Author Topic: Dry clutch on CB750 (Read 134674 times)

voxonda · « **Reply #125 on:** December 30, 2009, 01:25:38 AM »

Well it looks like we have solved the last issue's with the clutch, so now it's time to rebuild/assemble a engine.

If it wasn't for the snow and cold that stops me from going into my garage. My small heater can't hold up.

bucky katt · « **Reply #126 on:** December 30, 2009, 01:55:40 AM »

eat a big bowl of REALLY spicy chili or some other spicy food. keeps you nice and warm

wannabridin · « **Reply #127 on:** January 01, 2010, 02:40:34 PM »

so rob, last issues worked out huh?? this is great news!! well i can't wait to hear more updates!! happy new years man, cant wait to see what you have!!!

voxonda · « **Reply #128 on:** January 02, 2010, 11:28:12 AM »

Yes, looks like it! Collected the F2 bike this afternoon, so have to finish the engine and swift it. And then making km/miles with the clutch. All seems reasonable well so now we're thinking "slipper-clutch" for the real power making road racing engines.

Wish you all the best too!

Rob

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #129 on:** January 02, 2010, 04:13:57 PM »

Cool.I want one!

,Bill,Good job,way to be creative.

wannabridin · « **Reply #130 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:02:27 PM »

o MAN Rob, how i'd love to put those miles on the bike for you!!! i can't wait to hear for some updates!! any chance you found a more readily available clutch set? also, how about a nice machined debris guard to go on the outside to keep the big crap out? maybe a clear poly carbonate one, that'd be trick! or just stick with some machined Al... either way, that'd be a cool idea if you haven't thought of it! keep me posted!!! thanks again Rob, it's getting so close i can taste it!!!

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #131 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:18:31 PM »

Quote

also, how about a nice machined debris guard to go on the outside to keep the big crap out? maybe a clear poly carbonate one

Like these ones?

http://www.jokermachine.com/itemcafe2004.asp?ItemID=663&CategoryID=85&Placeholder=

Mick

wannabridin · « **Reply #132 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:25:36 PM »

BADASS!!!

damn, those are some TRICK pieces!!! i've never heard of that company until just now!! wow, i love that look, but i'd rather have something even more open to show off the part!! either way, that's badass... it's SO nice to know that someone is making uber trick parts after the old manufacturers!! guess Joker Machine will be getting a small, er, larger slot in the budget!

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #133 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:27:37 PM »

They have some nice stuff, i am going to use their black billet gas cap on my 1000cc cb project bike, may even use one of their clutch covers, they look pretty trick...

Mick

wannabridin · « **Reply #134 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:35:35 PM »

only problem with the clutch covers is no kick starter anymore... my deal is that i might switch over to kick only, but i dunno if i'll wanna deal with that with an 836... plus i dunno if the dry clutch will still work with the kick starter or not... but a starter delete would be nice to shave some major weight!

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #135 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:38:51 PM »

Quote from: wannabridin on January 02, 2010, 06:35:35 PM

only problem with the clutch covers is no kick starter anymore... my deal is that i might switch over to kick only, but i dunno if i'll wanna deal with that with an 836... plus i dunno if the dry clutch will still work with the kick starter or not... but a starter delete would be nice to shave some major weight!

I am seriously thinking of deleting the starter as well but on a higher compression 1000cc engine i may need bigger legs....

Those covers go on with the kick starter still there.

Mick

voxonda · « **Reply #136 on:** January 03, 2010, 01:20:44 AM »

Hey,

Sorry Mick, but you can't use these beautiful parts with a kickstart!

NOTE: These covers are not designed to retain the use of the stock kick-starter pedal. The use of our: p.n. 12-080 series Kick starter shaft cover is recommended when using this cover. (shown above)

Am in contact with Joker to sell some of their stuff here in Europe.

The dry clutch will work with the kickstart.

Rob

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #137 on:** January 03, 2010, 01:33:55 AM »

Quote from: voxonda on January 03, 2010, 01:20:44 AM

Hey,

Sorry Mick, but you can't use these beautiful parts with a kickstart!

NOTE: These covers are not designed to retain the use of the stock kick-starter pedal. The use of our: p.n. 12-080 series Kick starter shaft cover is recommended when using this cover. (shown above)

Am in contact with Joker to sell some of their stuff here in Europe.

The dry clutch will work with the kickstart.

Rob

Thanks Rob, i didn't see that..

Mick

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #138 on:** January 03, 2010, 10:26:39 AM »

Thanks for the link to Joker,just ordered tappet caps,fuel tank cap, and Ducati style clutch cover for Calendar Girl!

,Bill

wannabridin · « **Reply #139 on:** January 03, 2010, 10:48:34 AM »

Quote from: bellcow54 on January 03, 2010, 10:26:39 AM

Thanks for the link to Joker,just ordered tappet caps,fuel tank cap, and Ducati style clutch cover for Calendar Girl! ,Bill

def. show us how they look when you get them!!! just post a link to your build thread in here!!!

and Mick, you should just hit the gym! doesn't the quicker revving and decreased weight make it worth it for a 1000cc build?? just go do some squats, and you'll be FINE!!

hey rob, how about the clutch plates, are you still using the gixxer SE plates?

i was thinking of a clutch cover something like this:

754 · « **Reply #140 on:** January 03, 2010, 11:24:39 AM »

Keep in mind the 77/78 750 kicker sticks out further, maybe could wourk with some trimming?

I dont know why you guys think the dry clutch will sound like a Ducati..

Everybody knows its the sound of an open belt Harley chopper..

wannabridin · « **Reply #141 on:** January 03, 2010, 11:34:12 AM »

i just posted that video for the look of the clutch cover...

and i've heard dry clutches on bikes other than duc's before, and they all have a unique sound, but they all share the badass look and can of dimes sound... so i don't see why Rob's wouldn't sound similar! plus, it will help out with performance a bit, and make it really easy to change out plates and springs if needed!

voxonda · « **Reply #142 on:** January 03, 2010, 02:30:50 PM »

Quote from: wannabridin on January 03, 2010, 10:48:34 AM

hey rob, how about the clutch plates, are you still using the gixxer SE plates?

For starters, yes. Maybe later some kevlars. Tried to contact and ask Barnett for advice but to no availle, yet! First have to get that engine ready and have some miles on it to see how the clutch behaves.
A 'major setback' is that we wanted a clutch that could be switched on a engine in frame, but that does not work!

A bearing from the transmission mainshaft has to be changed.
About the 'sound' of the clutch, I do not know. Most of them have that rattle, but we will have to wait and see.

Rob

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #143 on:** January 03, 2010, 03:00:55 PM »

Hi Wannabridin, i only weigh around 145 pounds, no diet needed here....

and with all the extra weight i have stripped off her, that should be the last of my problems.....

Mick

wannabridin · « **Reply #144 on:** January 03, 2010, 06:01:52 PM »

whoa whoa whoa Rob, so we're going to have to take the motor out in order to change the clutch??? is there any way around this, or are you going to try and fix this? this could be a big deal for production... let me know! thanks again for the updates!

voxonda · « **Reply #145 on:** January 03, 2010, 11:27:54 PM »

'Problem' is the oil supply to the clutch thru the main primary shaft. We'll have to keep the oil from coming to the clutch! So this shaft has to be provided with another bearing and a oil stop bolt.
No problem when your engine is apart, but when it is good and running.....

?

It is just one of those setbacks that you have to keep in mind. There is another solution for this but that doesn't 'feel' good. I do not want problems afterwards. The package will provide bearings etc. It is like the Carillo's you will have to open up the engine, but once their in....

Rob

wannabridin · « **Reply #146 on:** January 04, 2010, 05:54:10 PM »

i see...

any theres nobody that makes bearings that can seal as well? i would guess not, i take it there's no other options for this are there? also, what do you think the life of the clutch would be compared to a stock one, at least with regular street driving, not too much hot rodding or heavy clutching?

but i do agree, i think the "wow" factor and the uniqueness outweigh the inconvenience of clutch swaps!!

754 · « **Reply #147 on:** January 04, 2010, 07:43:59 PM »

What he is saying is, you have to split the cases to install clutch kit (including bearing)..

Sooner or later ya gotta tear into it!.. suck it up..

evening job, once motor is out..

voxonda · « **Reply #148 on:** January 04, 2010, 11:08:16 PM »

In the main primary there are two needle bearings, the one on the clutch side has to be switched for one that has a sealing on that side to prevent the oil coming out thru the bearing. It is a stock bearing, but the oem do not need a sealing due to the wet clutch. You can't switch the bearings without open the cases. It will be provided in the kit, but that is all I can do. OR you have to ship your engine and I will do it for you.

Rob

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #149 on:** January 05, 2010, 12:08:05 AM »

Hi Rob, do i understand this correctly, once the conversion is done, the clutch plates can be changed with out removing the engine?

Mick

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Author Topic: Dry clutch on CB750 (Read 134674 times)