Author Topic: Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K  (Read 1692 times)

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Offline quidger

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Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K
« on: August 11, 2009, 09:05:59 AM »
This is the second time I've taken the carbs off the '78 CB550 to clean them. Obviously I didn't get it right the first time. Without constant fiddling with the choke and idle screw the bike was difficult to start and the idle was all over the board. I did not take the slow jet out the first time and from several of the threads that I have read here on the forum, it seems likes it's unanimous that you need to take them out even though they are pressed in.
During the second cleaning last night everything was going well until I tried to get the sow jet out. I know that brass is very soft so I wrapped a cloth around the slow jet and I slightly crushed the top part of the jet trying to pull it out. I attached a picture so you get the full effect of my handy work. If I can get the jet out I think that I can even out the raised area that I crushed into the jet.
Would it help if I squirted WD-40 on the slow jet for a couple of days and let it seep in a bit?
Any other advice on the procedure to remove these little buggers would be helpful.
I avoided trying to get these jets out during the first cleaning because I was very skittish that it was not a job for a newbie, but I want my newly purchased bike to be reliable and if I have to adjust the idle screw at every stop sign, that ain't good.
So advice from experienced members is appreciated.
Also when I take the air screws and springs out there is supposed to be a tiny gasket and o-ring in each of the orifices, correct? If that is right, in what order do they go back into the hole? They did not come out with the spring and screw but I think if I blow compressed air into the slide area it should blow them out if they are indeed in there. It is impossible to see down in those little holes with old man eyes.
Thanks for your input.


Offline punch455

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Re: Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2009, 09:57:13 AM »
Don't worry at all about that crushed lip. It won't affect anything. Just get a set of pliers on them and twist while pulling up.  Scratching the outside of the jets won't hurt anything either.  Try as you might, it is gonna prove very difficult to actually crush one of these slow jets. 

As for the mixture screws, the order (from carb body - out) is o-ring, washer, spring, screw.  There is no gasket that I am aware of. These are PD carbs right? A set of dental pics comes in pretty handy while removing some of the o-rings that are located deep in the channels.  If you use compressed air, be prepared to do a little bit of searching in case one of those little buggers goes airborne.  Good luck!
'78 CB750F
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Offline quidger

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Re: Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2009, 11:06:50 AM »
I assume that it would be best, not only for gripping power but for not mangling the jets, to grip as low as possible on the jet to pull it out.
Should I get a measurement on how deep the slow jet is set into the orifice so when I tap it back in that I get it to the correct depth?

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2009, 11:34:01 AM »
I assume that it would be best, not only for gripping power but for not mangling the jets, to grip as low as possible on the jet to pull it out.
Should I get a measurement on how deep the slow jet is set into the orifice so when I tap it back in that I get it to the correct depth?


I have a pair of parallel pliers that seem to be well suited for slow jet extraction.  Hardly any jet marring.  I don't like the twist action, as it grinds off more material at the interface than straight extraction pulling.  (grunting helps)  :)

There is a step on the jet body that limits the installation depth.
 If either the jet body or the carb body changes interference fit dimension, there could be retention problems (probably only after repeated extraction/insertion cycles).
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline quidger

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Re: Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2009, 12:16:22 PM »
I read one suggestion on the forum to run a guitar string into one of the small air passage hole on the air intake side of the carburetor and into the "emulsion tube"? Not quite sure about the emulsion tube.

Should the guitar string be used to run into the slow/idle small air intake hole also for cleaning purposes.

I have also seen a couple of members mention Simple Green as a good cleaner. Is this for cleaning the outside of the carburetor or is it for soaking the entire carb to clean the inside?

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2009, 12:56:49 PM »
I read one suggestion on the forum to run a guitar string into one of the small air passage hole on the air intake side of the carburetor and into the "emulsion tube"? Not quite sure about the emulsion tube.
The emulsion tubes resides near the outlet of a jet orifice.  It's a tube with cross-drilled holes, liquid flows into the tube and then air is mixed with it, forming a fuel/air emulsion that is later delivered to the carb throat.  Both the idle jet and the main jet have these emulsion tubes.  An air/fuel emulsion flows, and more readily mixes, with the flow of air in the carb throat.

Should the guitar string be used to run into the slow/idle small air intake hole also for cleaning purposes.
As a last resort, if you can't clear the orifice with less aggressive means.  Guitar string/hard,  jet body/soft, risk of orifice alteration.

I have also seen a couple of members mention Simple Green as a good cleaner. Is this for cleaning the outside of the carburetor or is it for soaking the entire carb to clean the inside?
From reports, it is used over the entire carb inside and out.  Not over night, as the metal will discolor due to pH issues.
I prefer carb cleaner.  Those aerosol cans with the little red tube taped on to it is pretty handy for "normal" cleaning.  Carb dip for the worst ones.  Both these eat rubber bits, whereas the simple green won't.  Each tool has it use and required knowledge base.  The pressure of the aerosol is great for proving air a fuel passageways.  Better than compressed air.  Seeing air movement can be problematic.

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline quidger

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Re: Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2009, 07:05:32 PM »
Okay, I got the slow jets out. A little elbow grease and they popped out. #1 was really bad and the other 3 needed to be cleaned but not as bad as #1. Thanks to TT and Punch for the advice.
The only issue that I have is that one of the o-rings from the air screw is almost worn through in one small area. The other 4 washers and 3 o-rings from the air screw orifices are in good condition.
I'm sure it is not easy to get one small o-ring to replace the one that is bad. But if some one on the forum has a clue where I might go to track one down, I would appreciate your input and suggestions.
I may be able to use this one. It is not torn all the way through but if I can replace I will.
Thanks.

Offline quidger

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Re: Carb mangling & struggling 1978 CB550K
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2009, 06:30:05 PM »
I found the air screw washers and o-rings for my 1978 CB550 carbs from hondanut@comcast.net

Thought they would be impossible to find.

Doug is a great guy to do business with and has a lot of vintage replacement parts.