Author Topic: 400 timing chain  (Read 818 times)

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mazdamx640

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400 timing chain
« on: June 23, 2009, 07:44:49 AM »
i have a 76 cb400 that has a little over 14,000 miles do i need to replace the timing chain before i get it running?

Offline mattcb350f

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  • 1974 CB350F
Re: 400 timing chain
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2009, 09:06:27 AM »
The tensioner system is usually the problem rather than the chain itself. I suggest you get it running first and see how it sounds. Be very carefull with the tensioner bolt which can easily break off in the case.

You have to spit the cases to change the chain unless you buy a soft link, in which case, you can do this from the top. Unless you already have the engine apart, leave the chain for now.

Oh, and search 400F cam chain adjustment....There are several different ways but Honda's way is to adjust it while running as per the Honda Manual.

 Matt.
1974 CB350F,  1980 CB125S,  1981 XL80S
Non Honda's: 86 & 87 Husqvarna 400wr's

My CB350F resto: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=30467.0
Gallery at:
http://gallery.sohc4.net/main.php?g2_itemId=298318

mazdamx640

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Re: 400 timing chain
« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2009, 09:55:14 AM »
thanks for the advice.

Offline Bodi

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Re: 400 timing chain
« Reply #3 on: June 23, 2009, 03:45:14 PM »
The chain is pretty strong and I haven't heard of one breaking with a stock cam and valve springs. There is an extra strength one available that is recommended if you add a hot cam and stronger springs.
The tensioner system is prone to trouble. The horseshoe thing at the bottom of the engine will be damaged if the chain is too loose, generally locking it up solid and making adjustment impossible. The tensioner locking bolt is a real oddball with two different threads on it, and overtightening it will snap it off. be careful!
The tensioner slides, which rub against the chain all the time, wear out. 14000 isn't a lot but the slides are getting hard to find.
The Honda adjustment method does not work. I thing the spring it relies on has lost it's strength over 30 years, but anyway if you loosen the adjuster with the engine running you'll have a very loose timing chain.
The normal way for me to do it is to remove the top cap bolt that just plugs the hole the adjuster rod is in, nothing will fall out of there. using a longish nail or thin screwdriver, press down on the end of the rod (helping the spring). While pressing, with engine idling, loosen the locking screw. Press as hard as required to just silence the rattle. Snug up the lock bolt and replace the top cap bolt.