OK, I am not sure why but the S/O sugested I spend the better part of Saturday in the shop... Well being a man, I in NO WAY what so ever gave it a second thought. I drank some coffee and ran my ass across the yard and got to work. First on the list was relocating the P/Os headlight on off switch. Since I removed the fairing it had no real place to live. I made a bracket that attached to the bar mounts but it looked cheap and obvious. I had to find something better. So while I was working on the rest of the front end I made a bracket that mounted the switch from the under side of the tripple to the space where the clutch cable and wires are routed. It works perfectly! It is hard to see but very easy to reach. Most people would never know it is there. Next it was on to a front master rebuild and left/right control detailing and lube.
Sooo...
First pic. is of the switch all nice and hidden.
Next I disassembled the clutch controls lubed everything and put it all back together.
Taking the master apart is always the muther &%#)#@! hardest part. I have a modified set of pliers that I use to remove the snap ring. Once the ring is out it is easy. There are plenty of posts on the rebuild process so I wont bore you all the details. But I will share a few tips.
All apart and clean.
I learned the hard way that aftermarket master kits suck. I think it was Hondaman that preaches the re-use of your Honda bits. I have to whole heartedly agree. They are usually just crusty and can be cleaned and reused. I don't use the snap ring tool to re-install the snap ring. I use an appropriate deep well socket and just press the ring into place WAY less effort.
Just make sure to get every thing CLEAN!!! The most important part is to make sure the smaller of the two holes in the cup of the master is OPEN. You will pull your hair out trying to bleed and then ride if this hole is plugged. If, when you get it all back together you go for a ride and the caliper wont release (and you already lubed the caliper pivot and cleaned the piston oring) then it is this hole that is causing your problems. If it is blocked pressure cannot be properly released and the brake will continue to apply itself causing squeeling, overheating and eventual wheel lock up... Don't say I didn't warn you.
In this pic. you will notice a little piece of tubing. When these masters were new there was a little piece of rubber tubing in the "hole" under the silver cover. It works as a damper for the brake lever. I use a piece of BMW 6mm silicone vacuum hose. It fits perfectly and the damping is noticable. NOW you know, so there is NO excuse for not replacing it.
If you look closely you can see where it goes. Here it is ready to shove into place.
Crammed home and covered up.
So the master is assembled and ready to mount. Bleeding is always fun right? If you do it right it goes quickly.
By this point you are pretty familiar with the master. As I start the bleeding process I use a tube from a can of brake cleaner to help prod bubbles from the larger hole. Just tap the brake lever do not pump yet. As you tap it you will notice bubbles comming from both holes. Keep at it. Everynow and then poke the tube into the larger hole to help release the bubbles. When no more bubbles come out of the larger hole and the smaller hole is less active place the tube on top of the smaller hole. This acts to deflect the fluid that comes back into the master. You really want to do this or the master will "spit" brake fluid out and mostly likely it wall land some where you don't want to see it...
Now its time to start pumping I use the slow and easy way, it works for me. Some people like to pump the #$%* out of it...to each his own. When the lever is out at its stop start to pull it in then open the nipple. Bring it back to the hand grip, hold and close the nipple. do this until you build a nice solid lever.
This is as far as my lever goes when properly bled. Remember this system has been completely cleaned. The caliper and the master has been rebuilt and the caliper swingarm has been lubed and moves freely. This bike will stop on a dime. I have never had a problem with any of my brakes and on a 400 I see no need for a dual front disc set up if the single system is working properly. I can use two fingers on a set up like this and watch the fork bend. Plenty of stopping power for me.
I am soooo close to buttoning all this up. I cannot wait to get it all done. Next time out I will bleed the rear disc and mount the tank and side covers.
Waiting...
