Topic: accelerator pump outlets

[audiofile]

happy holiday! well i'm rebuilding a spare set of carbs for my 750K8, carb model is 42B, same as the set on board now. i'm having trouble with the #2 carb on the bike, no accel pump and it idles rough at 2-3.5k but runs great thru the power band. really winds up thru the gears, up to 8k if i miss a gear. on the spare set, the accel pump outlets are solid, no hole for the fuel. what the?!! not just the one in the pic, all four are solid on the ends. can i get these out and replace or drill 'em? the other pic is of the jet bowl. the slow jet is really in there. these carbs were is horrific shape, everything was pretty much entombed. i don't want to screw them up. if you look at the idle/mixture screws, I've screwed them up to the point of having to drill them out, already ordered a set of these. could use a lot of advice here. wanted to be able to ride with the other set while it rebuilt the original carbs but this could get spendy. hope everybody has sun for the weekend, got some here with a threat of rain almost every day, bummer.

[GammaFlat]

The accelerator "orifices" are very small.  They make a nice sssssspray.  It is really hard to see the opening with my naked eyes (I have "mature" eyes).  

Nice looking bike in the avatar - I may do yellow with my K7 or K8.  Where'd you get that color? 

[audiofile]

thanks for the compliment, picture doesn't show the metal flake or the mother of pearl. i got the slow jets out. are they supposed to have a hole all the way thru the length? can't see thru, or get a bread wrap thru it. also figured out a little trick of using a metal coat hanger to drive the float pins out, you can even do the adjacent float pin with long enough straight piece of hanger. maybe that should go into the tips 'n tricks, but probly not original thought. have you ever drilled out the mixture screws, they're brass so won't be hard metal but that's the easy part.

[GammaFlat]

Slow jets should have a hole end to end.  The word is to be cautious putting metal through the jet because it's soft and you could enlarge or distort the hole with a piece of metal that's harder.  Probably want to soak the jets real good in something that won't do bad things to the jet.  I'm sure others will jump in that are more experienced than me. 

[TwoTired]

The accelerator pump outlet holes are on the throat side of the post.  That's where they squirt, towards the engine intake.  If you still have the choke plate on, you will notice a hole in them, so as not to hinder the stream of fuel from the jet.

[audiofile]

now i see the hole in the sprayer, looking from the block side. thanks. tiny but i think i can get a bread tie into it. any advice on the slow jet, can't see any light thru any of them.

[TwoTired]

If I recall the squirt hole in the accel jet post was NOT round, square-ish and oblong.  I expect it is that way for a reason.  I cleaned mine with nothing harder than the cleaning liquid.

I assume you have the slow jets yanked from the carb body.
The hole in them is .35mm. so an .010 high E sting from a guitar should get a starter hole in them.  Then just clean and flush until the light is uniformly round seeing through them.  I use the aerosol canned carb cleaners with those long red tubes, to "pressure wash" the jets.  Even liquid in the jet will block the light, so dry them first.

Cheers,

[Inigo Montoya]

Honda used to make a carb cleaning tool. It was basically a series a different sized wires. These wires were not some soft metal like copper but fairly stout. The jets are not that easy to mess up. As long as you do not roto router them like crasy, you should be fine. Make sure every little hole is cleaned. Each one is important.

[eurban]

Honda used to make a carb cleaning tool. It was basically a series a different sized wires. These wires were not some soft metal like copper but fairly stout. The jets are not that easy to mess up. As long as you do not roto router them like crasy, you should be fine. Make sure every little hole is cleaned. Each one is important.

For cleaning, I'm a firm believer in using a material as soft or softer than the jet if at all possible.  Particularly the small pilot jets.  Soaking in dip carb cleaner for 20 minutes followed by a bath in boiling water usually softens up the crud enough that a single strand of copper wire will do the cleaning trick (followed by a shot of spray cleaner) . . . . I once thought (I was wrong BTW) that I needed larger pilots for my 836 project with the late carbs and bought a micro drill bit that was sized to aproximate a #40 opening rather than the stock #35.  I imagined that I would have to chuck the bit in a drill and run it through.  Guess what? All it took was hand pressure with a slight twisting motion to go from a 35 to 40. How different is a drill bit from a steel cleaning wire?? Perhaps a bit but the thickness of the metered section of the pilot is very small.  In my experience it is infact quite easy to mess up the jets.

[Inigo Montoya]

Well a drill bit is made to remove material so it is not surprising that the twist did just that.
Like I said, if you do not roto the hell out of the jets, you should not mess them up.
The nice thing about jets is that you can clean for either side. If you put the rod in one side and it does not go through, flip the jet around and go the other way.
What a person needs to remember is that it is like soldering on a pcb. It is exacting and you cant just go crazy on it.

[Mattbastard]

I just put the smallest sewing needle on the end of a small coffee straw (I glued it in there) and just rested the tip of the needle in the hole and turned it a bit back and forth.  I don't care if it's slightly rounded, they looked round to me from the start anyway.  It's an accelerator and these bikes run lean anyway.

[audiofile]

i took a paper clip and sharpened it to point, and fished it down into the slow jet till i found a hole. it appears it was drilled from both sides w/different sized bits until there holes met. the hole is so tiny that i wonder how it could remain unblocked w/o an absolutely clean fuel. also used said paper clip to check other openings. poked it into the accel jet openings which were corroded shut. thanks for the tip as to the wholes location TT. i did get one of the mixture screws out with a impact bit and socked locked into a ratchet so i could use my weight, 2 still stuck flush with surface, or below. am drilling one out, we'll see how that goes. been soaking in penetrating oil for a week.

[mustangcar]

those squirters do pop out from the bottom there are round brass plugs under the carb bodies that they pop out from,i did take mine out and stuck a bristle wire though them to clean them out,but its risky trying to get them out apply steady firm pressure with some chanel locks press down and they will slide down taking out the round  brass plugs out, best to get experience with a spare carb body,if you make the holes just a bit bigger like i did with a micro drill bit ( big mistake)on my first try all the fuel will  spray out of the main#2 carb there will be not enough of a pressure build up of fuel to spread out to the1,3,4 squirters,,,,they need to have a super small hole,a bristle wire from a welding  wire brush is all thats needed ,good thing i had a spare set of carbs that i took out the other set of squirters as i trashed the first set drilling them

[audiofile]

good advice mustang. i'm sure to screw them up if take them out. suppose i could jb weld or epoxy if they got loose coming out. i won't reem the squirt hole but i needed to see a hole there at least. is there a way to test the accel pump squirters? put pressure into the tubes that connect the carbs, blocking off one side, and test one at a time? carb cleaner can ends up in my face.

[TwoTired]

I tested my accelerator pump on the bench.
I held the carb bank in a vise, filled the #2 bowl with gas and actuated the plunger to prime the pump, installed the bowl, then actuate the pum rod or the throttle, to observe the squirters operate once the lines are primed.  I also watched for equal shots from each nozzle.

[audiofile]

thanks TT, i am looking for away to check the accel pump install, and the nozzle opening. i'll get some gas into the bowl and block off the outlets to the other carbs. then possibly add a carb to one side or other to bench check the pump. when i got these carbs, the accel pump actuator rod was about the only moving part that did move freely. the float bowls were white with water deposits. thought about limeaway but that stuff is nasty. instead i spent hours scraping down to the metal, and gently opening the passages.

[TwoTired]

Those white deposits weren't lime deposits, or water deposits.  That was what the base metal converted to after corrosive effects.  The pits you found inside the carbs is where those white deposits came from.

I never had to disassemble the carb bank, I feel that is unnecessary 90% of the time.  To check individual passageways, though, I find the aerosol cans of carb cleaner with those red tube nozzle attachments quite effective.

However, carb cleaner won't dissolve aluminum (or zinc) oxide.

[audiofile]

thanks TT. i was wondering where the material from the float pin towers went. gammaflat, the paint came from advanced auto, they can mix any paint color and put it into a can. mine has metal flake canary yellow with mother of pearl clear. looks cool in the sun when you walk around. the side covers were busted up so i have to get them to match a color. bought great set of covers w/emblems but they came in black so i have cheaper set ready to paint as a test for color match, gunna be fun.  can't get the mixture screws out of two carbs. i may end up with expensive spare parts. can't buy the throttle body from hondaparts, cmsnl, or d silver--everything but. i think the pitting material went into bonding the mixture screw threads. thanks to eurban and vinman also.

[gild01]

hi, do know were i could get the accelerator pump squirts, i had one broken.....

thanks in advance.

diego