Author Topic: I've been K0'd! #4 was parted out, now getting parted in. (Read 116561 times)

Alan F. · « **Reply #750 on:** February 14, 2022, 11:30:16 am »

Quote from: BenelliSEI on February 12, 2022, 07:34:52 am

..... I see the blank covers are back up on Vintagecb750.com. $39.99
Some Honda ones on EBay for $200! Nice find for you....

https://www.vintagecb750.com/products/4/engine/125/engine-covers-accessories

Took me a while to find so I thought I'd link it here for everyone.

Don R · « **Reply #751 on:** February 20, 2022, 11:15:56 pm »

Opinions please,
I have a bare sandcast head ID'd under serial number around 200, since it has no opposite end O ring under the cam towers. Since it has no numbers would it be a waste to use it on a 14,000 diecast engine? It's a way nicer head than the other early type head I have. A few sleeves, timeserts or helicoils and more fin weld sanding could fix that. The PO oversized a few bolts. Way over.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #752 on:** February 21, 2022, 06:19:05 am »

Don..... offer it up in the right places. You might be surprised what you get for it?

Don R · « **Reply #753 on:** February 21, 2022, 09:19:51 am »

I was offered $400 once but it was the only no center bolt head I had at the time. The guy I got the drilled-out head and cylinder from had put a cb750 engine into an original harley davidson servicar. Says something about his choices.
I told him it was cool, but the money said put it back like it was.

Don R · « **Reply #754 on:** February 21, 2022, 09:38:41 pm »

The K0's are all parked under covers today but that old smokin low rider barn rat was out there hitting the street. A little salt ain't hurting those rims. I practiced burnouts with the back tire in the snow. That tire still looks brown.

Don R · « **Reply #755 on:** March 07, 2022, 01:05:15 pm »

I've gathered all of the parts for a diecast motor, it's a no number replacement case a sandcast bike that found a matching number engine to be restored with. I think I'll do a mock assembly to be sure it's all there so I can sell or trade other motors.

I'm wondering if the 14,100 frame # bike is worth more with a no number diecast engine than it is with a K4 836, ported, cammed, electronic ign. motor? I'm thinking it is.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #756 on:** March 08, 2022, 04:40:36 am »

Quote from: Don R on March 07, 2022, 01:05:15 pm

I've gathered all of the parts for a diecast motor, it's a no number replacement case a sandcast bike that found a matching number engine to be restored with. I think I'll do a mock assembly to be sure it's all there so I can sell or trade other motors.

I'm wondering if the 14,100 frame # bike is worth more with a no number diecast engine than it is with a K4 836, ported, cammed, electronic ign. motor? I'm thinking it is.

I agree. The no numbers fits the timeline, where the K4 obviously went in years later.....

Don R · « **Reply #757 on:** March 08, 2022, 08:31:10 am »

I have a different hot rod bike now to beat on so the diecast can get its wire wheels and correct motor. L0L.
I located the K0 front wheel with a correct wide flange hub and think there's another one somewhere in the totes. Alas, I do not have a rolled rear rim anywhere.
Z1parts had an 18"did rim, they seem to be the only people besides DSS with one to sell. The Nugget got a new DID rim when I assembled it. There were too many bikes with hog rims over the years.

Don R · « **Reply #758 on:** March 31, 2022, 05:20:30 pm »

I ordered a rear DID 18" rim from Z1 parts. Them and DSS seemed to be the only suppliers that had one. I laid out the 2 hole rear K0 hub and wide front K0 hub. I may use an original front rim and hub and just re-spoke it.
I was forced to cut a tire off my 3.5x18 aluminum rim at the bike shop after the owner appeared to be unable to grip the rim in the machine. A razor knife all the way around and now the slick looks like a good tire swing. The beads were broke already and they came off with a little lube and a tug. I'll probably cut the tires off this one too.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #759 on:** March 31, 2022, 06:06:40 pm »

Don.... do you have a spoke set? I had a heck of a time finding ones with “gold” nipples.....

Don R · « **Reply #760 on:** April 01, 2022, 08:44:22 am »

I haven't found gold ones either, vintage cb750.com had some with gold nipples, I notice many of the spoke sets say silver/silver now. The ones I find in gold lack the round section on the top end.
At one time I considered buying sets of 750A spokes to just get the correct nipples or a yellow chromate kit from Caswell. My brother said he had purchased a zinc plating kit for the bolts on his Dart, I was going to take it off his hands and replate a batch of old stockers but now he doesn't think he pulled the trigger on the buy.

https://caswellplating.com/yellow-chromate.html

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #761 on:** April 01, 2022, 10:15:12 am »

Don....... I bought this set on EBay about a year ago. They were fairly inexpensive. Quality was “good” but if you look closely, the nipples are a bit long. They laced up so well, I just went with it. Sometimes I think we may be getting a bit too worked up on some of the details.......

Don R · « **Reply #762 on:** April 01, 2022, 01:33:52 pm »

Agreed. I laced up the rolled rim on the sandcast and later noticed the round end was missing on the nipples. At the time there were proper reproductions and/or stock Honda spokes out there.
I kept the old nipples and degreased them today, another batch are swimming in vinegar to see if the rust comes off easily. I'd expect the yellow to melt away also.

Don R · « **Reply #763 on:** April 01, 2022, 09:10:25 pm »

I degreased and vinegar washed some spokes and nipples today and for the most part they are quite nice looking. I can only wonder if there is any zinc left on them.
I'm planning to use the correct looking nipples, 48 or so of them were already clean and another batch are in the juice now. I went ahead and soaked the short nipples from the drop center 18 x 3 1/2" DID rim.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #764 on:** April 02, 2022, 05:45:21 am »

You should try Terry’s brew. I bought a 1 gallon container of STEARN’s Milkstone Remover from a local farm supply and mix it 16:1 with water. Strips rust like crazy. Lasts forever and then easy to dispose.

Don R · « **Reply #765 on:** April 02, 2022, 01:17:54 pm »

I have a 5 gallon jug of bricklayers Muriatic acid. It's done several gas tanks and is probably less potent than new. I was sold a rust free gl100 tank from a crook. No rust outside, all rust inside. It did clean up with a 5 day soak and a northern blue tank sealer.

Don R · « **Reply #766 on:** April 09, 2022, 08:51:38 am »

I got the new DID rim from z1parts yesterday. I think I'll use new rims rather than old gouged up ones. I'm still debating on the polishing original nipples or using the new, less correct looking ones.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #767 on:** April 10, 2022, 02:57:03 pm »

Don..... use the new ones. For years, I’ve also had a couple of small bottles of thread lube (they came with a set of Buchanan spokes a friend bought). They finally ran out. Stuff smelt like molasses and really was excellent. What do you use?

Don R · « **Reply #768 on:** April 16, 2022, 04:56:29 pm »

I've used anti seize and assembly lube. I haven't seen spoke lubricant yet.
Today I'm cleaning up a sandcast fork assembly, it came off of a really low number frame I sold 15 years ago way too cheap. I'm using a newer K0 fork for parts.
I hope to turn it, and a late number K0 with a 71 title, frame and engine I have into some big bore cylinder money.

Don R · « **Reply #769 on:** April 26, 2022, 09:18:57 pm »

I had to refer back to this thread to see what paint I used on the Diecast's Lesters. It was Rustoleum low gloss engine enamel. I'm tempted this time to use VHT roll bar and chassis paint.
It's medium gloss and self priming, should do the RC Hot Rod just fine.

It's good to have these threads to refresh my memory once in a while.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #770 on:** April 27, 2022, 02:16:27 am »

Make sure that you etch prime the bare(?) wheels before you paint them Don, no paint likes to stick to bare aluminium for any length of time.

Don R · « **Reply #771 on:** May 18, 2022, 03:39:55 pm »

I decided not to prime those rims or paint them. I left them ratty to keep the barn find theme. And I'm too lazy.

Don R · « **Reply #772 on:** May 19, 2022, 10:22:39 am »

I got a set of spokes laced on a new rim and K0 hub, now to do the back before I forget how again. Then hit the truing stand. The diecast wants original type wheels although I'm not sure why.

Don R · « **Reply #773 on:** May 19, 2022, 12:07:24 pm »

I had a set of All Balls wheel bearings, so I used them, probably better than the old steel shielded bearings although they appear to have been changed at least once. I moved the center tube off to the side and knocked the old one out using a piece of 1/2" chrome moly tube and used the press to get the second one out.
There are a couple dings on the rear hub, I'm going to smooth them and call it a day. The parts stash I bought had a new bearing retainer for the rear, I'll try to thread it on with the tool I made a long time ago with a dose of anti-seize.

Don R · « **Reply #774 on:** May 21, 2022, 04:38:01 pm »

I was able to use the new bearing retainer that came with the drag bike purchase and the old to me two-hole hub cleaned up nicely, I got the wide front hub laced and almost trued, just a little more work on the offset and hop.
The rear set ended up with two bad spoke nipples, one not tapped enough and one that's too big. Stock nipples don't thread on so that sucks. So much for buying reproduction stuff. I'll likely end up buying another set.

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Author Topic: I've been K0'd! #4 was parted out, now getting parted in. (Read 116561 times)