Author Topic: Cam chain adjustment  (Read 4808 times)

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Offline XxDarkEuphoriaxX

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Cam chain adjustment
« on: August 27, 2009, 12:08:08 PM »
So, I finally got around to loosening the locking nut, while the bike was running... and loosened the bolt out a few times...didnt notice anything different sounding etc. then tightened the bolt back where it was then tightened the locking nut...

Is the bolt supposed to be tightened back to where it was after it is loosened out to let the bike "automatically" adjust the cam chain?

How far out are you supposed to loosen the bolt anyways? I only did a few turns... is it supposed to be more than that?

Thanks
1972 CB350F

Offline Johnie

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2009, 05:05:43 PM »
Nope...you did it right.  I usually go to where I can loosen it with my finger then tighten it up. 
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Offline fmctm1sw

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2009, 05:15:28 PM »
The problem with these tensioners is that the cam chain can chew into them and them and they freeze.  Here's a picture of one I took out of a 400F engine.  This "horseshoe" is supposed to pivot freely and push up against the cam chain tensioner arm by sprung weight.  Sometimes guys remove the top bolt and push down on the rod with a slim screwdriver or something.  I put a picture of the whole thing in here too...
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Offline Hush

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2009, 05:24:46 PM »
I had been following the Clymer manual on adjusting the cam chain on my 650, remove side cover remove spark plugs, attach large socket to outer nut and turn clock wise slowly while releaseing the tensioner (by the way this is impossible to do unless you are an octupus) then retighten and rebuild all the bits you removed. >:(
Hell, when I learned from this forum I could just idle the bike and back the adjuster off then retighten I was elated! ;D
I think the thing I most like about motorcycling is the speed at which my brain must process information at to avoid the numb skulls who are eating pies, playing the ukulele, applying make-up etc in the comfort of their airconditioned armchairs as they make random attempts to kill me!!!!!!!

Offline XxDarkEuphoriaxX

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2009, 05:40:01 PM »
yeah I didnt really notice a positive difference... if anything its louder...

my bike makes so many engine noises, I can't even tell what the cam chain sounds like.
1972 CB350F

Offline jimbir

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #5 on: August 27, 2009, 06:56:28 PM »
Nope...you did it right.  I usually go to where I can loosen it with my finger then tighten it up. 

I'm trying to get this straight in my mind...
1.  Engine running.
2.  loosen locknut
3.  Now, what do I do with the adjustment screw? turn it in or out? How will I know when it's correctly adjusted?

4.  Tighten locknut.

Thanx, Jim B.
1976 Honda CB550F

Offline Hush

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2009, 07:11:05 PM »
Hi Jimbir, start bike, let it idle to a warm state then loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster bolt "OUT" (so that's anticlockwise if you like), a few turns should do it, don't actually remove the bolt, when you feel the adjuster has done it's work (usually you will get a definite lessening in engine noise) turn the adjuster bolt in until it is tight (don't over do this but definitely screw it in ) then lock it in place with the lock nut. :)
I think the thing I most like about motorcycling is the speed at which my brain must process information at to avoid the numb skulls who are eating pies, playing the ukulele, applying make-up etc in the comfort of their airconditioned armchairs as they make random attempts to kill me!!!!!!!

Offline jimbir

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2009, 07:15:12 PM »
Thanks, Jim
1976 Honda CB550F

Offline jimbir

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2009, 04:36:44 PM »
Hi Jimbir, start bike, let it idle to a warm state then loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster bolt "OUT" (so that's anticlockwise if you like), a few turns should do it, don't actually remove the bolt, when you feel the adjuster has done it's work (usually you will get a definite lessening in engine noise) turn the adjuster bolt in until it is tight (don't over do this but definitely screw it in ) then lock it in place with the lock nut. :)

Finally got some time to mess with with the adjuster. I can't turn the screw. If I don't touch it While the engine is running, it vibrates and there is a faint buzzing noise. With the locknut loose, If I push the screw in the buzz goes away. I can turn the screw about 1/4 turn CCW and 1/8 turn CW. but, it feels like it's attached to something and, when I stop trying to turn it, it returns to it's starting position as if it were on a "return spring". Turning it CW intensifies the buzz CCW stops the buzz.When I tighten the locknut, it pulls the screw out till it stops then the locknut will tighten. I guess my biggest concern it the fact that the screw doesn't turn.

Jim
1976 Honda CB550F

Offline bryanj

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2009, 11:26:50 PM »
Sounds to me like somebody has fitted a "normal" setscrew without releiving the threads at the end and this has ruined the threads in the engine case,

If i am right, and you really hope i aint, it means a lower crancase off to repair the threads with a helicoil
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Offline Hush

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #10 on: September 01, 2009, 01:32:21 AM »
OK might pay to do it the way the book says, think it is something like: remove righthand side engine cover, slacken camchain adjuster, turn the engine over slowly C/W using a large socket on the end of the "big-end" nut while retightening the cam chain adjuster.
It could be the engine is running too fast for the adjustment to occur (or the adjuster bolt is stuffed)

Question: is it a "bolt" or a "screw" that adjusts the cam chain on the 350f?
I think the thing I most like about motorcycling is the speed at which my brain must process information at to avoid the numb skulls who are eating pies, playing the ukulele, applying make-up etc in the comfort of their airconditioned armchairs as they make random attempts to kill me!!!!!!!

Offline jimbir

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #11 on: September 01, 2009, 05:48:28 AM »
It's a screw with a flat screwdriver slot cut in the end of it. Sorta like a headless setscrew.
1976 Honda CB550F

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2009, 07:48:13 AM »
Jimbir, you have a classic problem with the 500 and 550's cam chain tensioner. The tensioner works like a rack and pinion system, the set screw has 1/2 a sprocket on the end. The rack slides up and down the tensioner body. What happens is that the rack can move a little to much and gets jammed against the pinion. As well what can happen, if someone manually turns the screw (it should turn itself) and because the pinion is only 1/2 a sprocket, the rack can move past the last tooth on the pinion and the whole thing gets jammed. I love Honda engineering but this system is just stupid. I just spent 6 hours rebuilding mine and I had to use parts from 3 different (I have lots of parts bikes) ones to make 1 work. The body of the tensioner is not made to be taken apart so a lot is involved. They are extremely finicky, I recommedend that you but a new one.

Offline hoodellyhoo

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2009, 08:37:18 AM »
As it has been said before, the cam chain tensioner on the 350/400's isn't too swell. If you look in the picture that was posted before, that spring is what is supposed to apply tension to the chain. When you loosen the lock nut you allow the bar  inside the spring to move freely and the spring should take up the slack in the chain. Two things can happen over time: 1) the spring loses its "springiness" and no longer has the necessary force to tension the chain ans 2) If the motor is run with a lose camchain for too long it will rub against the joint in the horseshoe and eventually freeze it in place (as stated above).

What you have to do is essentially "help" the spring out a bit.

1) remove the bolt on the topside of the oil filter cover (the one that covers the top of the push bar)
2) Loosen the lock bolt and start the engine
3) Using a small screwdiver or something similar, push down on the push bar. The screwdriver has to be fairly narrow because the hole that the push bar actually moves in is quite small. I sometimes use a small precision type screwdriver like you would use on a pair of glasses or small electronics. Also, you may have to give the screwdriver a pretty good heave like I did. Your horseshoe is probably a bit tight and needs a good push to break it lose.
4) Push down just until the noise goes away. It is possible to apply too much force on the chain which could cause it to snap.
5) While you are pushing down, have a friend tighten the lock bolt. (I haven't figured out how to do it by myself yet)
6) Tighten the lock nut, reinstall the bolt from step #1 and ride.

Note: I always wear thick leather gloves or potholders to keep from burning my hands on the header pipes while I push on the push bar.

I think you will be amazed like I was at how quiet the motor becomes once you do this.
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Offline jimbir

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2009, 01:46:37 PM »
Here is a link to a video a member of this forum made showing how the 550 tensioner works. Watch the vid and read the thread for a real education. It all became clear to me...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=55569.msg627277#msg627277
1976 Honda CB550F

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2009, 02:11:58 PM »
Jimbar, see at approx 1:15 of the video that the bolt sort of moves side to side? There is to much slop in the stock tensioner and that is why they jam. If you see the little plate on the back side of the bolt with the two folded tabs over it, what I did is give them a tap with a punch to tighten the assembly. This makes sure the pinion stays in alignment with the rack. Not to much or the slide won't work. Like I said in the previous post it took me 3 different assemblies to make one. Either the rack or pinion teeth were screwed from previous owners, or on one the slot on the front of the bolt was broken off because someone got rammy and snapped it off. Good luck, those tensioners are the bane of my existance.

Offline BVCB650

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Re: Cam chain adjustment
« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2009, 03:50:14 PM »
I had been following the Clymer manual on adjusting the cam chain on my 650, remove side cover remove spark plugs, attach large socket to outer nut and turn clock wise slowly while releaseing the tensioner (by the way this is impossible to do unless you are an octupus) then retighten and rebuild all the bits you removed. >:(
Hell, when I learned from this forum I could just idle the bike and back the adjuster off then retighten I was elated! ;D




Not the way to do a 650.
1979 CB650, 25K miles, recently refurbished