this bike now! I'd replace every bolt if I could. The old restoration adage that 'your best part becomes your worst part' is starting to come true.

More photos when I actually get something done!

Rick.

Offline malcolmgb

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #123 on: April 06, 2010, 02:27:22 PM »
The bleed nipple can be drilled out and the casting tapped to a larger diameter, there is a kit available in the US that contains an adapter with a new bleed nipple in it. If you do a search on 'Bleed valve repair' or similar, BryanJ did a great write up on it.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=30491
The pivot pin is best done with some patience and heat, I've been there!
The fork hex bolt, try an impact driver or a hammer drill with the correct size hex socket, the shock will hopefully break the freeze.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2010, 03:29:40 PM by malcolmgb »
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1977 CB400F
1973 CL175 K7
1976 XL175 - Sold
1964 CL72
1966 CA78
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Offline fastbroshi

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Re: 1975 Honda CB400 Four Project - Rookie
« Reply #124 on: April 06, 2010, 10:14:39 PM »
Maybe you can get that pivot pin out by putting in some soft jaws in a vice and knocking it out with a brass punch.
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