Topic: C-Hook Engine Removal & Rotisserie Engine Stand

[Harsh]

is there a drawing like with exact measurements and angles I work with waterjets

I am at sea right now (Navy thing), but when I get back later in the week I can send you a file.  Unless you get it before then.

[runs_again]

I found myself wrestling with my 750 engine and making no progress.  Went looking for help on SOH4.net and discovered blake255's post.  I didn't have an engine hoist but did have two helpers.  I found a piece of 2x2 (2x4 that had been ripped down but a 2x4 would probably work) and placed it against the back of the engine resting on the the cam chain adjuster. This took the place of the bottom horizontal section of the C-Hook.   We then used the same strap technique Blake used to attach it to the engine.  Now with helpers at each end of the 2x2 they lifted up gently and I guided the back end using a bolt (in one of the rear mounting holes) for a handle.  Came right out without a fight. 

Thanks blake

[thrutheframe]

 
There is a downloadable .pdf of the C-Hook at the bottom of this post.[/b]  If I were to make another one, I would shorten the Throat "C", and lengthen the Lifting Arm "A".  If you decide to alter the dimensions, make sure that the Neck "B" is 1/2 the length of the Lifting Arm "A"....

any specifics on how much to shorten the throat and lengthen the lifting arm?

[blake255]

UPDATE 5/9/12: After a long absence, I have finally gotten .dxf files posted for anyone who would like to make a c-hook.  You can find the link here.  There are three versions, modify them as you see fit.  Again, I am not an engineer and make no claims as to fitness for any purpose. All I ask is that you take pictures and post them so that others may benefit.  It’s great to be back.  Thank you to all who have posted.

Blake

[BIGRUSS58]

Harsh,
     I know I've got the modified file and I'll see if I can find the original (or recreate it) and save them to dxf format and you can choose the one you want. It would be this evening or tomorrow evening, depends on how much want-to I've got left when I get home. 

That would be awesome.  I was looking at the pdf and noticed that the math was off on the top portion.  On the left side it says that it is 5 3/8", but when you add the right side number up (7/8 + 3 1/2 + 7/8) you get 5 1/4".  Not that it truly  matters, I just find it a little funny that no one has mentioned this before.

HI MATE HOW DO I GET A DRAWING OF THIS SO I CAN GET ONE LASER CUT
CHEERS RUSS

[madmtnmotors]

UPDATE 5/9/12: After a long absence, I have finally gotten .dxf files posted for anyone who would like to make a c-hook.  You can find the link here.  There are three versions, modify them as you see fit.  Again, I am not an engineer and make no claims as to fitness for any purpose. All I ask is that you take pictures and post them so that others may benefit.  It’s great to be back.  Thank you to all who have posted.

Blake

Harsh,
     I know I've got the modified file and I'll see if I can find the original (or recreate it) and save them to dxf format and you can choose the one you want. It would be this evening or tomorrow evening, depends on how much want-to I've got left when I get home. 

That would be awesome.  I was looking at the pdf and noticed that the math was off on the top portion.  On the left side it says that it is 5 3/8", but when you add the right side number up (7/8 + 3 1/2 + 7/8) you get 5 1/4".  Not that it truly  matters, I just find it a little funny that no one has mentioned this before.

HI MATE HOW DO I GET A DRAWING OF THIS SO I CAN GET ONE LASER CUT
CHEERS RUSS

Click on the link imbedded in Blake's post of the word "here" (highlighted in red in the quote above or navigate to the originial post) 

[BIGRUSS58]

Thanks to the work of a few folks here I now have a couple of .dxf files.  The original and the modified version Blake posted a picture of on the first page.  Unfortunatley, I can not attach them in the post.  I had a buddy of mine that is an engineer at NASA run a simulation on them to test for safety/strength.  The modified version is much stronger and since it uses less material it is the one I am going to use.

Original

Minimum factor of safety - 4.10
Maximum displacement - 0.00053 m

hi guys im not really up with this filing stuff all i want is a drawing i can download with the dimensions on it so i can make it , any help be great


Modified

Minimum factor of safety - 7.44
Maximum displacement - 0.000065 m

[madmtnmotors]

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwMXZ5vjjZWPcnFHOUxIbnpWWmM

[Harsh]

Well I have been having trouble getting the design cut out.  My buddy that has a computer controlled plasma cutter has just been too busy.  I was talking with a new guy at work and somehow the topic came up.  He asked about it and said that he does some blacksmithing at home and could make it for me.

He made it out of a drive shaft and even painted it for me.

[MikeKato]

Harsh

Have you put that one to the test yet,or if not,you have plans to anytime soon? That 3/4" stock?

Thnx!
mike

[Harsh]

No I haven't used it.  I was going to when I installed my engine, but my neighbor that  has an engine lift I was going to borrow was out of town on business.  Impatient I just dropped the frame over the engine.  I think it is thicker than 3/4".  When I go outside today I will get a measurement.

[madmtnmotors]

I ultimately chopped up some scrap tube steel I had laying around the shop and welded up my own:







I can start with a fully assembled, running bike, and have the motor out and on an engine stand in ninety minutes, by myself. The hardest part is assembling the engine hoist. The only modification I intend to do is to add a hook loop to the top tube and eliminate the leveler portion since the pick point is centered I don't use the leveler at all and it tends to brush the handlebars anyway.

[MikeKato]

Harsh:  Thanks!

 madmtnmotors:
" The only modification I intend to do is to add a hook loop to the top tube and eliminate the leveler portion since the pick point is centered I don't use the leveler at all and it tends to brush the handlebars anyway."

I'm not a very smart man. So after reading your planned modification and looking at your pics again I think I might have realized that I have been mistaken on how it works. The threaded rod was just to balance the engine and not used to crank it into the frame? It looks like you still have to push the hoist & motor into the frame;correct?

I think you're going to answer yes so I'll ask another question right away. If a guy made another insert for that engine hoist with a piece of bar stock welded on each side,that you could also weld to each side of that collar (eliminating the hook and chain) do you think it would be stable,balanced, enough to use the threaded rod to hand crank the engine into the frame?   

P.S. Some day I'll learn how to insert partial quotes on this board. I'll learn how to upload pics and drawings so thoughts aren't left to the imagination of the reader. In the last week I've figured out how to buy something on ebay,set-up a paypal account and online banking so there is hope that some day I'll be able to catch up to the technology available.

Thnx!
Mike

[madmtnmotors]

  The threaded rod was just to balance the engine and not used to crank it into the frame? It looks like you still have to push the hoist & motor into the frame;correct?

That is correct on both counts. The upper portion is a "load leveler" attachment for the hoist that is more commonly used with automotive engines. The hoist does have to be rolled back to remove the engine and rolled forward as the engine is put back in the frame. The threaded rod assembly would actually tilt the engine, which I thought might be useful but turns out a level lift is perfect without having to use the tilt attachment. I inch the hoist forward (and back during removal) just a little at a time. There is very minimal fuss either way.

    If a guy made another insert for that engine hoist with a piece of bar stock welded on each side,that you could also weld to each side of that collar (eliminating the hook and chain) do you think it would be stable,balanced, enough to use the threaded rod to hand crank the engine into the frame?

Not sure, can't picture it from the description. Almost sounds like you could be describing something that could almost be used standalone without the need of a hoist? (By adding some legs)


   

P.S. Some day I'll learn how to insert partial quotes on this board. I'll learn how to upload pics and drawings so thoughts aren't left to the imagination of the reader. In the last week I've figured out how to buy something on ebay,set-up a paypal account and online banking so there is hope that some day I'll be able to catch up to the technology available.

Thnx!
Mike

Progress!